Rodders

I have since bought a bike elsewhere, purely because it was easier to get to and fit my requirements just as well. So, I'm no longer in the running to purchase the bike from [mention]goat[/mention]. If you've got the slightest interest in it, give him a shout, he's a sound geezer who gave me loads of advice in looking at the bike I did buy.

[mention]bonio[/mention] I saw that and drew the same conclusion. It's close enough to me that I might go just for the ride out. [mention]fq-craigus[/mention] what makes you keep going?!

http://www.springfieldsevents.co.uk/bikeshow/ Being new to the scene I have no idea if this is any good, but a few people I know in Peterborough are intending to go along again and say it is a good event. I might pop over as a good excuse to get some more miles on the new bike.

Silly question maybe. What security do you apply to your bike when stopping for fuel? Just the steering lock? Disc lock? Full chain to the fuel pump?

Just posting here to make it public that I'm interested in this bike. I've spoken to [mention]goat[/mention] via PM.

Cheers Stu. Do you carry yours when you're out and about? I think yours is the 12x45 chain, so a little lighter. If you don't need the full length of chain, are you able to put the padlock through a link that is in the middle of the chain?

Yo As I'm intending to buy my first bike imminently, I figured I should get some security sorted in preparation. This is for locking up at home, outside of my garden on a driveway which is visible to passers-by. I'm intending to sink a ground anchor in near my garden wall, and lean the bike over it before securing with a chain through the anchor and rear wheel. Question is, how long a chain do I need? I'm thinking of going for the Pewag 14x52 and i may decide to carry this with me if I'm taking the bike away too so the weight of it is important but I'm also aware that chains shouldn't be left trailing on the floor where they are easier to break with a sledgehammer. On that note, my floor is gravel so not a massive concern. I think 1.0m is too short, and 1.5m should be OK. Am I correct? Also, with such a chain, if I carry it on the bike when I need to lock up away from home, is it sensible to put it through the rear wheel then up and over the seat to keep it off the ground?

Some of the Squier models are exceptionally good quality. Likewise, some of the Fender range are poor. If you like your guitar, that's all that matters.

So many factors could be at play. I'm fairly sure you can get different radius necks on Telecasters, depending on country of origin and model. Neck width too will possibly vary meaning some have the strings closer together. And the neck itself could be chunky profile, or less chunky. I find them heavy and strangely balanced. I like the balance of a Les Paul, but they also kill my back. Ask a decent player you know to try it out and give you their view about what to rectify.

Cracking stuff, well done [mention]Kikesin[/mention]

As usual, my plans for a chilled evening and plenty of sleep after a long week of work, are ruined by a wife hell bent on getting us both drunk. I tried to avoid the wine by playing guitar, but my ability wasn't impressive enough so we've ended up playing Cards Against Humanity with teenagers and listening to their shite music. I should really stay sober and go out to buy a motorbike in the morning.

[mention]Jamieking86[/mention] Don't let these little setbacks stop you. I dropped the school bike (600cc Yamaha XJ6) on a roundabout in front of a queue of traffic. But I got back on, composed myself, and focused enough to get through the roundabout and back onto open road. I dropped it again later, on a quiet lane when doing emergency stop practise. 2 lessons later and I passed MOD2 with no riding faults! I'm going to guess that you're a bit tense on the bike - you are openly a bit nervous about riding, and tension will cause you to wobble more because you tend to over-correct and resist the flow of the bike. Stay positive. Next time you ride, see if you can loosen your shoulders up, then move off in a straight line and then deliberately sway your body left and right. It's amazing how stable these things are when they're moving. Build up that confidence in its natural (gyroscopic) stability and then you can use that to your advantage in corners. FWIW I'm no expert at this either, but you can overcome these minor issues. There's nothing significantly different about you that will stop you from being able to do it, just a few simple things to get straight and you'll be safe enough.

Of course they should take the empty home with them, it doesn't take up any more room than when they brought it full! But people are lazy. I saw a load in one place in London yesterday. Maybe those were laughing gas.

If they're on the road it could well be from a cyclist. We use them instead of a manual pump when doing roadside puncture repairs. They're small and light enough and save you a few minutes of effort.

That's understandable. Don't look at it as a test, is my advice. Of course, it IS a test, but I use psychology to get over that. Why are they asking you to do a swerve? Imagine a real life scenario. Put your head into that frame of mind, then gradually increase the severity of that situation until you are easily competent above the standard required. The standard isn't even very high - the swerve is only a tiny shimmy to one side. I used that same mentality for the whole MOD1 test. For MOD2, it's similar. You only have to demonstrate that you're a safe rider. The best tactic for this is to always arrive at a piece of road at the correct speed, gear and position, to be able to move onto the next piece. So, you plan ahead continuously. As a driving instructor I tried to get my students to assume they were always going to have to stop at any hazard situation. That way you will have to make the correct rearward observations, start slowing down, assume the correct position, then watch the situation develop. It's a very conscious process but it will keep you alive, and that will manifest as a very good demonstration of your skills on test day. The other thing is that the examiners aren't trying to catch you out. They're also motorcyclists themselves so there's a different vibe to a car test where there isn't the same community feeling. They want to see you enjoying your riding, being positive and looking after yourself.

With laces I just tuck them in. Either inside the ankle, or more securely under the zig zags on the front of the boot. I've also had a mishap with them before, but got away with it.

I passed a couple of weeks ago. I'm 39 and have driven since 17. I've never been into bikes until earlier this year. I did my CBT in July. In September I hired a 125 for a few hours to practise. Following week I did a 4 hour lesson on a 600cc. Instructor then booked my tests in for a few weeks later. I did one more 4 hour session, then had some practise on the day of MOD1. Passed MOD1 fairly easily. Did MOD2 the following week with only an hour of practise on the day. I got no riding faults, only a minor for answering a question wrong about pillion riders. I'd say 3 lessons is plenty of you've been riding on a 125 so much. It's all about making life easy for yourself - approach tricky stuff with caution, make the right observations early enough, set your speed, choose your gear etc. When the road is clear, don't hang about, just get up to speed and settle into focusing on the road ahead for trouble. Rinse and repeat. Good luck.

I bought some TCX X-Blend boots which I'm pretty happy with. Ankle protection, waterproof, reinforced gear change zone etc. There pretty comfy and look causal enough for walking around town or café/bar. At the time I bought them, Infinity Motorcycles suggested these as alternatives: "Spada Pilgrim Grande, the Falco Ranger, the Oxford Merton and the Belstaff Whitwood"

I'm afraid so, they are slightly different tests. I never did then for my car test because I'm that old! But it was easy enough so you'll be fine.

[mention]Jamieking86[/mention] Doing your CBT separately from DAS is completely normal. Most schools run courses that take you from zero to full licence in one bundle, but they will also happily tailor your training to suit your time and budget. I did my CBT first, then left it for a couple of months before booking a single lesson. After that they suggested going for my test later in the month, so I did. But there's no right or wrong way. Also, the school will most likely have their own bikes which you will do lessons and tests on. I'm sure you could use your own but getting it to the test centre will be tricky unless someone else rides it there.

You're a bit confused. Hopefully we can help clear that up. How old are you? If you're over 24 then you can do Direct Access Scheme (DAS). That is your CBT + Theory Test followed by MOD1 then MOD2. You can stop after the CBT but then you're restricted to a 125cc, L plates, and no pillion passenger. If you're under 24 you have to go through different stages based on engine sizes I think. I only learned this year and being 39 I went with DAS. As regards what you should do. Most say that after CBT you will want to try a big bike and then you'll want to go DAS. That's what happened with me. No point buying a 125 just for a few months. But you may prefer to do that

Tonight is Friday 8th I won't be able to come along to meet y'all, but see you on the roads next year.

I bought an Oxford Aqua B25 dry bag for my commute. It's plenty big enough for all my stuff, comfortable, and only £40 from Sportsbikeshop. Other colours are available. I went for visibility but they all have reflective stripes. https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/237723

Kudos [mention]megawatt[/mention]

Just had an email from MCN about this book they're selling. Seems like good value at £4.99. Anybody have any thoughts on it? https://www.greatmagazines.co.uk/mcn-specials/emcnespi/mcn-fixes