Breadsnapper

I have a 1998 CBR600. Recently she was laid up for 3 months. Changed plugs, cleaned carbs and put a new battery on. Anyway got her up and running and no issues or so I thought. She started coughing and spluttering as is there was dirt in the carbs. At one point wouldn't rev above 7k. Next time I ride her all was fine running wise but the Speedo and trip meter had stopped working. So the issue is when my Speedo works the bike runs dog rough. When the Speedo is not working all is fine and the engine runs perfectly.

It's as if something is pulling all the power when the Speedo is working.

Any ideas please. Cheers Dave

Have you checked all the fuses? Then check all the connections for corrosion. If it's not been looked after and left outside it's most likely corrosion. Also checks for physical damage to the wiring loom such as cuts in the cables.

Cheers sounds.like.i need to speed up a bit.

Cheers for that. I am no speed merchant and not a heavy breaker. I'll give them a try it's just weird how uneven the wear is

Dave

I put a new bt023 on the front of my bike about 3k miles ago and already it has squared off. However it has worn more on one side than the other and a grove has appeared on one side. So it looks very unevenly worn. I check tyre pressure twice a month and no issues there. The front shocks were services just after the tyre going on. I have spoken with the place I got the.tyre from and he's basically blamed my riding style. I don't do.motorway miles just general riding. Is it worth contacting Bridgestone direct and is is possible it's just a bad tyre.

Cheers

Dave

I nod to everyone, the way I see it is that whether you're on a 125, scooter or big bike we're all taking the same risks and enjoying two wheels.

Cheers for the replies still need to.find a way to get out the old bits that are rattling around.

 

Can you not take out the chain adjusters and fish the bits out?

I know it's a faf about but it may work

The retaining nut/sleeve has a collar on it and the rusty part of the screw is stuck in it. The hole simply isn't big enough. The box section where they're stuck is welded to the swing arm and fully enclosed.

Cheers for the replies still need to.find a way to get out the old bits that are rattling around.

A while ago I got a swingarm for my 98 CBR 600. Anyway the plan was to media blast it and powder coat it.

However, the collars/captive nuts that sit inside for the rubber chain guard to be secured to are inside the swingarm loose. Unfortunately they are larger than the holes and I cannot get them out.

I know it's possible but would it be safe to have a hole drilled into the swingarm to allow for the removal of the nuts and then have it welded up.

I could always get another swingarm but I could also end up with the same problem as invariably the screws are rusted badly due to their position.

Cheers

Dave

Cheers for all the replies it was a faulty rectifier. Particular thanks to [mention]WD-40[/mention] The link to the video that was posted is excellent, it is long but excellent and gives you the info in a very usable, understandable way.

Cheers

Dave.

I've explained it as best as I can, as simply as I can. If you're confused maybe wait for someone else and they can explain it in a way that makes sense to you.

Yeah cheers. I appreciate your patience. I was looking at it from resistance so the two open circuits I have from the rectifier were right and the one that shows there is resistance is faulty. What I need to do is run voltage across the circuit on the rectifier using the diode function on my meter. And test the stator which I haven't done. Think it's finally sunk in.

Again cheers

Dave.

Must be me but this is all so confusing. If the stator was bad then wouldn't the bike run poorly. As soon as I start it it is ok. As in no misfires, light all work etc. Surely if there wasn't enough current from the stator then the bike would.run poorly. Even when the battery was completely flat it bump started and ran fine.

Dave

Sorry if I've confused you but that is what I am seeing at the rectifier with it unplugged.

Dave

Cheers[mention]WD-40[/mention] I will give that ago like I said one yellow to 3 gives a reading so that would indicate a fault if I understand you correctly

Dave

Right, done some tests. Firstly battery is low charged and holding charge. Of I set my multi meter to ohm and test from each of the 3 pins that would have the the yellow wires connected to earth I get two that are OL and one that is 3k ohms. Ammi right in thinking that I shod.aee OL on all 3? And that this would identify as it being the rectifier? Also the battery is showing 13 volts when the bike is idling. Is this correct?

Cheers

Dave

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Dave

Hi everyone, hope all's well. Right then riding for about one and half hours stopped for a brew. Come to start bike up and it turned over very slow as if the battery was flat. After 3 attempts the battery was completely flat. Anyway bumped started it and ran fine for 10 mins then I noticed that the Speedo was all over the place. Couple of minutes later the bike died. Started with a bump again then ran fine for the 30 minute ride home.

Switched engine off and it was dead again.

The wiring connector to the rectifier looks like it's been getting very hot as it's scorched. Particularly the middle of pin the 3 yellow wires. The rectifier itself.look like it's been getting hot too and the plastic shroud again around the middle pin is a bit melted.

Before I can do any checks I am charging the battery which seems to be charging ok for now 11.9 V .081 Amps.

So what tests do I need to do to establish the fault.

Cheers in advance Dave

I am still riding as I work in the emergency services and have to go to work. I have to buy food so ride to the shop tonbuy said food and finally riding my bike is my exercise and good for my mental health.

Dave

So does the gear lever go up as if it's gone into 4th or does it not move or stays as if it's in 3rd.

Hi and welcome.

Have you checked the gear linkage is adjusted correctly?

When you go up to where 4th should be does the gear shifter move or will it not go up anymore? I had a similar problem with a lexmoto I had and the gear linkage had come loose.

Dave

No matter how bad a day it's been the ride home from work clears my mind. Chatting to like minded folk who you've never met before on a ride out. The fact that I know unless you've spent an absolute fortune you're car will never match the speed and sensation of riding 21 year old 1400 quid bike.

If the pictures are of very good quality then most forces will have some form of digital imaging where the picture is sent out to coos in the hope someone knows them and can formally Id them.

Update, cleaned all the connectors and applied wd40 and left it over night. This morning still wouldn't work. Before I left for work I took the fuse out and applied WD-40 to the fuse block. Now it's working again, so fingers crossed.

Thanks for all the replies and help

Dave.

@MrPickwick what manual are the diagrams.from? Seems a lot better than the Haynes one.

Dave

 

Yes matey ,it's from the USA one, I have the Haynes Manual but its always better to cross match with the USA one , Its on a PDF which I can PM to you , slight differences but they are only in the wiring , I find the USA one a little bit more comprehensive , give me a couple of minutes and I'll load up and send it to you

Cheers for that

Dave

[mention]MrPickwick[/mention] what manual are the diagrams.from? Seems a lot better than the Haynes one.

Dave