Pete

I agree, get some cheapy cheap summer ones! My gloves cost a fiver off the chap I bought the bike off! I've got winter ones from J&S that were £25! J&S has a 20% sale on at the moment, and my mate just bought some decent J&S own brand summer gloves for under £30.

Airing cupboard or radiator...but I doubt you'll have any radiators on at the moment! For future reference though if you do put them on a radiator, say in winter, then be careful not to dry the leather out too quickly or it might crack. Maybe you could just hang them on the washing line? If there air's dry enough that might work. Though it's damned humid where I am, so could just stay the same!

All Fred Flintstone-like? Only with less urgency.

I think it comes down to personal preference too. I personally ride with both my balls nestled resting on the pegs and just shift them when needed. However my uncle who's been riding for 40 years lets his balls hang by the side of the pegs and moves them across when needed. The benefit of balling the pegs compared to going balls deep NEXT to the pegs is that like Stu said, you can weight the pegs easier. This helps when going through bends as it makes steering lighter, or when on the track so most of your weight can be on your feet and making it easier to get that leg over knee down. However, for general road riding just do whatever comes naturally. You shouldn't mess with your balls, let them go where they feel comfiest. That said, don't rest your balls on the pedal. You can break unintentionally like you said, but also activate the brake light too...and it adds extra wear to everything...oh and you'll soon get pains in your shin from holding your foot in that position (all puns intended).

Wow that's the first I've heard of a visor cleaning service! I don't think I'd have the cojones in case someone took offence that I was manhandling their lid! The science part of spectacle wipes and LCD screen wipes is that the cleaning part is something called isopropanol (Iso-Propyl Alcohol, or Propan 2-ol). It's a type of alcohol and they use it to clean screens before they leave the factory. I've got some that I use that's 99% pure (the stuff you get in the shops is a lot less than that as it's watered down with distilled water) and works brilliantly. The great thing about it is that it evaporates pretty much as soon as you wipe it on (hence a streak free finish). I don't see why you couldn't use it on a visor. I got mine from ebay, it was under a fiver for a good sized bottle of the stuff - much cheaper than buying the watered down rubbish that never lasts! Here's a nice link to a listing on ebay I found for anyone that cares: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/IPA-ISOPROPYL-ALC ... 1|294%3A50

It certainly does! I'm not even careful with it, I mean it's not like I'm riding to get good fuel economy. Maybe I've just got a good un (55mpg out of a 600, yeeeeah!)

Anyone on this list actually going to go for a ride? I'm thinking about going to Aberystwyth (wow, spelt it all on my own!) in a few weeks praps...

I beat mine by 2.5mpg !!

Here's a link to the EDZ site for those that want it! http://www.edz.biz/bike/Product_pages/A ... layer.html

Depends what bike you ride... ! If it's a Honda that takes that throttle sleeve then you'll be fine. I wouldn't have thought you'd need a new sleeve thought to be honest, aren't they all made of plastic so can't shrink anyway?

That's what I did before fitting my heated grips. White spirit is the way forward! I've heard a few things work well, super glue and photo spray adhesive are the best ones. The thing is, if you take the grip off then it'll've stretched somewhat and there's no way back. So I'd have to go with what Stu said and just get some cheap ones (or get heated grips), then clean everything with white spirit and get it sorted. I spose it's something you want to get sorted sharpish. Annoying but also dangerous if you're pootling along at high speed and the throttle shuts off with traffic behind

Is there any power coming from the battery, does the starter motor turn/try and turn the engine over? If not then I'd have a look at the condition of the battery and check all connections from it first...

Makes them easier to fit as well if they've been on for a few minutes - nice and warm bendy rubber

Have you tried bump starting the sucka? Does it try and turn over at all? i.e. does it make a sound, or is it totally dead? If you manage to bump it then it could be starter motor related. Feed us more info ...

Police helmets (Shoei Multitec off the top of my head...)have grooves in the padding just so you can comfortably wear sunnies! Failing that I'd go with what Paul said about aviators. I got some from a shop just off Camden Market for £11.95 and they are the shit. They even have thin wire that goes round your ears so they don't move around when you're doing a loop the loop (so if you do come off you'll still look cool no matter how many times you tumble over!). They even come with a nice hard case to put them in. Here they are: Squadron HQ EDIT: I can also see where Dan is coming from as well. If you think you may be having to take the sun glasses off then hooked arms aren't great. The aviators are superb if you know you'll be leaving them on though.

Nice one kolw, glad you got it sorted in the end. Aren't bikes great for throwing money at?! By the way, a good tip for when you post on speed related threads (if you care for my two penneth) - don't admit to breaking the speed limit!!!!! Naughty boy!

Never come across it myself Dan, and sorry to hear that it's happened - I bet it's a right arse to get it all set up and discover that it's chaffed! I plugged mine in to check they both worked before going through the rigmaroll of carefully routing everything. Did you do the same? If so and they both worked OK but then didn't when you installed them then it's probably just a loose connection. If not then I guess it could still be a loose connection, or even like you say a faulty grip where the wire inside may have snapped . A couple of things are for sure if one works - it's not the fuse and they're definately connected to the battery OK so you can leave that bit alone!

Like akey said mate it could be any number of things. That it's going up to 16V is bad and my guess is that THAT problem would be the reg/rec (letting too much charge get to the battery). The problem about everything going totally off then everything on then normal sounds like when you first go to a bike and turn the ignition on, so THAT problem sounds like a loose connection to the dash somewhere (?), and with the speedo dying with lots of stuff going like the lights it sounds like something could be earthing or drawing too much power (my horn stopped working a while back because the lights were drawing too much). Electrical problems are a pain because it can be any one of a number of things (more than I've put here ) and unless you know what you're doing (not you personally, anyone really) it's best to get it to someone who can atleast diagnose it so you can fix it quickly (without spending days on it and getting nowhere).

There are a few things you can try, Bill. The first, like you said is to sand the top layer off to get them back to an even level, and that'll effectively give you another chance to bed them in. You could also try sanding a 45 degree angle on the leading edge of the pad to see if that makes a difference. And you're right about the copper slip on the back, the main area to pay attention to is where the piston(s) meets the back of the pads, as that's where the vibration happens. If the pins are rusty and all lumpy-like then you could try sanding them back to make them more smooth, or not bother and just buy some new ones - they're not too much (well, for a dealer anyway! I think mine were about 2 quid each!) Also check the anti-chatter shims if the brakes have any. Oh and what make are the pads? My rear ones are EBC HH Sintered and although they stop OK they squeek like bitches which is apparently a common problem. Sods.

Yipeeeee! Yes, blow that wad?!!?! !

Hello mate welcome to the forum. Sounds a lot like a problem with your clutch to me. If the gear is engaging and the bike isn't stalling then i'd guess at the clutch being constantly open. That'd also explain the no drive problem. First thing I'd check would be the clutch cable or if it's hydraulic check the fluid and make sure it's all working OK. you say it's an 09, surely it's still under warrenty? Can you not just save yourself the bother and get Hyosung to fix it for free?

Turning into a carpark! I did that on a pracice test and my intructor threw a right wobbly! I told him at the end "well mate you said to do exactly as the examiner asks, and you told me to go in there!". But he wasn't having it, tit! Well done Mr full licence man!

Here's a good article on how disc brakes work if you fancy reading up a bit more on them. There are a few good diagrams that show the brake layout (very simple), although on some of them the pad isn't touching the disc so isn't quite accurate but I think it's illustrating the lack of force when the brakes aren't applied. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-part ... -brake.htm The piston is the bit that's pushed along by the hydraulics in the brake lines. In turn the piston(s) pushes on the pads which press on the disc (from either side, like a hand gripping a piece of paper I guess). When pressure is released from the brake lever or brake pedal the piston will let some of the pressure off and move back into the caliper slightly, but only enough to stop the pads gripping the disc. If it moved back anymore then the pad would rattle around and open up a world of woes! Anyway, that's my very basic run down of it. That article's quite a good one if you fancy a bit of light reading.

Nice one Mark. Just think about your own riding and you'll do alright. You've got the hardest part out of the way now, and I hope the ride tomorrow is nice. The ride back after the test (pass or fail) is so nice! It's a brilliant feeling to have all the weight off your mind...if you do pass it's even better!

I'm not so sure it's a bad sign so would be inclined to disagree (at the moment) with what Dan's said. If the wheel is turning freely and the 'grinding' noise just sounds more like the pads are lightly brushing against the metal of the disc then it's nothing to worry about as the pads are constantly touching the disc, it's only when pressure is applied to them that stopping power comes in. If you sit on the bike with the engine off and wheel it forward and backward a few metres there should be a slight noise, nothing to worry about. But if it's a loud scratchy noise and like Dan says the disc is looking scratched (deep scratches, light ones are OK) then it could be that something has gotten trapped inbetween the pad and the disc so taking the pad out for inspection would be a good first move.