Pete

"...what is the wing speed velocity of a sparrow?" Surely you mean swallow, in which case..."African or European?"

Were you looking at this page?: http://www.dsa.gov.uk/Category.asp?cat=405 That's how I read it as well. I always thought that the practical test would be the off-road section first followed immediately by the on-road section, but it seems like that isn't the case. So to answer your questions (in case no one looks at the link above!): my question is it a 2 part test ? - yes. the off-road section first (module 1) looks at bike control at slower speeds and maneuvers. one part in test centre carpark ? the other out on the road ? - Not sure it'll be in the test centre car park. I'd imagine so, otherwise how would you get to the designated off-road site?! is this right ? and if it is how long does the 1st part last ? - It lasts 22 minutes. From what i have just read on the dsa site if i have read right ? you can pass the 1st part then do secound part on another day ? - It looks that way...contrary to what I thought before looking at that link! They give you a certificate to say you've passed the first module, which you then have to produce at the time of your second module. Doesn't say anything about same day/seperate day. Give them a call perhaps! Sorry I couldn't be of more help!

Was going to say exactly what WalneyFrankie said. My bike's got allen bolts on the wing mirrors and I had to get an allen socket to get them off and now they come off easily. Failing that (if they're really really really stuck) you could try an allen bit and put it in an impact driver.

Not sure if this is the sort of thing you're looking for: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-MOTORB ... 240%3A1318 I'm getting a set sometime next month (hopefully for my birthday if family decides to be kind!). They include a VOX function as well as PTT. I'm dubious about the 12km claim mind...

Halfords carb cleaner sounds like mighty powerful stuff! I think I'll use some!

Damn he's got a nice wife!

I'll see if I can get hold of one. Failing that I'll try and find a kidney dish or something!

Oh bum I see what you mean! A mate of mine had the same problem with a Honda Accord VTEC Type R car where they only produce a Haynes manual for the standard Accord. In the end he found an "official" service manual on ebay which was a disk that he got sent in the post. It's great because all you need to do is take your laptop out with you and work off that (with cling film over the keyboard!). Try searching on google for a service manual for your bike, or even try contacting Gilera to see what they say. There will definately be some sort of manual somewhere, even if it's not a Haynes one.

Cheers Frankie, that site's a bit of a gem!! Good idea about doing them one by one. I haven't looked inside them at all yet so I don't know what condition they're going to be in so I'm planning on having to replace all relevant parts and soak all metal bits in something just to play it safe.

I've decided to fill a day or two with giving my carbs a full on proper clean up on my Suzuki GSX600F - it should be a laugh. I've never attempted it before and the best I've done in the past is run some Redex through the tank, but as the bike's 10 years old and has covered just over 32,000 I thought I'd give it a good going over. I've got my trusty Haynes manual at hand, but before I begin (carefully) ripping things out I wanted to know if anyone has any hints or tips that could help me avoid any hold ups along the way. I understand that some of the seals/O-rings may need replacing and have been onto my local Suzuki dealer about getting hold of (everything times 4): - Float chamber rubber seal - Jet needle O-ring - Float needle valve seat O-ring - Float chamber rubber seal The thing is that I don't even know if I need them or not, that's just what Haynes says might need replacing. What're everyone's thoughts and experiences before I make a start on this one?

Just been having a look in my Haynes manual to see if can try and answer your last question but then thought better to take a copy out of the manual and post it up here (copyright)! However I've just realised from flicking through a few pages that the actual front brake light switch on my bike is situated on the underside of the master cylinder (metal cylindrical thing that brake lines go into, mine's aluminium), not inside the brake lever itself (that's just where the wiring connectors go). So, have a look between your front forks for the master cylinder and see if you can see the switch there. p.s. get a Haynes manual today, you'll love it!!

I had exactly the same problem with my rear brake and had to change the switch which was a right sod on my bike but pretty straight forward on others! Luckily for you it's on the front which if I'm right lives in the vacinity of the lever (not behind any of the bike's frame like my rear one!) so should be easy to get at. It's full name is the front brake switch or sometimes the front brake sensor. I tried to find an image of one but couldn't, sorry! Try looking in a Haynes manual. If you don't have a Haynes manual go to Halfords or similar and buy one - they're invaluable and the amount you save by doing it yourself instead of paying some mechanic to take tea breaks on your watch means it'll pay for itself!!

Paraffin's great to use on both O and X-ring chains. It's what Haynes recommends as it doesn't perish the seals

I've got Goodridge braided lines on my GSX600F and the feedback is much better than on standard lines. Speaking of speed bleeders, I 'invented' a method (I'm sure other people have done the same but I can't find any!) that uses a vacuum cleaner to create the pressure. Here's what you need: - Vacuum cleaner - GLASS jar (not plastic), with lid - About a metre of clear tubing (I used windscreen washer tubing) - Some brake fluid - Correct sized spanner for bleed nipple Make a hole in the top of the lid that you can get the vacuum hose through. Make another smaller hole next to it so you can get the clear tubing through (vacuum hose goes in about an inch, tubing goes all the way to the bottom). After putting both in you'll need to duct tape around the top to stop any air leaks, but before you do that make sure you put some brake fluid in the bottom. About an inch is enough (to stop air getting back in your line). Connect the hose up to the bleed nipple, turn the vacuum cleaner on to create pressure, open the bleed nipple with the spanner. The pressure created in the glass jar by the vacuum cleaner will suck the old fluid out of the lines nice and gently without the risk of damaging the O-rings in the master cylinder. Remember to keep topping up the reservoir though. Sorry if that's made my short answer into a long one! In answer to your question I personally think braided lines are better

Not sure how balancing the carbs will help stop the clutch rattling but if it's an old bike with no service history it's worth doing anyway! Unless we can see/hear the problem it's hard to diagnose it properly but it could be the clutch but could also be the cam chain tensioner (mine was running a bit loose a few weeks ago and after readjusting it's fine with no rattle anymore). Saying that the cam chain tensioner makes more of a fast ticking noise than a rattle. With my limited knowledge of clutches I can only say what causes clutch rattle on Ducatis (they use a dry clutch where no oil is present whereas most other bikes use a wet clutch which is covered in oil). In a clutch there are several 'plates' called clutch plates (!!) and they have friction patches on them that engage/disengage when you move the clutch lever on the handlebar. When you look at the plates they're round with a hole in the middle and large 'teeth' round the outside that lock into the basket (what the plates sit inside) and when the clutch is getting old or worn down the teeth can become worn away around the edges which can cause some movement hence the rattle. As the friction material wears down there is also movement between the individual plates which also adds to the rattle. You only really notice it a lot on Ducatis because there is no oil to deaden the sound of it. Incidentally have you checked you oil levels? I guess if your oil is low that could affect it. Sorry i couldn't be more direct with an answer! Perhaps someone else can have a go (and correct me if I'm wrong with any of my attempt).

I'd've been interested in that 125 meet! I only found this site today otherwise would have put myself on the list. I too ride a 600 but enjoy the slower/safer pace and only live in Redditch so would be well up for it in future.

I've always used the same sat nav that I use in my car. It's a Navman S30, I think you can get them for about £70 or less now. They're pretty thin actually and mine fits into the map pocket on my tank bag really well. I bought a 12V socket off ebay that I connected straight to my battery and I just plug the sat nav power lead into that for juice on the long journeys. It's also got a standard 3.5mm socket so you can use pretty much any headphones in there - I use Sony Ericsson in-ear buds that are really comfy and I can hear Mavis' directions as clear as day at ANY speed (I've got a Caberg Justissimo helmet by the way so wind noise can be bad at high speeds but the in-ear buds act like ear plugs too). I rode around London last weekend and it didn't miss a beat and for when I did need to briefly look down for directions I had them displayed in a list so it's easy to pick up on the next few upcoming ones.

Bit of an old post I know but thought I'd add my 2c for anyone else reading this article. To clean a chain I've read it's best to "use something with a high flash point", but don't use petrol because it will damage the X/O-rings inside the chain. Suggested cleaners are paraffin, kerosene, diesel and WD-40. I've used paraffin (had trouble finding it at first but discovered some in the gardening section at B&Q - used for patio heaters I guess?) and WD-40 in the past and have found that by far the best was the WD-40 - you just need to make sure you don't get any on the back tyre...Oh and remember to lube it up properly after (by going for a short run after cleaning to warm the chain up, then applying some descent chain lube). As for how to clean it, again it's generally thought that using a toothbrush is best, and it does work well but I've had superb results using an old electric toothbrush that I had lying around, coupled with said WD-40. I've ridden about 5,000 miles with my current chain and have only cleaned it twice and it still looks gleaming and brand new. That is probably mainly down to the Scottoiler, but a descent thorough clean every now and then (where you get rid of every single bit of crud) will certainly help keep your chain in tip top condition