Anthony

Turns out a bandit 12 is harder to tame then a 6 =>33BHP kit fitted =>Mixture reset =>Carburettors balanced =>Valves checked =>Serviced However: > Engine sounds like its deciding if it wants to drop a cylinder > Sounds rough, much like an old man would after smoking 50 a day I'm popping to garage tomorrow but want an idea of what could be wrong as i hate garage bullshit Regards Anthony

speed will sort that out, the faster you travel, the more force you will need to apply to the lever to get the same braking effect as you would at slow speeds

sorted thanks, just didnt look through my garage hard enough to find one that fits

i could if i knew the size, im guessing and as i mentioned the bandit tool dont fit so its stabbing in the dark until an old hand at it signs on lol thanks tho gary

cant use a spanner, the plugs are buried in the engine

I got a K2 Badit 1200 for xmas and im doing a service on it, however the tool supplied to remove the plugs is too small ( i think), does anybody know what size the hex is on the plug, so i can remove it:) any help would be good Cheers

i know what you ,mean, i always forget to throughly check how something works before i take it apart and then when it goes back together im unsure as to whether that is how its meant to work next time, check before hand then change and then check again, cant go wrong then (unless its wrong before)

double check the throttle cable, my bandit used to stick open if it was on full lock, could be that yours is similar

Your bike >>>> The dude who you bought it off>>>>> What you do to him

Could be a tiny spec of dust in the jet, clean it out again, really well and install an inline fuel filter, this might help as it will take the crap rather then your carb i'll have a think about any other ideas, in the meantime you could get a haynes manual and service it or at least check everything is in order

Well you have obv worked out what the problem is, and its a non charging battery, now if you found a haynes manual you could do some tests yourself to find the problem then take it to the garage and tell them what you have done, found and want doing, this is usually the best way, as it means they arent spending time looking for the problem, and as they say, time is money you could just charge the battery to stop it becoming useless and then get Honda to fix the problem or do it yourself

i'll check them, but i'll get a service sometime soon on them cos they were done a few thou miles ago, however i have changed oil loads of time since then so dont see why there will be a prob

I've got a bandit 6 and when its running i can hear a tap tap tap coming from the top of the engine, not loud but noticeable over my loud exhaust, i have put it down to valves :S yet i really don't have a definite ansa, the bike engine is working fine with the right oil and plugs are fine, could be the plugs sparking ??? but i suspect you have to same noise to me

First off, im ordering the part from a UK dealer for 40pounds, only place i found, second i have a manual, and as posted before it doesnt describe the use or possible fix of the worm screw assembly, and tbh the worm screw has massive play in it, and the bearings keep falling out which means they are worn, and as i have it apart and the money i might aswell put a new working part in there, if that doesnt fix it im in shit street and its a garage for me. i will try your explanation WF thankyou

so it should sit right back butted up to the holder, then it should twist out slightly when connected to the cable??

thanks, well my manual doesnt say anything bout angle etc, maybe it doent really want you to take it apart lol

i take it you got the haynes manual, if so, i have looking exactly like the SCREW ASSY CL RELEAS in the manual but it doesnt operate the clutch properly, should it be twisted right back into the holding thing or should it be untwisted a little, plus if you know how it works from pulling the lever to the disengaged engine it would help (in brief where needed, am technical minded tho ) then i might be able to work it out too cheers mate

tbh i was curious as it twisted, then cos i took the unit apart and didnt pay attention to how it came apart roughly how long does it take to fit, fix and get the clutch working, roughly speaking so i know what i should be expecting to pay????

one of the bearings was 3x smaller then the others and it was obv worn out or at least i think, i'll see what the garage sasy, and i'll get hold of that screw and nut

and i have used the manual and it just dont work, i think its the mechanical part that fell apart, i either didnt put it back together properly or its not in the right place to work i spent four hours trying to mend it

WOW thankyou, the bearings have had it in the lil unit thing so might replace it

FIXED with imagination, brain power, washers and a 12mm socket and ratchet

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/4979/58022836.jpg i decided to clean the sprocket cover and ended up taking apart (by accident) the mechanism that engages the clutch via the cable, not sure what it is called, i have put it back to normal as far as i can tell however the clutch now doesnt engage at all, i cant work it, so with this in mind i obv didnt put it back together properly and now i am going to take it to a garage so they can sort it out, now to the question, behind the black cover is a screw nut thing with a locking nut, it serves to push a pin into the gearbox???? where can i get one, it got damaged when my screwdriver slipped i have found this site but cant see the part http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorc ... 96/o/m6141, can anyone point it out???? thanks

so what are your idea WF?

yea, the spindle wasnt home, it obv didnt matter with the old discs cos they were thinner, however the new ones were thicker and caused an issue so the forks were made to sit further in, they were rebuilt early in the year with the recommended 10w oil i didnt think it was a rub due to it not happening all the time, they do bounce, and as far as i can tell they are fine when riding