Anthony

yea they sink but hold position for a second or two then sink, and it has the big spacer then nothing, however i believe thats normal as the axle has an area for the fork to clamp onto it, which is the area im on and if i put a spacer in there it wouldnt allow my calliper mounting to clear the disc and cause another problem.

Well as many of you might know I got new brakes, the rubbing i experienced was the fixed calliper mounting touching the disc, no damage was done but to fix this the mechanic moved the bottom of the forks inwards to clear the disc and mounting. Then the pinch bolts hold the fork movement in place, now when the pinch bolts aren't done up the fork doesn't really resist the move inwards however for the past day (modification took place two days ago) after the bike has been parked for a few mins the forks take two seconds to settle to normal operation, by that i mean they sit higher then normal (where they sit leant over) then they "collapse" to normal level now i think this is wrong, however the handling doesn't seem to be affected, and you have to leave the bike alone for a while for this to happen, otherwise it wont do it???? the forks have a slight bend near the top due to previous owner (found out after i serviced them) however its so small you cant see it and mechanics arent worried so my question is, does it sound like an internal metal rub/stick or the fluid moving or something, as this only happen after a while of sitting there???????? and if i got new forks would the problem still occur due to the small adjustment to let the brakes work???

well i dunno whats up, i think its exactly what i thought and some have suggested, its bedding in, or at least i hope it is will find out tomoro on way to school, hope it sorts out cos i got MOT after 3

i've done sillier things, but they are fine, they just rub slightly, just want it solved lol

but i know but still, shall i accept this rub as normal, tbh i havent ridden it far so cannot rule out that it will go ???

i got a year warranty on the discs so not fussed bout that lol, but obv i dot want binding brakes, however they were causing problems before i sanded them???? edit, i meant the tyre pressures

good idea thanks i think im gna take it for an MOT and ride at the same time and then test they seem to move in and out fine tho

they are perfect, done them the other day, aren't i good

it pushes however their is a slight need to put more effort in, the back doesn't rub as bad due to checking it off the ground and i can defo hear the front being the problem, is the rub normal cos i think it is but then again im not too sure :s ?

yea, as when i pulled the lever it was dead and retracted fully, so i had to pump the pistons out, i take it this is the same any ideas?

well they wanted 45 for new pads and I paid 214 for three new discs, wavy too but I don't have that much money to waste if my pads have more life in them

Just changed discs due to a MOT failure Bought off fleabay at 1430 and by 1100 the next day new discs were delivered for a great price would totally recommend sally's bike spares really fast service anyway, installed the new discs, all round, but kept old pads due to them having several thousands miles still in them sanded them to remove any bumps and installed them too now...... the brake pads and discs now rub, and I mean a light rub, something that you often hear on very close pads, they make moving the bike a little tricky on stones but they don't affect it too much under throttle. the discs get a little hot after a run up the road to test them, even when I don't use them :s the callipers had a re-haul recently and the pistons do move as I have checked and there is air in the reservoirs', the pads are shinning lines on the discs, obv were they are making contact, is this normal for new discs etc.???? and will the pads stop rubbing in say 10 miles etc. or is this a more serious problem, bearing in mind that the old discs and the same pads didn't rub at all Thanks

lets go have a drink now

your best idea was soaking them in WD-40, i did that on bolts that were seized on my bike and they came out with that and a Halfords socket set is it the two middle ones??

spend a good few hours cleaning properly like suggested above and after a while it will take only a quick wash for the bike to look amazing because it wont be that dirty and the worst of the muck has gone and only a light film is covering the bike

some people say tap the side of the carb which might release any stuck floats or its a case of taking it apart v.carefully to see if it is stuck (v. carefully so as not to unstick(sp) it and find nothing wrong) Or you could lube the throttle cable and check its not snagging on anything which could cause the red line effect

throttle cable on my bandit stuck if the wheel was turned either way and the throttle pulled, try findign where it sticks then give the cable a "mechanics wiggle" dunno bout speedo, check everything is its its proper place and no cables are snagged and key, talk to honda:)

if it dont have a fan, use the GF's hairdryer

ebay, local ad-trader garages will be too expensive

i did mine today and everytime i clean the bike i spray WD40 on the chain, one side at a time and clean all the dirt off with a rag, i then do the other side, then the bike is usually washed, if its not then i run the chain through a cloth to dry and finish cleaning the chain, by this time its all gold and sparkling i then start up the bike and starting from the visible side/near side, i spray castrol lube onto the chain (while in gear) i then do the seals and other face of the chain, making sure its covered with a thin layer of lube. goes from gold to white, looks like the shop floor ones Never had any rust or problems, no seized parts or over worn stretching, chain has been on there for over 3000 miles and has only been adjusted twice over a distance of less then 2mm

ebay

apply WD-40 on it every time you wash it as otherwise it will rust and break the key, on mine my key was bending due to the water seizing up the lock, however WD-40 solved my issue

aint got a clue, sorry for this post but least you know people are looking at the thread check the amount of fuel as it might not be getting enough under load???

Well starting from the obvious, there is something on the bike that isnt running << As bikes are small you aren't going to have to look far, start from basics, how does the engine run? its needs fuel, compression and a spark, are these present??? Then what will stop your bike from running when you first go to use it, kill switch, side stand, clutch lever, check these, are these working properly?? Now if all these are in the right working order then your bike will run, however I doubt they are as it would be running by now, so if I were you I'd start from the top of my list and work down, the main bit is if the engine is getting the three correct elements then it will start, use a manual to determine the correct compression figures and check if the plugs are wet when it wont start, this will determine that fuel is getting in the right place, then place your hand on each plug when its out and turn it over, only for a second, this will tell you if the engine is getting a spark. Then if its a fuel injected model it could be a case of compression, try a compression test, Halfords do a simple gauge that will help If any of the following isnt right then look in the haynes manual and use the problem bit at the back to sort it out Hope this helps If there is no spark my bet is on the pulse generator coils Regards Anthony

or its broken or seriously