gandy666

yes is oil cooled. apparently a GSXR 1100 will fit if I remove the centre stand and use hangers.

to clarify, the way the exhaust on this bike is set up, the silencers split into 2 and the half the collector box is welded onto the pipe - its not seperate, though if I new a welder they might be able to fix it. the biggest issue is that I dont have pots of money - would rather buy a second hand stainless if I can find one - though I'll keep it all original four into two if welding will fix it

hi mega are you saying 250 for the whole exhaust, or just the headers? tbh my biggest issue is the rotten collector box on the nearside - I have a set of headers sourced - in metal. if I had the offer of a complete stainless system I would take the whole lot, but if I can reuse what I have then metal will do.

east anglian - thanks for the response - much appreciated. My bike is a 1992 GSX 1100 G - a shaft drive - the e model will fit the headers but not the frame, plus there isn't enough clearance for the sump ( apparently). not a particularly common bike - quite unfashionable really - but I love it just the same

yer nexus dont do them any more. predator is about the only one I can find that is complete with headers

hi there I have the original exhaust on my 22 year old suzuki GSX1100g and the headers and collector box have rotted - the silencers are fine. Suzuki, in their eternal wisdom, decided to make the collector box and silencers as one part. I'm being quoted silly money for a replacement exhaust - does anyone know if any other bike exhaust will fit this not so common machine? struggling to weld the collector - its quite far gone - though maybe someone could cut out the old and somehow rebuild / replace it. I'm west lothian if anyone can suggest a pipe worker who could save it. or suggest an aftermarket exhaust less than 500 quid. thanks

any tips on protecting chrome \ metal work from all the salt thats going to be in the roads over the next few weeks. have posted earlier regarding my header pipes and getting them cleaned up. probably very little I can do about keeping the exhaust shiney due to the heat. however regarding engine casings. fork tubes, wheels etc - any suggestions on what I can do to prevent rust \ tarnish \ corrosion getting a hold? was thinking WD40 everywhere, or an slightly oil rag over all exposed metal work to give it a layer of protection. I had a CZ once where I coated the casings in a mixture of petrol and grease. that made a real mess and took forever to get off, so wont be doing that again. do you guys have any cunning tricks up your sleeve?

hi all using my bike in all weather, 500 miles a week and the headers are on the turn from shiney chrome to some rusty spots. any advise on the best way to clean them up - was going to use super fine steel wool and brasso but was thinking i might take the chrome plating off. then thought about autosol but its not really abrasive enough to get the rust off. also oxalic acid I could use, but it has to stay on for a while which is difficult to achieve on a smooth horizontal surface. dont want to leave it to get bad so would rather nip it in the bud. any of you guys have cunning methods you can share? cheers

sounds like you are more interested in how the bike looks as opposed to how it is mechanically. 15 quid for a solenoid on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... _PrefLoc=1. might cause all kinds of expensive wear and damage not replacing it. i'm sure the various forums out there can give you some guidance on how to fit. brush touch up the frame with hammerite or kurust - its dries black - couple of coats should do it. tbh i wouldn't be doing much paintwork with winter coming - if the bike is going to be left out over the winter (i'm assuming uncovered) - you'll prolly have to repaint. maybe invest in a cover - m and p are doing them for 20 quid just now - and forget the painting until spring.

yeah i guess so, tho I haven't had the bill yet. I snapped the big mounting bolt on the slave cylinder (which the mechanic dude was quite impressed by) and i was causing more damage than i was fixin, plus all those parts I didn't need. thought it was time to take it to an expert. some people will say I should have done this first, tho where's the fun in that.

for anyone still following this, it turned out to be the return hole into the master cylinder reservoir was blocked when the hydraulic fluid went off and turned to jelly, plus the master cylinder piston was not returning to rest properly to allow fluid back into the res, plus the friction plates were worn. so a combo

for anyone still following this, it turned out to be the return hole into the master cylinder reservoir was blocked when the hydraulic fluid went off and turned to jelly, plus the master cylinder piston was not returning to rest properly to allow fluid back into the res, plus the friction plates were worn. so a combo

for anyone still following this, it turned out to be the return hole into the master cylinder reservoir was blocked when the hydraulic fluid went off and turned to jelly, plus the master cylinder piston was not returning to rest properly to allow fluid back into the res, plus the friction plates were worn. so a combo

hmm, i haven't touched 5,6,6a or B, mainly because I needed some specialist tool to lock the clutch up to loosen 5. just went as far as swapping the plates and spacers out. if the springs dont fix it...

book doesn't mention threadlock, i'm just running out of ideas. looks like this: http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx1100-199 ... ml#results no locking washer, my clutch is exactly the same as the diagram and is torqued as per the manual. last thing to change are the springs - part no 15 - ordered them today. only slips once heated up, like 40 miles into a journey. have replaced all the 9's and 10's and put 10w40 part synth halfords oil. also bled the clutch after refitting everything. suppose the only thing it can be is them springs.

hi i have an ongoing saga regarding the slipping clutch on my GSX1100g. its a hydraulic unit with a diaphragm clutch. I've replaced the spacers and friction pads (probably unnecessarily), torqued the centre bolt up to 110 Nw (manual recommends 90 - 110 - still slipped at 100) and was ok for a day then started slipping again. I have new springs coming this week - not sure if the springs are meant to keep the centre bolt in place as well as squeezing the plates together, or to purely for the plates. If not designed to keep the bolt in place, I was going to use a drop of threadlock. anyone foresee a problem with this? i will be using it sparingly

RAC have recovered me 3 times on this - I know I'm pushin my luck. no i bought the friction and spacer plates separate - couldn't find a kit that included the pair of springs i needed - dome shaped. bike has done 18000 miles, was stored for a year and unused for a year, spring could have weakened in that time I guess. new springs ordered

was ok for a day and a half - slipping again. ordering replacement diaphragm springs but I am wondering if the centre nut is slipping under load. should the spring have enough tensile strength to keep it place or would adding a drop of threadlock to the nut thread only fix it? I appreciate the offer megawatt but i'm not sure i'll be back in time. i dont get back til about 7, later if I dont have the bike. has slipped on the way to work, i'm here now, and I dunno how long it'll take me to get back as it may need recovery. the rac love me

how tight was the chain after adjustment. maybe you got tight spots and it needs replaced

torqued centre nut up to 110 newtons and that seemed to fix it. ballpark is 90 to 110 and was setting it at 100. new plates and friction pads made little difference. also put in new oil. have a micrometer on order to check thickness of old plates / pads so prob have a spare clutch now, tho they were pretty worn. keeping an eye on it but I suppose the clutch diaphragm spring is tired. will be micrometering that as well and will replace if needed.

yes, the basket is fine. I have absoutely no dents on the plates - smooth as a babys bum - with the remains of some grid pattern. is a diaphragm clutch and the spring plates are fine as well. pretty sure the plates are just worn - i dont have a micrometer so cant measure

my clutch started slipping, i changed the friction plates, its still slipping. notice the steel spacers are extremely smooth - remains of some grid pattern for extra grip, but generally they are totally smooth. they are not blued, scrapped or bent at all. have checked the hydraulics, got the correct oil in the engine, rod is not sticking, its a shaft drive. bike is ok cold, warms up (about 40 miles in) starts to slip. should I have done the steel spacers when I changed the friction plates? should the steel spacers be slightly rough to give the friction pads something to bite into? cheers

friction plates arrived, soaked them in oil for 24 hours and fitted. brought the bike to work this morning and started slipping again, just as bad a before. Regarding the steel clutch spacers - should they be rough (so the friction pads have something to bite) or smooth as a babys bum? they are not blue, they are not bent, but they are very, very smooth smooth. I can see that if the oil was warmed up, this could be the problem.

not the rod. got the plates out - had to go buy a 50mm socket to shift the securing nut. w steels seem ok - no wear marks or blue ness. friction pads look a bit worn - black residue in the the clutch - must be pad wear. says in the manual the tolerance levels are 46.3mm plus on minus 0.4 mm at5kg - cant see how I would measure that unless i go out and spend another 30 quid on a micro measurement tool. can defo see that some of the pad squares are worn down - so will be changing them bad boys. no springs that i can see in this clutch - read somewhere its a diaphragm type. you can come off the edge of your seats now - will post some pics later on

I have 3 types of plates in my clutch. one that is steel one that is steel with rectangular pads on it - a broken circle one that is steel with an unbroken circle of pad like material on the insisde which ones are the friction pads - the 2 latter types?