WD-40

I'm surprised they're legal to wear. Clearly trying to make people think you're police

You most likely have a bad connection in the neutral switch or the wiring or connector going to it. When it's in neutral the switch is closed and that gives a path to ground for the starter relay and the neutral light. If there's a bad connection in the neutral switch, wiring or connector going to it the starter relay will lose it's ground and the starter won't spin. I'd check the connector going to it first, then the wiring, then the switch. You could also short the switch with a bit of wire into the connector going to it and see if that solves the problem. If it does then the problem is the switch. If you short the switch the bike will be able to start in gear so be careful with that.

You could take the can off and see if the noise goes away

Clutch slip wouldn't cause a scraping noise. All that does is when you're riding along and you give it some throttle the engine revs go up and there's no change in speed.

Well done on getting the Fazer, they're a great bike. Definitely not light but they are nimble. The only way to get your confidence up is more time in the saddle. If you're nervous you could go out when it's quiet and go at your own pace. Keep at it everyday and you're confidence will build. Or you could do a few lessons with an instructor that would help a lot too. Keep at it is the main thing don't give up. Everyone is nervous at the start. The only thing that could scrape the ground is the foot pegs. You would have to be going at a good pace to do that. Is there any chance you had your side stand down? The bike should turn off if the stand is down and it's is in gear but sometimes people bypass the side stand switch if it's giving trouble which mean you can ride off with the stand down, then when you lean into the first corner it hits the ground. You could test it by starting the bike, pull the clutch in, put it in first gear, then put the side stand down. The bike should cut out. If it does cut out the side stand safety is working.

I'm going to start doing this again from today. Week 1. Day 1. I'm reasonably fit so I'm going for category A. Which is 15 half press up, 15 side bend, 15 half squat, 12 dorsal, 10 burpee, 15 sit ups, 4 spot run.

Depends how bad it is. You could try to polish it out with some autosol metal polish.

If there's something that you like but the seat is a bit too high for your feet to touch the ground you can get lowering kits for some bikes and you can modify the seat to make it narrower and lower.

If that's the correct wiring diagram for your bike the wire you're looking for at the rear light is red. To test it with the multimeter put the meter on DC volts and put the red meter lead on the red wire and the black meter lead on battery negative. You should see 12V on the meter when the ignition is on and 0 when it's off. You could you that red to control a relay so the current for the sat nav isn't going through the lighting circuit. https://www.tiger1050.com/index.php?topic=35653.0

Nice one. I had a F3. Was a brilliant bike. I loved it. I'd get one again or maybe the newer model RR

Yeah it's not a service manual. It's a theory manual. Explains how everything works on a bike. Absolute goldmine of information.

Explains everything. Except how to ride it http://v4musclebike.com/articles/magnandy/Shop%20Manuals/Common%20Service%20Manual%20-%20March-2004.pdf If anyone knows any other good bike manuals stick them up

That's him. You can clearly see the increase in his core strength

Have you seen the state of this lot here? Just opening the f@cking PDF would be too much for them! haha

I'm not a big exercise person but I found this and I thought it was very good, it might be of use to others. It's a basic work out routine that anyone can do at home. No equipment required. It takes about 15 minutes to complete. You do it everyday for 10 weeks. Each week it gets a small bit harder. If you follow the instructions you can track your progress very well. I got a good increase in core strength from doing it. Have a look. https://csclub.uwaterloo.ca/~rfburger/royal-marine-commando-7-exercises.pdf

Are you sure you have a bike That's always the first thing on the list to check

Does it happen when the bike is stopped? Or does it only happen when moving? If it only happens when moving it could be a chain problem like seized links or knackered sprockets. You can feel that through the foot pegs too

You can get idle jets like in the picture. I guess you could call it an idle emulsion tube

That's the vent tube. Leave it on. If you're not using a battery either charge it something like once a month using a conventional charger. Or invest in an intelligent charger. I use CTEK chargers to maintain the bike batteries over the winter. They do a 0.8A bike specific one which I use on one bike. I have a 5.0A version which has a bike setting which I use on the other. You can get a remote lead which allows you to connect without needing to get at the battery. A very flat battery often won't take a charge off a conventional charger. It depends on the voltage the battery is at. If it's below 10v most chargers will just refuse to charge them. You need to input a very low amp (about 500Ma) for a couple of hours to bring them back to 12v before connecting the usual charger. But a battery left for 2 years will be toast. Batteries are really 6 batteries connected in series. So one cell always fails first and then the rest try to reverse charge it - then the whole lot is scrap. If you've got a battery and it's voltage is too low for the charger to come on. You can make the charger come on by connecting a second battery in parallel to the low voltage battery. Parallel means connect the two batteries positive to positive and negative to negative. Then connect the charger to one of the batteries and it will come on and start to charge both batteries. Leave it for a few minutes to bring up the voltage on the low battery, then disconnect everything. The voltage on the low battery will now be high enough for the charger to come on and you can charge it as normal.

Yeah take that off. It's blocking the vent on the battery. There's usually a rubber pipe in the battery box on the bike. That goes from battery box to ground. You attach that onto the battery.

If it's been crashed it would be smart to get a mechanic to give it a once over before you put money into it. Check for damaged frame or bent forks.

The best thing to do is go to a few different motorbike shops and sit on all the bikes. To get a real feel for a bike you have to ride it but if you're a learner you probably won't be allowed to do that. But sitting on them should give you an idea if they will work or not.

If he left it sitting for a couple of years without charging it the chances of it coming back and being a good reliable battery are very slim. Better to get a new one and look after it properly in my opinion.

I've explained it as best as I can, as simply as I can. If you're confused maybe wait for someone else and they can explain it in a way that makes sense to you.

Well obviously you'd have to kick it then and check if it's sparking.