WD-40

Is all oil not a water dispersent since oil and water don't mix?

Cant we just ask you? surely you should know haha Maybe I should have called myself 80-90W Gear Oil because that's what I use

You could email them and ask them if it damages o rings or not

If you look at the maintenance schedule in his manual it says the first service is at 1000km and it's just an oil and filter change. The valve clearance is first checked at 25600Km. His bike has shims. Maybe the older bike had tappets? They need adjustment more regularly than the newer style shims It was the 2016 Honda 500 engine I was looking at. It was one issue picked up in a lot of reviews that the first service included checking the valve clearances. My guess is they found none of them needed adjusting and it was proving unpopular so they've dropped it. This 250 manual is confirming what you're saying about checking the valve clearance. https://cdn.powersports.honda.com/documentum/MWOM/ml.remawmom.2016_31k17640_cmx250_rebel.pdf Check the valve clearance at 1000km and every 6000km after that. Seems a bit odd on a modern street bike.

There's only one way out of this......You'll have to fake your own death....Then get a sex change operation....Then cut off all contact with loved ones... Then go on the run and live out your days in a cabin in Siberia Or pay the 80 quid fine

Yes the order of the spark plugs is very important. If you had 3 and 4 the wrong way around the bike would only be running on cylinder 1 and 2. It might start or it might not but if it did start it would run terribly. Goes to show you have to rule out the simple things first.

Yeah I'm excited to get my rebel They are adding a ceramic coating for me, will this help re rust/damp? I've never changed oil myself but I suspect I can check the manual or youtube right? Re valve clearance, what is that exactly? Should I check this with the dealership in advance? Most engines need the valve clearances checking periodically. Usually it doesn't need doing until higher mileages but if I remember right the Honda 500 engine used to have a valve clearance check at the first service interval. Since it's fairly costly to have a dealer carry it out most buyers of new bikes haggled the cost of the first service into the purchase price. Worth checking. I don't know what the ceramic coating is being applied to but I'm sure it can't be the whole frame. Just give it a coat of ACF 50 and it will be fine. If you look at the maintenance schedule in his manual it says the first service is at 1000km and it's just an oil and filter change. The valve clearance is first checked at 25600Km. His bike has shims. Maybe the older bike had tappets? They need adjustment more regularly than the newer style shims

There's the owners manual https://cdn.powersports.honda.com/documentum/MWOM/ml.remawmom.2020_31mkga30_cmx500_rebel.pdf It recommends Pro Honda HP Chain Lube or equivalent http://prohondaoil.com/ I used spray lube cans in the past but they're high price and don't last very long. After going through a few cans I got sick of that and switched to 80-90W gear oil. Does a great job at protecting the chain. It's not for everyone though. You have to apply it more often than the spray lube and you have to apply the right amount or it will fling off. I brush it on once a week with an old toothbrush and that works for me.

Nice one. Good choice with the Honda Read through the owners manual. That will have the maintenance procedure in it. If it's brand new follow the break in procedure, it should also be in the owners manual. If you want to do your own maintenance read the workshop manual. That will have all the info you need. Luckily someone has put it up https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f_MYojSW9JdmVXzdx5xzXzLyKLkwIa6X/view

There's a few more Yamaha WR 125 Honda XL 125 Yamaha TDR 125 Kawasaki klr 125

Nice one. You said you had a low resistance reading on the HT lead? Did you take that measurement from the positive of the ignition coil to the spark plug cap like it shows in the manual on page 5-3? If you did and you got a lower resistance reading than expected I think that shows there is a short in the secondary side of the ignition coil. That would cause a weak spark or no spark. I think it happens because the insulation in the secondary coil fails so the coil touches off itself so the current has a shorter path to travel so less voltage is created at the spark plug. One more thing just in case someone finds this in the future. I think if you had a test light you could have tested if the CDI was working. Attach the clamp on the test light to battery negative and touch the other end of it to the output of the CDI which is W/Bl and the test light should flicker when the engine is turning over. That would show that the CDI is sending power to the ignition coil.

Is that it? https://acerbisb2b.co.uk/bikes/yamaha/wr-125-2t/2016.html The plastics that you've got look pretty good to me! The OEM fairings are usually better quality than the aftermarket ones

There's the manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/sx1whybr3rv7k64/DR125%20%26%20SP125%20Service%20Manual%201986-1988.pdf?dl=0 Shows the electrical system on page 5-1. It's the older CDI system with no reg/rec. I've never had one of them but it's just the stator, pick up coil, CDI, ignition coil, spark plug, kill switch and the connectors. You have probably already done it but you can check the resistance of the stator, pick up coil, ignition coil and compare it to the manual. Check for continuity and corrosion in the kill switch. Check all the ground connections. Check all the connectors and wiring for opens or high resistance. In my experience electrical faults are often just bad connections. If that all checks out ok I'd be thinking the CDI. Setting the timing is on page 3-57. On the stator you're looking for high resistance or a short to ground If you want a description of how a CDI system works have a look at page 23-5 of this manual https://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=72619

I'd start by checking for spark first just in case your testing has done something to stop it sparking. As tiggie said if you've got spark and you spray starting fluid into the engine you should get some signs of life. If you're not getting anything you could have lost spark To find out exactly what model you've got you could put your vin number into this parts site and it'll tell you https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/ There's the different models https://bikeswiki.com/Honda_CB600_Hornet I had a look for a pdf copy of the workshop manual but I can't find any. But there are factory workshop manuals and Haynes manuals for sale on ebay. A factory manual would be worth the investment if you're going to work on the bike yourself

No offense but if you can't tell the difference between a carb and fuel injection you should probably bring it to a mechanic

You have to be very careful shorting power straight to things especially the ECM. If you get the wire wrong you could blow it. There's no real need to do that. Have you got the Honda workshop manual with the wiring diagrams? That would help us diagnose the problem. In my experience a carb bike will run without the pump if you hook up an external fuel source and feed it straight into the carb. You could try doing that and see if it starts.

If it's the original Suzuki caliper it'll be on that Fowlers site. Click on it. On the left side click on Suzuki. Then find GSF-650 Bandit. Click on the year. Click on Front Caliper. That should be it

Is that the manual for your bike? If it is that'll show you what to do. https://enduro.team/ea/images/7/77/Gsf650s_2005.pdf You can buy OEM parts from Fowlers or you can use their site to find the part number you need and buy it somewhere else. https://fowlersparts.co.uk

Don't seperate them ! No need . That would just create a world of unnecessary hassle . Yeah I agree no need to do it. Haha sounds like you're enjoying yourself but don't celebrate until it's running sweet. That happiness can turn to misery if something goes wrong after all your hard work but that's all part of the fun of learning

You don't need to separate them to clean them. Keep them together. You're only creating more work and more potential problems for yourself if you separate them.

I don't think it would work because you would have to be a trained and qualified mechanic to charge people money. I'm not a mechanic. I've had no training I just fix my own problems and if I see someone with the same problem that I had in the past I tell them how I fixed it or what I would do to fix it. You have to keep in mind that the advice you get on a forum is just opinions from the general public, it's not a paid for professional service so it's all at your own risk. Once you pay a fee for a service it's a completely different.

Damn you work fast! The cylinders should be clear now. Seems like you're in good hands here so I'll just add when you're taking the bowls off the carbs make sure your screwdriver fits the screw very well. Those screws can be very tight if they haven't been off in a long time. You can round the heads very easily. If they start to round stop. If you can get a small vice grips on the head of the screw use that instead of the screwdriver to crack the screw free. The small vice grips will get them off without stripping them. That's what works for me anyway.

There's a Suzuki GN 125 manual. You could try contacting the manufacturer for the proper mad manual http://suzuki.com.pe/motos/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/GN125FSERVICEMANUAL.pdf

If I was you I'd take the carbs out, inspect the tip of the float needle and seat for wear. If they look ok given them a clean. You can clean the rest of the carb while you have it off. Put the carbs back together and test them on the bench by hooking up a fuel supply and see if they're still leaking. If the needle and seat is working the carb will fill up and there won't be any leaks. If they're still leaking buy new float needles.

Don't ride it if the oil light is staying on.