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polecat

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Posts posted by polecat

  1. I agree with the DIY route because even I managed to do a RECON on calipers and it turned out to be a very rewarding experience for me :cheers:


    Have to say getting the pistons out was a Pain in the ass but when they finally come out it is very satisfying !

  2. No need I heard someone actually looked at my thread and came rushing back :D



    In reply to the question .... The paint job was fantastic but unfortunately the paint was not !!


    The Undercoat was faulty and did not cure properly and after a long hot summer the top coat started to move and I ended up with a snake skin effect ... So I did what any self respecting Ex panel beater/spray painter would do and took it to a professional who charged me £400 to re-spray the whole lot in Mercedes metallic black :)


    Now it is like brand new .... To be honest inless you invest in the proper Equipment and buy proper paint then The paint job from a rattle can will never stand the test of time *apart from the old cellulose days.


    All my opinion of course ;)

  3. That's weird

    Just looked at the site and checked Mrs Polecat (with permission )


    she has :


    Vehicles you can provisionally drive


    Category : A

    Start date: 1 Nov 1978

    End date: 24 Oct 2031

    Image of category A vehicle Hide information


    Description


    You can drive any size motorbike, with or without a sidecar


    How is this possible when I thought there restrictions on provisional bike riders :shock:

  4. it could cause it to run either lean or rich


    rich isnt a problem apart from in the pocket you will use loads more fuel


    lean and it will run hot and at worse can put a hole in a piston!


    I would get it sorted as soon as


    carbs are really easy the hardest part is removing the screws off the float bowls

     


    Yeah I forgot to mention Bike getting Hot (without choke left on )

    7 mile trip and its smelling Hot

    Ok better go and break the bad news to my wallet Again :(


    Thanks for the advice :)

  5. sounds to me like you have shit in the carbs and the main jets are blocked


    sticking the choke on richens the mixture making it run right


    the first thing I would be doing is cleaning the carbs

     

    Doah that sounds expensive as it is not something I feel I would be able to achieve without stuffing it up even more :)


    Thanks Stu


    BTW is it bad for the bike if I leave the choke on to make it run right in the mean time ?

    It needs about 30% choke to start running right and is preferable to the vibrating bad running without it

  6. I know people think their bike problem is the only problem in the world but Mine really is !! :D


    YAMAHA FAZER FZS 600 13,000 miles


    OK my problem is :


    Bike gets to 3000 rpm - 4000 rpm and starts to bog down (running rough, feels a bit vibratey ?


    If I open up the throttle more the bike pulls out of the bog but still feels vibratey


    If it is bogging in 3000 rpm and I apply 50% choke then it will clear ?


    Been getting worse for a while but a few weeks ago she rode like new then it started up again ?


    What I have done so far :


    Changed Plugs, oil + Filter, Air filter, fuel filter and put some Sea foam in the tank .


    I Would appreciate any ideas why this has happened and what I need to do to sort it out Because the bike normally runs really well :crybaby:


    Any more info required just let me know :)

  7. Ow do.


    Just a quick note to say I apologise for sulking. I got told something that may have not been 100% accurate, and I said something in jest which did not go down very well although it was not intended to cause grief, and some stuff was said that probably didn't help etc etc etc yadda yadda.


    I have had a chat with Stu and we both agree it's not worth throwing toys about.


    Anyway. I'll come back if you'll have me. xxxxx


    :booty:

    A link to the Drama would have been nice for those of us who missed it then I could chastise you and then forgive you and move on but now I missed it all I feel I can never move on ....... sniff

    Anyways Welcome back to my fellow Fazer Owner (or has that gone too !!! I cant forgive you if it has :) )

     


    Fazer will never go! love the bike, on nearly 50k miles now, recently fitted a cam chain, shimmed it, clutch, new carb rubbers and coil packs and its running beautifully. Storm nearly went, its sorned atm because it has no discs still. everything else on it sorted so will get it on the road at some point.

    Blimey 50k I have a lot of catching up to do !! mines only done 12,047 I noticed today !!! not a lot for a 10 years !!

  8. Ow do.


    Just a quick note to say I apologise for sulking. I got told something that may have not been 100% accurate, and I said something in jest which did not go down very well although it was not intended to cause grief, and some stuff was said that probably didn't help etc etc etc yadda yadda.


    I have had a chat with Stu and we both agree it's not worth throwing toys about.


    Anyway. I'll come back if you'll have me. xxxxx


    :booty:

    A link to the Drama would have been nice for those of us who missed it then I could chastise you and then forgive you and move on but now I missed it all I feel I can never move on ....... sniff

    Anyways Welcome back to my fellow Fazer Owner (or has that gone too !!! I cant forgive you if it has :) )

  9. It is acting like it is immobilised as it turns over strong but no firing at all then suddenly it will start first touch of the button

     

    If it was acting as though it was immobilised it wouldn't turn over thats what the datatool alarm does :)

    Yes I have stopped blaming the Alarm now Stu, and its a stay of execution :D

    I read on Fazer owners club that sometimes a turn of the key can look like its working but when water gets down the key hole it can sometimes not make the complete contact to the ignition and will turn over but not fire which is what I think happened ?

    Cant wait for my ACF50 to arrive as I never had any problems when I was using that stuff :cheers:

  10. the reason why the alarm won't disarm in winter is that its gone in to sleep mode due to the battery getting too low this is to help prevent the battery getting too flat


    when it goes into sleep mode the alarm needs to be set off by turning the ignition on


    keeping it on a charger will solve this


    as for the shit starting I would look at replacing plugs first I can't see how it can be running too rich if nothing has been touched unless the choke is stuck but then when its warm it wouldn't run right at all


    also check out the battery if its been flat a few times it might have lost its oomph and not enough power to provide a decent spark

    I sprayed wd40 down the ignition overnight and it started for the first time first push of the button.

    I am convinced it is an electrical issue as all the plugs battery ect were replaced recently.

    It is acting like it is immobilised as it turns over strong but no firing at all then suddenly it will start first touch of the button !

    It is becoming a real pain as it has always been so dependable :roll:

    Spraying down the ignition key hole seems to have done the trick as the bike has been starting ok all day without problems

  11. the reason why the alarm won't disarm in winter is that its gone in to sleep mode due to the battery getting too low this is to help prevent the battery getting too flat


    when it goes into sleep mode the alarm needs to be set off by turning the ignition on


    keeping it on a charger will solve this


    as for the shit starting I would look at replacing plugs first I can't see how it can be running too rich if nothing has been touched unless the choke is stuck but then when its warm it wouldn't run right at all


    also check out the battery if its been flat a few times it might have lost its oomph and not enough power to provide a decent spark

    I sprayed wd40 down the ignition overnight and it started for the first time first push of the button.

    I am convinced it is an electrical issue as all the plugs battery ect were replaced recently.

    It is acting like it is immobilised as it turns over strong but no firing at all then suddenly it will start first touch of the button !

    It is becoming a real pain as it has always been so dependable :roll:

  12. sounds like it could be over fueling next time its cold tr it without choke and just a touch of throttle see if that makes any difference

    Thanks :)

    I rang the Motorbike engineer and he said the backfire is over fueling like you say but the lack of fireing is the kick stand switch and or the Datatool alarm playing up So I am going to arrange to have it removed and destroyed because it is a total pain in the ass especially in the winter when it eats my battery and the stupid fob wont disarm it !!!!

  13. A very reliable first push of the button Fazer normally, this morning The bike would not fire at all despite continued turning it over with and without choke ... I fiddled with all the things that may have micro switches and went through the gears with the engine off .

    After some time I tried again and with a backfire the bike started and ran normally

    Same happened when I tried to set off from the place I went to, ie. not firing then for no reason a while later it backfired then started and ran normally.

    What could be wrong with it ?

    last time I rode it was raining and working fine and I did put it away wet ....... it has a datol 2 alarm fitted which appears to be working fine ?

    Why would it not start then later start with a backfire ?

    Any help really appreciated :)

  14. Get yourself on some form of advanced riding course or do one of the Police Observed days. You will pick up some invaluable tips and your observation will be raised. You will be surprised how much difference it makes.

    That's the problem, on a CBT you can't book Bike Safe police course, I tried to book it a month after I passed but couldn't on a CBT. Only option I could find was paying for extra training, but with CamRider who i did CBT with they wanted £100 for a morning, so i didn't. I coulda really done with extra help.

    When I got back on the bike after my off I booked with Euro Rider for £60 for half hour at a friends recommendation to help with nerves. It helped, but the guy told me not to worry about countersteering and didn't give much more help than "you just need to put the miles in".

    Most help I had with my cornering issues is from following advice on this lovely forum, putting the miles in, and my pillion rides and ride alongs with TMBF

    I never will understand why the Police don't run a course for learners

    I even asked the MPC who runs one and he was not sure either !!

  15. Get a bike nobody would want to steal .........not ideal because you most likely wont want to ride it

    Get alarmed disc locks and a short chain to ground anchor............bit expensive

    Remove seat at night to make it difficult to ride away ............. not proven

    Park in a well lit area with CCTV ................perhaps not possible

    Park bike in such a way as to make it difficult to remove with a standard disc lock fitted .......standard good practice

    Park bike In friends garage and pay him a fiver a month or something............may not have any friends

    fit a secret immobilizer nobody would find ......................................May be beyond technical skills


    What ever you do to make it hard work to steal will most likely encourage the casual thief to look for an easier target so think like a thief.

    If someone really wants YOUR bike they will get it ........that's what insurance is for :cheers:

  16. Hello all, new to here. I too am restoring a 1977 honda cb250 t . I have the bike stripped down now - except for the centre stand . It seems quite rusted on - although it swings ,i cannot find out how to remove it ! The haynes manual does not explain how it comes apart. Do any of you more experienced restores know about its removal ? Any help welcome. Thanks.

    It is far better to leave the centre stand in place as there is a nut inside that the long bolt attaches to and this comes away from the frame and makes it virtually impossible but if free swinging then just restore it as part of the frame as I did it comes up a treat just the same :)

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