supersapien

alright buddy? You won't find a manual for it.

The gn125 is similar but you'd be better off with a gs125 manual. Engine is the same,as is all the body work (well,practically)

if you need any more help,lemme know. I got the same bike

sorry guys,i had a TWO sugars in my coffee this morning some of ya got what i mean

kryptonite evo 3 ( or 4 i think they have out now) and put it on ya rear sprocket instead of the disc. go for something hidiously bright,cos chicks love that sh!t

Does anyone know of a way of filtering the ultrasonic cleaning fluid. i understand that the sound waves can't travel through fluid that's filled with dirt and rust as well as it can through clean fluid, but it seems a waste to just throw it away. i'm wondering if trying to pass it through a oil filter will do any good? if so, any ideas of what oil filter is the best or if anyone has any other ideas

1 part mechanical 2 parts magic?

LMFAO walneyfrankie

yeh i agree,never heard of a washer making a belt go faster. heard of a washer being put into a carb to restrict the fuel flow, but i dunno if that's true either ( my friends are often full of shit, mostly when i dissagree with them )

also a slightly faster moped does some what make me think of the polished turd saying

well firstly welcome to the world of biking

as for warming i up, there isn't really a set time, each bike (size,make,model,age) all have their own min time for warming up. really you'll have to find out ya self, but a couple of mins should do it. my friend starts his and lets it run while he has his morning fag. i only let mine run while i put my helmet and gloves on and walk it through the gate,by the time i done all that it's ready to go (colder mornings mine needs a while longer)

as for the "clunk/thud" do you mean it's backfiring? it won't sound like a car backfire

if it is that, it could be you're bike is running to rich ( too much petrol, not enough air) remove a spark plug if it's fouled. and check ya air filter box (i'm assuming you've got a standard box,not a pod) for obstructions. if the air filter is clean, there is a air/fuel mix screw on ya carb, make a tiny adjustment ( like 1/8th ) and write it down on some paper and put it in ya owners manual or log book or something, just so you know how much to take it back to what it was originally at, if you ever need to

if it's no that, it could be a worn exhaust valve. there's a guy on here called walneyfranky ( or something like that) he'd be best to talk to about that

i had a similar problem on my suzuki. turned out the rubber inlet manifold had a crack in it. was letting too much air in it. happened randomly dependant on temp as the rubber expanded and shrank

if you got too long to wait, why not take the spark plug out of the other side and try it now, if it's gone you can start making plans to get a helicoil.

yep! probably caused by gone off fuel!

it goes all sticky and horrible!

oh god,don't it just. like boat varnish

did you have the petrol tap turned off when you left it to stand? if not, clean ya carb like everyone is saying and check ya fuel filter

a blue suzuki en125 jase

though most people recognise me from my backpack ( boblbee )

i think i'll take part in this ride

i live in just out side newborough ! do you know how many people are going? is it a get to boston and come back kinda deal or is there a rally there?

well "screwed" has more levels than people think. it might be reversable so you might not wanna screw it more.

i'm not 100% sure,but i'd imagine that,yes, you could screw up other things. as i said, depends what part of ya clutch is a problem,it might screw up other parts. IF the entire clutch assembly needs replacing,then i'd say go for it screw away

air filter and connectors not worn?

what riding are you doing in this 3/4 ? cruising slowly? accelerating?

when it dies on ya, does it die sudden or cough kick splutter then die kinda thing?

check to make sure all the inlet manifolds are good. if they're rubber, the weight of the carb could have stretched them

WalneyFrankie is right thought, if it's close to it's limit,it's rubbing or you just feel it's dangerous then swap it out, not worth the risk. if it's not it's you're call. as i said,i think mine is out more than yours and mines been no issue at all

but,any idea what caused it? or you might be finding ya self in the same situation again in 6 months time

yep, you was right. took it too a garage and they put it in a pressure vice and popped it out in seconds. serviced the entire wheel and swing arm and it's all back together and freed up now. just goes to prove,no matter what ya skill level. you some times really do need the right tool

thanks for your help guys

how do i delete this thread now?

you don't HAVE to change it.

it can be caused by the brakes being locked on and the bike falling, or going from hot to cold too fast ( the discs warp)

i would imagine most bikes have it to a certain degree

i think mine's nearer 5 i win!

depends on the bike you have, it means the disc isn't perfectly flat any more.replacing the disc would remove the problem. my bike's got more run out than that. it's not a big problem. unless you can hear ya brakes grinding on the disc as you push it

yep,tried that. me using a crowbar, a friend hitting it with a hammer. tried screwing it and ppushing and pulling. covered everything in wd40 (the dog included) it just won't budge.

(which reminds me,what's best for getting wd40 off tyres? lol)

ok got the new bearing. i've removed the swing arm with the wheel still in it. i've been wailing on the axle with a rubber mallet and it's not moving ( maybe a tiny tiny bit or i could just be being hopeful) theaxle now spins as long as the drum brake is moving, but the second ya hold the drum still, the axle won't turn. still think it's the bearing, anyway body want to come work out some anger issues on it?

seriously,do i just wail on it some more?

just take a hole cutter to the one ya have instant sound

i thought about doing something similar,but really, even the great god of ebay doesn't have REALLY cheap 4stroke exhausts. the money would be much better if put towards a bike that's already loud

lol a lake....now you mention it

thanks for the idea about the axle anyway,sadly dropping the swing arm only just makes the axle hittable and it's still not moving,think i might look into taking the entire swing arm out,grab a hammer and take a run up

so do you think it's the bearing too? would it not be a problem at any speed ?

and how come's the axles' not moving but the wheel spins free?

also what's the worst problem that'll happen if it's not sorted out? locking rear wheel?

125 bike friendly or would you rather pass on that option

(not being a arse but i'd rather ya be honest than get bored and bugger off at some point )

Also is this via the kings lynn round-about? I've not once done that bast*rd thing the correct way

hey all

I currently have a problem. The last few days i've been noticing my bike feel like it's tugging when at speed. The only time i felt anything like it was last winter when my intake manifold had a crack in it. The bike would jerk cut out. But this time the revs aren't dropping. My chain was fairly slack so i though the bouncing of the chain was steeling the drive power maybe (or that might be impossible, phucked if i know) so i went to tighten it. I undid the axle locking nut, took it completely off to give it a wd-40 scrub,then went to turn the axle and it would not budge at all, after giving the spanner a lumping with a hammer it turns, but never gets any freer. I've tried knocking the axle out with a hammer but the exhaust is in the way. The tugging only happens when at high speed and when revs are stable (not climbing or falling). My guess is bearings? Does anyone know if i'm right AND a way to get the axle out?

Bike's a suzuki en125

And while i'm here,why would my drug brake have water in it?