RubyBones

Cheers dude, had to read it a few times but I feel much better now actually haha thank you my first experience with “look over functionality” …..I’ll soon learn my lesson

Hey wonderfully people. Apologies if this is the wrong section to post this. I recently bought a 2011 iron 883, as some will know they come with 3.3 galling tank as stock. I bought off a dealership/shop and I thought it maybe had a tank change to a smaller 2.1 tank (like the 48) or so I thought. However, it would seem I am getting only 70miles if that approx out of a tank. Fuel light comes on about 65-70 miles max and within another 5-8 the bike is struggling (as in fuel running out) so I fill up and it’s only letting me put 5.1 litres in each time. I can see literally see the fuel at the top of the tank and would definitely not get anymore fuel in it. So that converts to about 1.1 gallon which I cannot believe, I’ve never heard of a tank that small and the tank certainlydoesn’t look it. what am I missing/doing wrong, any advice welcome?

Hey wonderfully people. Apologies if this is the wrong section to post this. I recently bought a 2011 iron 883, as some will know they come with 3.3 galling tank as stock. I bought off a dealership/shop and I thought it maybe had a tank change to a smaller 2.1 tank (like the 48) or so I thought. However, it would seem I am getting only 70miles if that approx out of a tank. Fuel light comes on about 65-70 miles max and within another 5-8 the bike is struggling (as in fuel running out) so I fill up and it’s only letting me put 5.1 litres in each time. I can see literally see the fuel at the top of the tank and would definitely not get anymore fuel in it. So that converts to about 1.1 gallon which I cannot believe, I’ve never heard of a tank that small and the tank certainly doesn’t look it. what am I missing/doing wrong, any advice welcome?

Hey all, Thanks in advance. I’ve been having all sorts of issues recently. But finally got the bike starting after some tinkering. however, bike cuts out (like it getting too much air) whenever I give any throttle. naturally thought air leak maybe, as bike was hunting for idle and intake boot from carb was a little worse for wear. Ended up sticking new carb on altogether, new intake boot, new air filter (as all needed anyway) but still no joy. (It’s always had a pod filter on it for years and run fine just heads up) have checked exhaust/gasket for possible leak but struggling to indenting if could be an air leak there? Is there an east way to tell if leak from exhaust gasket? I have tinkered tirelessly and tuned to finally get it running and almost idling ok, still hunting a little bit, but I still have the issues where give it any throttle too quick or past 3000 RpM the just cuts out. Just Not sure what else I can try without taking it the shop. If anybody can make any suggestions I’d appreciate it thank you

Cheers @iangaryprice appreciate the response Good point, I had considered if the kills switch would be a caveat to swapping out to stand alone but was unsure, good to know. I’ve just purchased a couple of new tubes to try and when one fits I’ll just add some nice new grips I think. Keep things nice and simple without messing with the switch gear clam

Evening all, me again with yet another likely stupid question but if you don’t ask you don’t get haha Trying to swap out the throttle and grips on my Suzuki gz125. (It’s got these horrible cheesy iron cross plastic grips on it) removal all fine Question 1. Are throttle tubes universal? And by this I mean yes of course size wise is fine I just need 7/8 tube, but Can I fit any standard 7/8 tube into the existing switch gear assy? Picture 1. This is the existing one! Picture 2. is what I’d like to replace it with (with or with out the grip) is the one in picture 2 compatible, as the ends that connect into the switch gear on some all like ever so slightly different Question 2. Was also thinking instead I might just remove from the switch assy and add into a standalone Throttle casing (like in picture 3) and would love to know it it would be compatible. (My throttle cable end has not screw in/ thread connection. Would this matter love any thoughts or advice. Thank you

That’s all, a few great tips to get me checking things and getting stuck in to the bike. After some further checks I found out my carb intake boot is cracked and causing air leak which naturally I’m assuming is either the cause of or adding to the issue/s as well. Will check all the above and see how I get on thanks all. So glad I joined the forum

Sadly no I didn’t. Which I can see was a huge error. Good shout thank you. I’ll check the battery and go from there. also I’ll have a play around with the choke as it’s my first winter with this bike so yes could certainly be a need to find it’s winter starting needs thank you

Evening all, bike was running like a dream, starts every time on the button, no choke needed at all….ever. hadn’t ridden for nearly 3 weeks (weather) and suddenly bike won’t start unless choke fully out and also engine cuts whenever choke put back in. also ever 3 or so times I try to start it, starter switch won’t even do anything. have: - checked/cleaned fuel lines - checked/cleaned petcock - removed carb, cleaned and checked jets carb back on but no change. thought might be air leak as intake manifold boot looks a bit cracked and old but I would have thought bike would turn over but just have high revs due to getting lean mixture? next steps or help or advice welcomed thanks all

None taken @fastbob and I appreciate the honesty. That being said, out of interest, the variables being? How does one educate them selves on this sort of thing. Even if I took it to a shop to do (where I would hope I could trust them) My interested are more so In having the knowledge of what is required, what the variables to consider over actually making any changes my self?

Morning All, beautiful morning for a ride in the south. Hope you all get out today for Sunday cruise. quick query from a newbie, may be a stupid question....but! Q. Can I fit any cruiser style wheel on my gz125. It’s a 1998 and has a 16” front rim 110/90-16” but I really don’t like this small front wheel size and want to put some like an 18” front rim on. Something like a virago front wheel which I think are 80/100-18” How does it work, can I just remove the front disk brake and wheel and swap in a new one from another bike and fit my current gz brake disk to new wheel. Or do I need to remove the whole wheel and disc brake and use the disc on the new wheel? will it even fit my front axle/tube width, what considerations do I need to make? thanks I’m advance

Thanks also @bonio Great stuff to hear.

Can’t Thank you enough @Mississippi Bullfrogand @Bianco2564 , exactly what I needed to hear. So glad I joined the forum

Sure thing. Thanks for having me. Love bikes, always wanted to ride, finally got the chance. would love to build my own bike one day, love 80’s early 90’s sporters and would love to build around early 80’s iron frame (without the iron head haha) but yea, got my self a nice 1998 Suzuki gz125. Running well just trying to learn as much as I can, starting to feel clueless. based in Brighton Sussex so plenty of beautiful Sussex roads to get riding on and explore

Hi all, I’m new to it all and thought I had an idea what I was doing but it al seems a little overwhelming now since getting my first bike. bought myself a nice little gz125 Suzuki marauder. Been running since I got it beautifully and got me back 3 on my first ride 3 hours from pick up to home. Bike has been starting in the button every time, however I have been starting the bike with the choke closed. It’s not been cold so didn’t think I had to even when not used for few days. No issues so far, but someone said I should be starting the bike from cold every time with the choke open. So I tried but when j start the bike with choke fully open (basic pull/push choke) the revs are high, not dangerously high but way above normal idle and it doesn’t seems to settle down either. 1st questions, is this Normal, due to the air intake from having the choke open and should just be waiting few mins and then riding the bike with the high revs and then closing the choke shortly after. Or am I looking at possible vacuum leak in the carb boots maybe 2nd question is, after starting the bike with the choke open I went for ride and the for first time ever, twice when I hit around 45mph, bike started jerking and loosing power before loosing all power. pulled over and started bikes again no issues and off I went. is this related or could this be something else? I thought maybe I’d be an idiot and not fuelled up so switched to reserve. Seemed to be fuel in the tank in either side so could not imagine was the case can anyone help/advise Question 3. do I need to/should I try adjusting idle speed while choke open to bring down the revs or is idle speed only to be adjusted with choke closed? If to be done when open surely this will drop the revs to below idle and likely cut engine when i close the choke? sorry for so many questions, just so little info I can find out there thanks everyone