Turbodave

Glad all went well for you mate! I think the last time I used a helicoil was on a Transit Engine, snapped Stud as well. I usually leave a thin bit material in the thread after drilling and try an "easy out" to remove that or chap it away from the threads with a hammer and pick/small screwdriver. This leaves the threads intact. The last thing I had siezed was Caliper Pins, I just bought a new Caliper but I will remove those pins in my own sweet time.

Obviously no one has replied coz no one knows about the Derbi Senda. Is yours a 50 SM for on the road or do you have knobblies on and using it off road? You still have to run Pistons in Lad! 500 miles or it'll heat sieze. I know it's a pain in the butt going slow for even 200 miles but I had to do it every 3 months with my '88 Honda NS125F . I think those bikes are designed to do 14 laps of a track ,then cool down. On the road it's virtually flat out all the time. So have you taken the electronically controlled carb off and put a manual carb on? I don't know about needle sizes or whether you have to go to a bigger size ,but I've heard when you use a bigger size the cold fuel coming in cools the head as well. If it's just heat siezed,it will run again once it's cooled and just keep the revs low until it's run in.

Thanks Hawkeye , I've got them all working , the new indicator I was trying to fit on the back left was faulty. I just fitted another new one and all was working.

The most Gurty motorcycle in history,in my opinion, is the Britten V1000 ,looked wrong but was so right. Wasn't able to attach a photo so y'all will have to Google it. Best of luck with the build Cuti!

You should buy a Haynes Manual and do it in your Garage. If you're changing the whole engine it'll be quicker than changing parts of it. You'll need a pal to help lift the engine out with you. I do a car engine swap in 2 days ,just so I don't make mistakes,one day out - one day in. A bike engine is alot easier, you'll only be disconnecting controls, throttle cable, clutch cable, HT leads,fuel lines and chain then take bolts out the mounts and lift it out. I see 40 people have read this and no replies , that's coz you actually want to physically meet people or someone to do the job for you, that's what your friends n family are for or a local Garage Servicing Business. I'm miles away in Scotland so I'm not coming to do it for you but this job isn't beyond you and you'll feel like a total Hero if you do it yourself.

I'm not English so I have to Google Convivial!

Thanks guys, I don't know about you but I love hearing other people's experiences, I think I've already warmed to this Forum Site. How have you found it? Helpful and friendly?

Hi guys, I was fitting new indicators to a 2020 Bullit Hero 125 coz the both rear ones were damaged. I replaced the rear right-hand one ,the front right flashed but the back didn't,so I swapped the wires on the rear , great the right side works perfectly. Did the same on the left ,the front one flashes but the rear didn't so I swapped the rear wires around and Oh! The front one doesn't flash anymore. "Maybe this left rear is faulty" so I take another new indicator and wire it to the back left, no joy, switch the wires over, no joy. I check the right-hand side again,damn, it's not working. I pull and check all fuses,all ok. I check ,taillight,brake light,horn all still working,I start the bike,battery still strong. It was LED indicators already on the bike so I don't think I need to change a relay coz I'm installing new LED indicators. What could be wrong?

I shouldn't have first day nerves coz I'm as old as the Hills. I'm on here for Electrical Advice but I'll answer as many other unresolved stuff I come across if I can. Safe riding in 2023!

I was only out on it coz the Customer wanted it Delivered.

I fell on ice on Hogmanay, no damage to the bike coz my leg and engine bars kept it off the tarmac until I tried lifting the bike...both tyres slid away and the bike landed on the rear indicator ,whilst I shuffled like Bambi. Worst of it is ,I was on my way to deliver the 2019 Renegade 125 Sport to it's buyer. I told him all and knocked £50 off ,which he was happy with. So if you're gonna crash ,get your body between the bike and the road!

Well it's 2023! Happy New Year! Many people like their 125 and would keep them after passing thier Test if they were just 10-20mph faster. If you fall into that category I would recommend looking at other engines that will fit into your frame ,maybe a 250cc or other Cylinder Heads available for your bike ie. 150,170,180cc where you are only changing the head not the body of your engine. And, don't tell a Soul. Best advice is "use not abuse". Use a 125 to learn on and maintain it well then when you pass your test you can still get what you paid for it and you have cash to chose a bike that suits your Performance needs. A tampered with 125 doesn't inspire confidence in potential buyers and will often sell for less than a standard bike. Back in the late 80's, I ran a Stage 1 Dynojetted NS125F which did 90mph everywhere but I had to get new Pistons and Rings every 3 months !