
Inithra
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Everything posted by Inithra
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Yeah, still going to get some new shoes fitted, and get it checked in those area's I can't get to. Any post I put here is just so I can get an idea of what's wrong, rather than letting a mechanic take me to the cleanera. The bike is a tool for me, not a toy I keep because I have too much money and nothing to do on sunny sundays. I can't throw money at it and I can't put it in the garage over wiinter.
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Thanks for the replies. On my way in to work tonight I managed to ride through a shin deep puddle that literally blasted both my feet off the pegs. Pulled up at work, and pedal is operating normally! As an added bonus, my new cheap as chips Cube trousers (£35 from M&P on eBay) kept my feet and legs almost 100% dry!
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The bike is a Suzuki Marauder GZ125, Y reg, the back brake is a drum. So halfway to work last night, I went to use the back brake at a junction, and noticed that it was quite a bit stiffer to press down on the pedal, and the pedal didn't spring back when I removed my foot. So this morning I did a couple checks. When you press the brake, it does engage the brake fully, as you cannot then move the bike, and the light still comes on. Then when I remove my foot, the brake does release, but the light doesn't go up until you manually move the pedal back up. It feels like the brakes are constantly engaged slightly, as there is a little bit of resistance when rolling the bike in neutral, and I have been noticing for a couple of days that it was even slower than normal. When I got home, it didn't smell as if the brake pads have been cooked, so hopefully this isn't causing TOO much damage? I gave the bike a clean and then applied ACF50 a couple weeks ago, haven't cleaned it since then as I've been working 60+ hours a week, and had to go visit my dad in hospital, so just haven't found the time. Could all the crud have caused this? Will giving it a good clean (and maybe some WD40?) possibly fix the problem? Or am I going to have to get a new brake cable, possibly new brake pedal, and probably new pads? I'm flat broke until Friday, and need the bike every day until then, how much more damage am I going to do riding it as it is? How much danger am I in? Below is a link to a picture of the brake lining wear limit indicator, but I honestly don't know if it is showing zero or lots left! https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzv_CdmzaZqPZ3doMjNLNHhBcjQ/edit?usp=sharing
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Lately been listening to a lot of Falconer. The Among Beggards and Thieves album, specifically: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOWv8ATb ... yMCOgNsDiv
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Can't help I'm afraid, but I do have the same problem with the light! Police pulled me over a couple of weeks ago as I was riding home at night, just to let me know it was out. Luckily I actually had it booked in for a service the following Monday, and didn't need to ride it until then. But a few days ago I noticed it was out again, but the brake light still works as with yours. I have a new bulb ready to go in, and will get it in as soon as I find a sodding Phillips screwdriver long enough to reach under the rear mudguard! We will see how long the new bulb lasts after that Can you tell me what effect the prpb;em in the carb has? Mine has very little power - I've read up and people suggest the carb may be to blame, was wondering if you are experiencing power issues?
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Cheers, that's what I'm hoping it is. Didn't have a problem at all this morning, and the bike had been sat since Friday night.
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So, yeah, as the title suggests, sometimes when I go to start the bike, the key just will NOT turn. Only ever when starting, though, never when turning it off. I've tried both keys, because the one I use every day has a tiny little twist at the top, but it didn't work any better with the spare. Note that I bought the bike second hand, and wasn't told of this, and to be fair it didn't happen for the first couple months that I had it. Do you think it's just the weather? Sometimes when I get on, it turns first time, sometimes it takes a couple minutes of trying. Bike is a Suzuki Marauder GZ 125, if that matters for something like this? Going in for a service tomorrow, but thought I'd get your opinions as well.
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Heh. While I agree that bike can look good, I had a battered version of it, bought as a total non-runner and fixed up by my brother. Was never happy with it, and after he died I didn't have enough knowledge to keep up with the maintenance, so I got a Kawasaki Eliminator 125 (in the electric blue) that is in MUCH better condition, and even better looking! [album]676[/album]
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No matter how I try to tighten them, my mirrors will not stay put! I think the thread has gone, or something. The left is much worse than the right, as it can swing all the way in so it's basically at 90 degrees to the bars! The right only moves a little bit, and only at high speeds combines with high winds. Is there any way to stop either of them moving? I think somebody told me about a kind of tape you can put on the thread that will help, but I can't remember what it's called.
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First thing I did when I passed the CBT was buy a flip front helmet with groove things. Have the front up when putting the helmet on and the glasses don't fall off. Well, unless my hair has been cut extremely short recently, but with my trips to the barber being about once every 6 months that's hardly ever a problem. Contacts aren't especially expensive, but yeah, when you struggle to have petrol and food money left after paying bills, anything on top is too much!
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Yeah, it seems I was wrong about where I actually needed to see with a lifesaver. Yet another reason I won't be going back to the place I took my CBT! Although it does look like I'll be renewing the CBT at another place, and not doing the full test. That's purely down to budget issues though - currently my outgoings exceed my income by a fair whack!
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Hi there, just wondering how many people there are here who have to wear glasses all the time, and how you cope when on the bike? I didn't have too much trouble during the CBT, and (touch wood) haven't had any problems in the 15 months since, but I don't use lifesavers very often, as when I do, I can't see shit! It might be my bike jacket, but I don't seem able to actually turn my head enough to see behind me without shifting my whole body round, and anything I do see is from the corner of my eye, which given I need the glasses in the first place, means it's no better than not turning in the first place. Instead, I rely on the mirrors a LOT, and it works for me, but I know this will get me failed if/when it comes to taking the actual test, so I was wondering if anybody in a similar situation has any tips? I've considered contacts, but cheap ones give me problems, and good ones are outside my budget
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Pretty much as the topic states. I can start and ride the bike with no problems, until or unless the headlight is on. When starting, if the light is on the engine starts then immediately cuts out. If you switch the light on while the bike is already running, the engine dies immediately. This first happened about a week ago, after a couple days/nights of snow. That time, I took it to a local garage and they told me the next day it had been some wiring. They didn't eloborate or say where, and thinking the problem resolved I didn't ask. It happened again this evening, just as I was about to ride into work for a night shift. My guess is a short, or a bad earth (one causing the other?), but my mechanical knowledge is very near zero. If I try to follow the wiring from the headlight, do you think I will be able to easily see the cause if this? ie, some worn wiring witb possible exposed copper that some electrical tape will fix (if temporarily?). If not, do I have a case to call the garage and get them to fix it again, free of charge? If it's exposure causing it, due to not having a cover despite some pretty bad weather (i have a cover but it's in the boot of a friends car and he's being difficult getting it back to me), then it's really my fault, not theirs, although I wouldn't necessarily admit that to them!
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We did try that, but even then the back wheel and whole bike moved, enough to unbalance the bike (almost pushed it off the sidestand, and I only had one foot on the floor because my brother was on my right trying to undo the nut). In case we are doing it wrong - does the thread undo toward the rear or front of the bike? I considered shocking it, by whamming the handle of the wrench, but it just slipped off.
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Hi, my bike is actually a Gilera, but my research seems to suggest it has the above Honda engine. I've bought the clutch plates, and borrowed the castellated tool thing from a local bike garage, but can't seem to "lock off" the clutch in order to actually undo the nut. The garage just use an impact driver, but I don't have one, so the clutch just turns and moves the back wheel. I've already broken the "spider basket" by trying to brace it, can anyone tell me either the correct way, or an easy workaround? The garage did have another tool, or part of the same one, but because they just use an impact driver, they didn't know how it worked! Many Thanks
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWtTBPaRV2A
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Although I was never confirmed for this, I now definitely cannot attend as it clashes with a beer festival back down south, so I am going to ride down there and spend some time with friends and family I haven't seen since last September. Hope you guys all have fun, and maybe I can make it to the next one!
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I don't suppose you'll be passing Banbury way? And avoiding motorways?? I'm not going to be on a full license until very late this year, maybe (very) early next..
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What model was it? 2000, Green/White When did you buy it and how much did it cost? January 4th 2012, cost £320 for the bike as a non-runner. My brother said this was a good idea, as buying something that didn't work and getting it on the road myself (with lots of his help) would be good preparation if it broke down in the future. Since then, have purchased; Exhaust silencer, rear shocks, front and rear brake shoes, front brake caliper, front brake master cylinder, new chain and sprocket set, rear brake switch, rear wheel bearings, speedo cable and new fork seals. Also have a speedo drive unit still to buy. Total outlay on parts has been around £400. All labour has been done by myself and my brother. Looks Well, as most people, I bought the bike I liked the look of that was within my price range. So yes, I like the looks. In a general sense. Up close, there are panels missing (they are pretty rare to find panels for, as the originals are discontinued, and the few I have seen are black, not green), and the paint on one side of the tank has all split, as a result I think of a previous owner spilling fuel on it. Fun Factor As a cruiser, it doesn't have a lot at the top end. Or in the middle. Or the bottom, really. It tops out at around 55/60, but honestly that's enough for me. I've never ridden/driven anything except a pushbike before, so anything over 20 still feels very fast to me. Reliability Although it was bought as a non-runner that hadn't been on the road for 4 years, it has only done 5900 miles, so the engine itself is brilliant. It ran from the minute we got it back, starts on the button every time, although it does need a bit of choke if it's cold, but still runs perfectly after a minute. Once we had bought all the parts needed, she sailed through the MOT. The electrics are a bit temperamental, in that the console light that tell me my lights are on only occasionally decides to work, although there is no problem with the lights themselves, and the indicators seem to be on a 4 second cycle. Would I buy another? Honestly, no. It is a nice bike, but buying a non-running one, although I think it is a good idea in theory, is not such a good idea with this particular bike. There is really only one dealer for parts, and he can only get certain ones, otherwise you have to rely on people breaking one up. I'm now considering taking my test and moving up to a bigger japanese cruiser, or maybe even seeing if I can find a cheap Suzuki or Honda 125 cruiser. Even if you found a really good example (and there are some out there) the price seems to be only a few hundred less than those Suzukis or Hondas, which would be better value and have more resale value.
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I still won't confirm, but I have now booked the week off work.
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Taken a couple of weeks ago, just after a wash as a reward for finally working and being road legal
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Would say I'd definitely be there, just a lot to get sorted. Haven't got any kit, so that's a fair bit of outlay, my bike doesn't have a rack, and you can't seem to get one for it so I'd have to get creative with bungees. The gear is something I will need anyway, so I will most likely be ordering that, then doing a couple of practise runs locally, and if they work out I will get a satnav and be a definite for attending, providing there is still space!
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Fairly interested in attending, just need to book the time off work, buy a tent, sort some way of carrying stuff on the bike - saw somebody was on a gilera last year, maybe they or someone else can advise of panniers/racks or something? - and pluck up the courage to ride 90+ miles after just a couple months riding a bike (or using any form of motorised transport!). Is a satnav worth getting or should I just get a tank bag with a map pocket?
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Boo! I'm fairly close to MK, but the route goes on motorways, and I can't