Weebl

Presuming you had the same in the tank at the start and at the end, so the whole 320 miles was the £45 you spent, and the average price of a litre was £1.35 ish, then you bought and used just over 7 and a quarter gallons. That makes the calculations about 44 MPG. Which is not brilliant but not bad either? What is it supposed to get? All this of course is rubbish if you started with a full tank and used that AND the £45 worth.

Not sure about you guys doing it on a 125 who have to have the engine wound right up, but on a 500 you can change up into third as you exit the corner, waft the throttle open a bit and just drift through the speed trap at well over 50 KPH, I know because that's what I did. No need to wind it all the way up in second and have that frenetic feeling transmitting itself into how you ride. On a 500, go round the bend in second, as you start to sit the bike up give it a little squirt then change up. Keep the throttle open to give yourself drive, but you are not trying to smash it through the stops, no need. There is not even a swerve 'out' You can line up from out of the corner, see the speed trap cones and the blue cone you have to go round the outside of and if you take the right line it turns it into a gentle bend. As soon as you have made the blue cone, shut the throttle, swerve back into line and brake to a halt. I found if you think you are struggling to make 50 so have everything wailing and thrashing away in second, you also wail and thrash away and feel unnecessarily hurried. Do it in third with just a bit of revs and it all seems so much less effort and easier. For the actual swerve back bit, where you do actually swerve, my instructor got me to practice swerving around the 30 MPH signs they paint on the road (check no traffic around and the road condition is right etc) It seems to give you the right amount of bar pushing and hip wiggling required, but as I said, when it is not all frenetic you have loads of time to pop the bike back in line and brake to a stop.

Similar to the one in the picture, it needs to be a nice tight fit.

I have removed 1000's of screws and bolts over the years with an Easy out, so they do work. You are right of course about the size and the ceramics, he will have had to use it that size to grip on metal You are also right about the bore and the bits, no way would I do it with the head on, definitely a head off job.

Before you start drilling and worrying about helicoils, look for a tool called an Easy Out. It is basically a wrong way round screw thread. http://cdn.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f33/2979d1313072552-need-extractor-tool-help-ez-out.jpg What you do is drill a small hole in the centre of what you want to remove, then tap it in so it bites into the plug remains and then undo by tapping gently on the top to keep the threads engaged while turning it anti clockwise which makes the threads bite in and should allow you to undo it without any damage to the threads. http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/813555667_FdNqM-XL.jpg No need to drill the hole that big and use an easy out that big either, but he was probably being safe. Whatever you do, do not snap one of these off.

I think it is Chain adjuster washer, part number 64712-33D00 But yea, I just did what Bex recommended and downloaded your parts manual It does not really look like that in the picture though, I am struggling to find the bit with the graduations on it (which is what you are after) in a picture.

Is that not what I have been saying?

Don't go out and buy a new battery, go out and buy a battery charger.

Don't get hung up about which gear you are in. Get the speed right, get into the gear which for that speed will allow you to accelerate or complete your maneuver safely, that is the correct gear. It does not matter if it is first, second or third. It's not like a car where somebody is sat watching you and can see exactly which gear you are in and have arbitrarily decided that X gear is correct, so if you do it in a different one you are wrong. Only you will know what gear you are in, sometimes not even you will know (dead easy to forget if you are in fourth or fifth for example, and it does not actually matter really) Don't race or labour the engine and complete the maneuvers at a safe speed, if you do that, you were in the right gear.

You can do either, but a 2 stroke won't like sitting for ages idling. A battery charger is a good purchase, they always come in handy, you can get battery conditioners for bikes which are designed to be left plugged in when the bike is not being ridden. If you bought one of them it will be useful for years, and may be the conditioner you leave on your 1000cc superbike in a few years time? Could you even borrow a battery charger? most of the people I know who drive have one knocking around somewhere? You could even take it off the bike and connect it with a set of jump leads to your running car as a short term fix to get 12 plus volts in it.

I would not worry too much about stalling on hill starts if all the bike experience you have is one hour mate, you did well! Even the hours you do on CBT will see you acclimatised enough to hill start I expect.

No, you don't block change like that on a bike. You can if you want but it is a sequential gearbox and is supposed to be used sequentially, you remain in much better control, and are ready to go when you need to go if you are already in the right gear, as opposed to having to count 1.2.3. as you drop it 3 gears and then let the clutch out and hope you picked the right gear. Don't do it because you worry about what gear you are in, I had this conversation with my son and if you are riding along (or slowing down) and the engine is neither bogging nor redlining, but sat nicely where you want it to be, then does it matter if that is third,fourth or fifth? With experience you will know from the sound of the engine whether to change up or down, and you will also know when you are in top so you can stop trying to change up. I do now and again clutch in and then drop the last 2 gears into first as I roll to a halt, but that is about it.

Before you spend money, get the battery charged and try it. Fault diagnosing electrical problems with a flat battery is extremely difficult even if you know what you are doing. Get to the situation where you know it has a good battery with good voltage before you start deciding things don't work.

It should charge the battery as long as the engine is running. That is one of the things you need the voltmeter for. check it with the engine off, that is what the battery is holding, should be around 12 and a bit volts. Start the engine and check again, should be around 13 and a half ish volts. not a definitive test but will give you a good indication. It is probably not an MOT fail to not have a starter motor, but the tester does have to start the engine to test the exhaust, so he might refuse to test if you tell him he has to bounce it up and down the road. They do have a caveat saying they can refuse to test if the 'vehicle is not fit to be driven where necessary' You could always ask though and offer to bump it yourself when he needs it fired up?

Sounds like it. The bike starts so you know that is OK, just the starter not working so the starter solenoid is a good bet. No guarantees though, mechanics don't really work like that and electrics even more so. No. The starter solenoid has nothing to do with the indicators. More likely the battery you have put in is not charged fully so with the engine running you have enough power to run the indicators properly, with the engine off and all power coming from the battery you don't. Do you have a voltmeter you can check the battery voltage with?

If the solenoid is not working (which it sounds like it is not) then bump start the bike. It should still start this way. If it starts ok like that then you know you just need to buy a new solenoid. Get it started and running before worrying too much about the indicators, if after it runs and is running they still do it, you can start looking at the relay, but having good voltage to start with may help.

Has it supposed to have had one by now? You say it only has 340 Kilometres on it, should it have had one either by mileage or age yet. If it should have had and it has not been done then you are out of warranty. Saying that, I just looked up Lexmoto's warranty details. Looks like it states it is not transferable (which I am not sure about, I thought it had to be under UK consumer law) and also it does not cover a lot. Basically engine block and internals. Still, on a bike that only costs £860 brand new, you are not going to get many frills? Best bet would be to ask the dealer to have a look at it under goodwill. Tell them you are the new owner but will of course be using them for all your servicing

Sounds to me like all you have done is turn the idle down. I am not being nasty mate but trying to fix problems that don't exist (spinning wheel on centrestand) while also trying to fix real problems will end in tears. You need to get it to somebody who knows what they are doing. Do you have all the paperwork from the bloke you bought it off? Has it been serviced with a stamp from a mechanic if it needed it? If you have a nearly new bike with an up to date service history, you can go to the dealer and very politely insist that they sort it for you. My advice is to stop twiddling screws on the carb without really knowing what you are doing. If it is running too rich (which is not a given) and If you did manage to lean it off, and you went 1/4 of a turn too far, it will blow up. That will then be your fault and the garage will quite rightly not do anything about it, unless you pay them for all the work required.

Well they obviously don't want your money to fix your bike then. Take it to somebody more helpful who will. As to twist and go, yes they have a clutch (albeit an automatic one) and it is supposed to do that if it is twist and go. How do you think the back wheel drives around when you twist the throttle? The bike does not know or care if the back wheel is on the ground, if you rev it, it will spin the wheel.

Probably not. The spinning wheel is a dragging clutch, as long as it is not excessive then it is no problem. The loud noise is probably the exhaust, might be blowing, might be loose. Did you take it to a mechanic?

You will need to redo your CBT and then do theory and both Mod 1 and Mod 2 for a full motorcycle licence. Depending on your age and what bike you do it on will depend on what bikes you can ride afterwards and if you have any restrictions, but none of them will apply to a 200CC bike (unless it is a very powerful one which does not weigh a lot) The hoops to jump through to ride 200CC are the same as those required to ride a litre sportsbike (apart from you can do the test on a smaller bike, which is not actually any easier)

Unlikely. And if you leave the speed convertor on, you will be indicating very low, like 30 MPH at 50MPH low. Like I said, odds on it is expecting a 'not speeding' signal from the clocks, and you don't have any speed feedback in your UK clocks. Don't be surprised if it still reads low either. most bikes reading 30MPH are only doing a genuine 27MPH. I just expect that your KPH/MPH convertor was exacerbating that effect a bit.

Sounds like it could be, but you have to bear in mind all Japanese Domestic Vehicles are restricted to 180 KPH (112 MPH) As it is doing it in every gear, then it is not still restricted, but not receiving any signal at all, so going into limp mode (in all probability, it is 'fail safe' so if it does not get a signal saying 'I am not speeding' then it presumes you have unplugged it so goes into limp mode) If yours is cable drive to the speedo, then it will collect it's speed signal from the clocks, and your UK clocks will not have the speed sensing device in them at all, so splicing the box back in will not fool anything. (normally, when you de-restrict you don't actually remove the restrictor, you just change to MPH so the restrictor is pushed up to 180 MPH from 180 KPH.) I am not 100% sure what you mean by saying you want MPH readings? That should have been sorted when you had the KPH speedo converted? If it still read in KPH and not MPH then it was never derestricted and the black box is not for that. First thing to check is that you have not blown the fuse while changing the clocks, do they work ok? Lights in them and everything? Check the fuse box and the one for 'meters' is what you are looking for If the fuse has gone then no signal If that does not fix it/fuse not blown then; I had a quick google and found the speed signal lines in your ECU (as long as they all use the same colour codes) What you need to do to feed the constant 'I am not going faster than 180' signal. Locate the ECU connector, you should have 2 wires, one Brown/Blue, one Black/White. You need to cut the Brown/Blue and then strip a bit of insulation from the wire at the ECU end. Then strip some insulation from the Black/White without breaking the line The solder a 2K ohm resistor between the Brown/Blue wire (ECU end) to the Black/White line. If that fixes it, remember to clean up where you have been fiddling with insulation tape etc

Does it always misfire at 5k regardless of gear? Or does it misfire at a certain speed which is 5k revs in top?

Personally I don't think that is ripping you off I paid more than that but some of that is down to the fact the Mod 1 test centre was so far away I basically had to pay for an entire day just to get there, do the test and get back! They did Mod 2 training on the way there and back mind.