Weebl

You will need to redo your CBT and then do theory and both Mod 1 and Mod 2 for a full motorcycle licence. Depending on your age and what bike you do it on will depend on what bikes you can ride afterwards and if you have any restrictions, but none of them will apply to a 200CC bike (unless it is a very powerful one which does not weigh a lot) The hoops to jump through to ride 200CC are the same as those required to ride a litre sportsbike (apart from you can do the test on a smaller bike, which is not actually any easier)

Unlikely. And if you leave the speed convertor on, you will be indicating very low, like 30 MPH at 50MPH low. Like I said, odds on it is expecting a 'not speeding' signal from the clocks, and you don't have any speed feedback in your UK clocks. Don't be surprised if it still reads low either. most bikes reading 30MPH are only doing a genuine 27MPH. I just expect that your KPH/MPH convertor was exacerbating that effect a bit.

Sounds like it could be, but you have to bear in mind all Japanese Domestic Vehicles are restricted to 180 KPH (112 MPH) As it is doing it in every gear, then it is not still restricted, but not receiving any signal at all, so going into limp mode (in all probability, it is 'fail safe' so if it does not get a signal saying 'I am not speeding' then it presumes you have unplugged it so goes into limp mode) If yours is cable drive to the speedo, then it will collect it's speed signal from the clocks, and your UK clocks will not have the speed sensing device in them at all, so splicing the box back in will not fool anything. (normally, when you de-restrict you don't actually remove the restrictor, you just change to MPH so the restrictor is pushed up to 180 MPH from 180 KPH.) I am not 100% sure what you mean by saying you want MPH readings? That should have been sorted when you had the KPH speedo converted? If it still read in KPH and not MPH then it was never derestricted and the black box is not for that. First thing to check is that you have not blown the fuse while changing the clocks, do they work ok? Lights in them and everything? Check the fuse box and the one for 'meters' is what you are looking for If the fuse has gone then no signal If that does not fix it/fuse not blown then; I had a quick google and found the speed signal lines in your ECU (as long as they all use the same colour codes) What you need to do to feed the constant 'I am not going faster than 180' signal. Locate the ECU connector, you should have 2 wires, one Brown/Blue, one Black/White. You need to cut the Brown/Blue and then strip a bit of insulation from the wire at the ECU end. Then strip some insulation from the Black/White without breaking the line The solder a 2K ohm resistor between the Brown/Blue wire (ECU end) to the Black/White line. If that fixes it, remember to clean up where you have been fiddling with insulation tape etc

Does it always misfire at 5k regardless of gear? Or does it misfire at a certain speed which is 5k revs in top?

Personally I don't think that is ripping you off I paid more than that but some of that is down to the fact the Mod 1 test centre was so far away I basically had to pay for an entire day just to get there, do the test and get back! They did Mod 2 training on the way there and back mind.

Don't forget, people have different abilities, some will take to it like a duck to water, some will need extra time. 21 hours of training is a lot just to pass Mod 1 but is that training getting you halfway ready for Mod 2 as well? Total training time for me not including CBT was about 17 hours to pass both (some of that was spent drinking tea and having a fag mind) but I had ridden a 125 when I was younger, had ridden the odd moped since if the commute was not too far and have had a car licence for about 20 years. £140 for a full days Motorbike training on their bike is good as well, I was paying more than that. Personally I think you have mixed it up a bit, as you say test fees of £90, and that would be enough to pay for both tests, not just Mod1 which is £15. I paid more than £510 all in for mine, even doing less hours so that sounds pretty good?

Make sure they accept returns. A lot of places won't on a helmet as you could have dropped it. (I know distance selling regulations say you can, but they normally caveat helmets as no return, and although if you went to court you would probably win, it is a lot of hassle)

Unless you know for sure it is a good fit (because you have tried that exact make, model and size on before) then don't buy it off the net. Different manufacturers, and even different styles within the same line up, will fit differently. Helmets are the one thing you really have to try on before you buy. I am not sure about the Aikido, but I tried some Nitro's on a couple of months ago, I have quite a small head and even the large pinched me across the forehead, while being quite loose elsewhere. Enough to make me think it would give me a headache after half an hour, without actually being a tight enough fit to be safe.

A proper 100% permanent fix would be welding a plate over the hole, no other way but then even that will have a life, just like the rest of the exhaust system. You need to clarify what you mean by permanent, would another 12 months count, 2 years? The life of the rest of the exhaust? I have just fixed a little hole in my exhaust link pipe, I fixed it with a Halfords exhaust repair bandage which with my discount card cost about £1.20 (I think it is still less that £3.50 retail) You get a bit of silver foil to put over the hole (I used some Speedtape I have as well to back it up, it is an aluminium tape) and then wet and wrap the bandage, bit of wire to hold it in place while it dries, and then run the bike to cure it. 20 minutes work? I bet it will last until another bit of the exhaust goes and it is overall in too bad a nick to be worth repairing, and it is invisible unless you get under the bike, so for just over a quid I have what I would consider to be a permanent repair.

You can go as fast as you want, but if you spook the horse and it hurts somebody or causes damage, you may have to justify that speed in court as conforming to 'slowly' If you were worried you could not be on the other side of the road that long without a car coming round the corner, then don't overtake till you can see far enough to be able to pass slowly. You don't have to get past everything going slower than you immediately, you can wait behind it until it is safe to pass. If you want figures, I am guessing I normally pass at about 10-15MPH (don't look at the speedo to judge it so it is a bit of a guess) I also slow down to about that if they are on the other side of the road coming towards me as well. I generally pull the clutch in to get the engine noise right down as well, but don't do that on your test as that is a fail

No probs mate glad you got it sorted Good move not posting too much on there just yet, can be a vicious place for a newbie with questions One thing to bear in mind though is a lot of the posters on there are no marks with not a days service between them who just like to chops off and repost rumours and their (often wrong) take on what Military life is like. Pick and choose which posters you listen to Congrats on passing ADSC, my little snippet is don't go Inf because the wait is shorter, 22 years plus is a long time to be doing a job you are not 100% committed to, if you want to be an Infantryman, then go for it. If you want to work on helicopters then don't take it as second best, you will regret it.

100MPG is quite good I would have thought, I know my sons 125 gets nowhere near that (but it is an Aprilia RS125 so it is to be expected) Maybe ask around other owners (preferably one's without the kangaroo problem) to see what their average MPG is? If they happily get 120 with no issues then maybe the garage have masked the issue by turning it up too rich to help with an underlying fault? What is the quoted average MPG, and how do you ride it? It should not really miss, once in a blue moon I suppose you can put down to whatever, but if it does it regularly then you might want to investigate the cause. If it is the fuel pump not supplying enough pressure then you need to get it investigated, as a lean running engine will destroy itself very quickly, detonation can happen in an instant at high revs and will easily blow a hole in a piston. Hm, I have just checked the official Honda figures and they vary from 130 to 160MPG (which is ridiculous) MCN did a review and their actual returned figure was 87.5 which makes your 90-100 sound pretty good? Did you ask the garage exactly what they did?

From what he has written, and what you have written it seems the problem occurs because the bike runs too lean in hot weather. It sounds like they have turned the fuel up to compensate, you can't have it all ways, you have had the bike richened up to stop it running rough, but you want more MPG. The only way to get that MPG back will be to run lean again, which will cause overheating and premature engine failure. If you are adamant, take the bike back and insist they undo what they did to alter the fueling. I expect they will but when you go back and complain you have holed a piston they will just nod and say 'yes'

Really? You have been asked to clarify a few things as your post does not really make it clear what bike it is, and the problem could basically be anything electrical and you take that as you being belittled so you are off? I take it you don't have much experience with forums, because this one is one of the nicest one's on the 'net with people on it who are more than averagely helpful and knowledgeable. You need to sometimes read things a few times, try putting a different inflection or emphasis on different words. The written word is not brilliant at conveying meaning without body language, nobody here is trying to belittle you, they are trying to help you. Whatever you do, if this has upset you, don't try any other forums on the internet! augustburnsred, are you on ARRSE?

It means leave as much room as you would for a car, not pretend the bike is as wide as a car. When you overtake a car you don't give it a cars width extra, you give it enough room so if the driver is half asleep and on his phone he won't hit you as he wanders across the lane, or if stationary enough room that if they opened the car door it would not hit you. Do the same for a bike, enough room that you won't hit him if he swerves out of the gutter, wanders mid lane or falls off. Horses are a bit different, I always slow right down and get right on the other side of the road. I don't fancy a ton of horse in the face As to indicating, you can, but bear in mind if you were approaching a junction and indicated to overtake, a following or oncoming car could easily read that as you wanting to turn. That will pretty much fail you there and then (misleading other road users) so unless you can see a good reason to do it (you really want somebody to know you are moving across the lane) then don't, just mirror, lifesaver and move out.

You can, as long as the horn works on it's own from the horn button and not with the klaxon as well, which would still make the tone rise and fall. If you used the Klaxon on the road though, you would still be breaking Construction and Use Regulations. Whether anybody cared enough to do anything about it would be another matter. I imagine a fair few MOT testers and Coppers don't get too worked up about it and just let it go? It is not like it sounds like an emergency vehicle or anything?

Yes, faster = hotter, but that is engine speed, not bike speed! 20 MPH at 9000 revs will create the same heat as 30MPH at 9000 revs. In fact, at a higher speed you will get more airflow and actually run cooler. By putting a better accelerating sprocket on, it will rev out quicker and be sat at a lower speed, with the engine screaming it's face off (mind as a 50 they all do that anyway, no matter what) Put in the standard sprocket sizes.

There is no maximum noise limit, the horn must be single tone (technically you can have 2 tone but they must sound together) you cannot have a musical or alternating tone. When you say Klaxon, do you mean just an air horn (legal) or a Klaxon (which rises and falls, so illegal) All the other laws pertaining to using horns are the same, shame the people who beep at their mates constantly don't care.

Random Factoid #1546. Motorcycle examiners can be in a car during a motorcycle test, but it has to be an automatic. Presumably somebody who makes major decisions about driving in this country stipulated that, again presumably because he could not envision being able to change gear and watch somebody ride a bike at the same time. Scary. At least you know what to expect next time Savannah, and like you say, it is easy to do something which you think is a fail and it is not, just carry on doing your best right up until you get off the bike back in the test centre.

Really? A Harley Davidson is a good option for a 15 year old looking for a learner legal bike he can tinker with? Are you on Heroin and drain cleaner? (I await your spam posts to start after you have amazed us all with your massive knowledge about bikes for 5 or so posts)

If it was me; Start now, get the theory done, approach some schools and work out where you will be going, whose kit and bikes you will be using and a rough timeframe. Progress through at a comfortable rate for you, aiming to get it done before the rule change. There is absolutely no reason you cannot start now while your CBT is valid, and then when it runs out do it again, even if it falls between Mod 1 and Mod 2. You do not have to complete everything while on the same CBT certificate, so why try? September is just when your CBT runs out, it does not have to be either a start or end point of your full licence process.

No probs, thanks mate

he said yup Cool How does he want paying? Is PayPal OK? If so I can give you my address so he can invoice me, or if you give me his I can pay direct. If he wants another method of payment then just let me know

Fast Eddie, that would be great, ta although the offer runs out on the radio's today, so will have to order them tonight and then maybe look at the Maplins headsets later? Unless? Stu, would he take £40? Joeman, I am up for it, but I am not having a massive whip aerial mounted on the back of the bike

I had a Google, the hand helds look like they could do the trick but would need a fair bit of hacking. Those Radio's Joeman linked to look ideal, and the only modification needed would be to rewire a separate Push To Talk button down to the handlebars somewhere? I know they have a Vox activated option but I imagine that wind noise will be enough to activate it, so above 40 all you will hear is the other persons wind noise from in their helmet?