Weebl

Hmm, you seem to have a serious problem understanding nobody has written or is even mildly suggesting the heat from a hairdryer will be enough to make a steel fuel tank more malleable. Perhaps it is because you are too busy writing your Sons of Anarchy fan fiction or telling people about the time you ate a kebab, I don't know but I will break it down for you once more using simple numbers to explain. If a sheet sheet is at room temperature (lets use the number 15 and call them degrees) and you spray freezing fluid on it in a localised area and it reduces the temperature to -100 then you have a difference of 115 degrees and the equivalent shrinking of that localised area is proportional to that. If you warm the sheet with a hairdryer to 50 degrees, then spray freezing fluid onto a localised area and it reduces the temperature to -100 then you have a temperature difference of 150 degrees and shrinking in that localised area is again proportional (clue, it will be more) That is known as a temperature gradient. As you state you are still betting so much money, and I have already posted a link to a video that you seem to have ignored which proves the theory works, do you need my address?

Pretty much spot on mate It would have to be able to be pushed out from the inside, I did clarify that earlier on, but if you have no access then this method has the same effect, that of causing a relative movement in the metal. It won't work on big thick chunks of skin, the metal will have had to elastically deform to stay in a dent, but a thinner sheet where you have a shallow dent with no big radius change might just work. The OP says a shallow dent so worth a try? Like I was saying, there are no guarantees, but from his description, i would certainly give it a go for what it costs. (a couple of pence for the hairdryers electricity and an aerosol that a lot of offices and such use) Use the hairdryer to heat the metal around the dent rather than the middle of the dent where you are going to cool, you are trying to raise the temp gradient between the sprayed metal, and the unsprayed.

Not tried it myself on a Bike fuel tank and with a hairdryer, no. But I do understand the physics behind the theory. I am not saying it will definitely work either, just that the localised contraction you can cause could make the metal pop back out. I can not make a video of an oven tray doing it as he suggested because smacking an oven tray will cause it to crease and twist. This is plastic deformation, not elastic. Heating and shrinking a metal with plastic deformation will not make it pop back into a previously held shape. Quick 2 minute google found a video of the kind of effect I am talking about. Spannerhead, if this meets your criteria, feel free to keep your left nut, I have no use for it, but if you are still willing to send the cash, I will PM you my address. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oQpks0Z ... re=related

If you don't know what effect localised heating and cooling can have on metal, then perhaps you did not study metallurgy hard enough. You certainly have not read what I have written to come up with your pathetic analogy above. Did you read the bit where I wrote 'won't work if the metal is stretched or creased'? It will only work on the kind of dent that would 'pop' out if you could get to the inside to push, if you are lucky, the rapid cooling will cause enough local movement to have the same effect. You are so convinced this could not possibly work you are basically accusing me of being a moron, but worst case, absolutely no further damage is caused. You option of smashing around inside the tank could easily cause further denting, so then the PDR guy has multiple dents, high's and lows to fix with complicated stress raisers to work out which dent is which. Thanks for the completely irrelevant description of quenching though, massively interesting as it was it clearly has nothing to do with what is being talked about.

Is the choke definitely coming all the way off? The symptoms would fit if the choke was sticking on.

That's old information. It changed in 2001. You used to get your provisional licence at 17 and if you had not taken a test (car or bike) within the 2 years you could not re-apply for a further year for your bike licence provisional.. Now you get your provisional motorcycle licence at 17 which lasts just like the rest of your licence, until you are 70.

Depending on what was being shouted, the keys may end up in the nearest bramble and nettle filled ditch

Why do you think you have a few relays gone? relays don't generally just go, especially a few at a time without something else causing the issue. Also, just because something is not massive and heavy does not mean it will have no effect on a bike. I had a resistor measuring about 1/4 of an inch long and weighing less than a tenth of an ounce go on my car from inside the ECU. A ton and a half of car won't move without it. If you have several relays gone, I am surprised you did not notice before, and surprised the bike worked as well.

Second meet tonight, hopefully the weather will hold and we will have another good day like last week. Be nice if a few more people made it? I shall be there and I am taking my lad on his brand new (to him) Aprilia RS125.

Oil goes black because of carbon and heat. If your engine runs about where it should in the temp range then no issues. You say it is 'nearly' black after 20 or so miles so that is pretty normal. If it was immediately very black then you might have an issue. Did you flush the oil during the engine change? Or just drain, filter and refill? Because if you did not flush that can also cause it to go darker, quicker, due to the carbon in the oil still in it mixing with the new (not an issue, and I am not saying you have to flush every time)

Although mine was not that long ago I cannot actually remember I think however that at least a few times I dropped it again after moving off. I definitely opened it a few times due to the nerves and the hot day causing a bit of fogging. (and the swearing as I thought I had cocked up badly enough to fail, which was then not even mentioned on the debrief, never mind scored down) Like I say, I cannot swear that I did not do it as part of putting the bike in gear before moving off, it did not register as a big thing I suppose so I never thought about it, hence not remembering? Good luck with the Mod 2

Yours is not the first experience I have heard of like this. It must surely be isolated to Bike instructors? (mine were excellent though, I was obviously lucky) No other people in the country take your money to teach you something, and then shout and swear at you surely? I must admit, if I was paying somebody good money and they had a temper tantrum at me they would be told they were unprofessional and had seen the last of my money (as well as being told in no uncertain terms if they EVER talk to me like that again they will end up sat on their arse) How do these people stay in business? If it were me, and you are set on going back to him, I would have a word before the next lesson. I would be doing all the talking and he would be doing all the listening and he would be damn sure where he stood at the end of the conversation. You are there to be taught (and the odd sharp word can go along with that) not to be bullied to make him feel like the big man.

Try a decent ring spanner, you need a good 6 sided one, not a multiple position one. If it slips with a 6 sided ring spanner, you need professional help getting it off anyway as it is round. I don't know what your tools are like but companies that sell cheap ring spanners should be shot. They cause more damage that they remove bolts.

Can you get a ring spanner on it? A good 6 sided ring spanner is as good as a socket. (better than a cheap socket) If you are confident you can get the oil filter off and back on again, or if it all goes wrong you can get somebody else to sort it without starting the bike and riding it, then stick a screwdriver through the side of the old filter and use the leverage to unscrew it. Oil wrench tools are generally rubbish, I have yet to be beaten by smacking a screwdriver through the side and twisting

Also reported. Do you really have nothing better to do on a Sunday that sign up to a Bike website with badly spelled bike usernames, all so your spam will be here for the half and hour or so it will take the Admins to delete it? I hope your website has cost you a lot of money to set up, say goodbye to it though.

A slightly more violent way to get them separated if they get stuck for a longer period and rocking won't work is to put the bike on the centre stand, rev it and put it in gear, the rear wheel will spin, change up into second, give it a few revs to get plenty of momentum in the rear wheel, then clutch in and dab the rear brake. That will pretty much work all the time unless the clutch is knackered. Obviously take care as the rear wheel is chuntering round and if it touches down the bike will hare off on it's own

Yep, you never oil paper filters, it blocks them up and you were basically trying to run it with massive choke on . The smoke was just the oil you put on it burning off. You only oil foam filters

It might be worth going over all the exposed wiring loom and connectors you can see with WD40. You might have water in the electrics from leaving it out in the rain?

If the bike came fitted with indicators from the factory when it was type approved, it needs indicators to pass an MOT. Both sets obviously need to be fitted, whats the point of front indicators if the backs are missing? I would be surprised if the fronts are working as well with the rears missing, in all probability they are just coming on, with not enough voltage drop to cause them to blink, which is a failure even if the rears were fitted.

Next Thursday The guy who is trying to get it off the ground wants it to be a weekly thing, he seems to be doing a lot of organising behind the scenes so it will hopefully take off. The pub is very nice anyway, although I spent most of the night in the car park

Anybody fancy this tonight? Looks like it will be pretty good weather (after the forecast being for rain all week )

Similar, but on the other side At least on my A model. Possibly not. Even the owners manual says to fill it from the expansion bottle, which is great if you want a full expansion bottle and a half empty cooling system.

The radiator filler cap is the way to do it, fill it up there and then top up the expansion tank afterwards. Odds are, if you pop the rad cap off it will need a little top up and a run, it will then probably be fine. You should have got about 1.8 litres of coolant in? You did not take pipes off to fill it did you? You just need to take the infill panels off from the sides of the fairing and you can see the rad cap and the expansion tank cap.

Water is better at cooling than coolant is, so not too much water. More likely you had a small airlock where the temp sender is. Where did you fill it from? The expansion tank (right hand side) or the radiator cap (left hand side)?

It is nothing to do with heating the metal to make it more malleable, it is to increase the temperature gradient when you cool the specified area and therefore increase the shrinking effect. To the OP; The Steel used in a fuel tank has no shape memory, so this method will only work with certain dents, it won't work across crease lines and won't work if the metal has been stretched as it dented. It is best in situations where you have had a dent 'pop' the metal the wrong way, and the shrink may (or may not) 'pop' it back the right way. That sounds like what you have so it could well be worth a go as long as you don't have to spend money to but stuff to try it. Paintless Dent Repair is quite cheap these days, and if your tank is single walled will be extremely simple for somebody with PDR skills.