Weebl

A slightly more violent way to get them separated if they get stuck for a longer period and rocking won't work is to put the bike on the centre stand, rev it and put it in gear, the rear wheel will spin, change up into second, give it a few revs to get plenty of momentum in the rear wheel, then clutch in and dab the rear brake. That will pretty much work all the time unless the clutch is knackered. Obviously take care as the rear wheel is chuntering round and if it touches down the bike will hare off on it's own

Yep, you never oil paper filters, it blocks them up and you were basically trying to run it with massive choke on . The smoke was just the oil you put on it burning off. You only oil foam filters

It might be worth going over all the exposed wiring loom and connectors you can see with WD40. You might have water in the electrics from leaving it out in the rain?

If the bike came fitted with indicators from the factory when it was type approved, it needs indicators to pass an MOT. Both sets obviously need to be fitted, whats the point of front indicators if the backs are missing? I would be surprised if the fronts are working as well with the rears missing, in all probability they are just coming on, with not enough voltage drop to cause them to blink, which is a failure even if the rears were fitted.

Next Thursday The guy who is trying to get it off the ground wants it to be a weekly thing, he seems to be doing a lot of organising behind the scenes so it will hopefully take off. The pub is very nice anyway, although I spent most of the night in the car park

So not being able to see and pulling out anyway is now a valid excuse in law? Sorry officer, I could not see round the blind bend so overtook anyway, thats ok right? Sorry mate, I could not see out of the junction because the lorry was parked in the way, so I just launched it out of the junction anyway, jobs a good 'un. Ah, sorry I ran in to the back of you while you were sat at the lights, but I was looking the other way so did not see you. I shall let my lad know as he is taking his car driving test soon. He can explain to his tester when they try to fail him that not being able to see what is coming is no excuse not for just going and hoping for the best.

Anybody fancy this tonight? Looks like it will be pretty good weather (after the forecast being for rain all week )

Similar, but on the other side At least on my A model. Possibly not. Even the owners manual says to fill it from the expansion bottle, which is great if you want a full expansion bottle and a half empty cooling system.

The radiator filler cap is the way to do it, fill it up there and then top up the expansion tank afterwards. Odds are, if you pop the rad cap off it will need a little top up and a run, it will then probably be fine. You should have got about 1.8 litres of coolant in? You did not take pipes off to fill it did you? You just need to take the infill panels off from the sides of the fairing and you can see the rad cap and the expansion tank cap.

Water is better at cooling than coolant is, so not too much water. More likely you had a small airlock where the temp sender is. Where did you fill it from? The expansion tank (right hand side) or the radiator cap (left hand side)?

It is nothing to do with heating the metal to make it more malleable, it is to increase the temperature gradient when you cool the specified area and therefore increase the shrinking effect. To the OP; The Steel used in a fuel tank has no shape memory, so this method will only work with certain dents, it won't work across crease lines and won't work if the metal has been stretched as it dented. It is best in situations where you have had a dent 'pop' the metal the wrong way, and the shrink may (or may not) 'pop' it back the right way. That sounds like what you have so it could well be worth a go as long as you don't have to spend money to but stuff to try it. Paintless Dent Repair is quite cheap these days, and if your tank is single walled will be extremely simple for somebody with PDR skills.

Not quite sure what you are asking? You take them apart, you can see all the gunk that is sat in float bowls etc, you clean it all out, spray carb cleaner down all the drillings and castings and through all the removed jets and associated bits. It is then clean, you don't really have to monitor what percentage you have cleaned it, it starts dirty, and ends up clean? If you do a thorough job of the clean and it does not fix your idling issues, then it is probably not carb dirt that caused it.

I think a bit of mythology has grown up around helmets definitely. It seems that a lot of people believe that unless you spend £400 on a helmet you may as well just go and headbutt the road now for all the good it will do, and if you so much as breathe on it then it disintegrates into a useless ball of plastic and foam. The way a helmet is designed, is to use the foam core to slow down the deceleration of your head when the shell meets something hard. It is this foam deformation that we are worried about, not a little tap on the outer shell. If you knock the helmet while carrying it, or it is dropped while in it's box, then the foam does nothing because without your head in it, it had no mass to decelerate and so will not deform. I am not saying don't bother to take care of it while you are not wearing it, after all, it is meant to protect your head, is generally reasonably expensive and generally looks better of the paint finish is not covered in scratches and chips, but you will not render it completely useless by giving it a relatively gentle knock without your head in it.

From what you have written you have no fuel getting through? Try the basics first. Fuel in the tank? Petcock selected to an 'on' position (if you have one) Are all the lines on the Petcock/fuel tap connected? Do you have a vacuum line to it? Is it connected to both the inlet manifold and the petcock? Are all the fuel lines you will have taken off to strip the engine all back on properly? Do you have a fuel filter? Is it blocked? Can you open a drain screw on the float chamber (lowest point of the carb, should have some sort of drain there) Does fuel come out?

It would work on mine as well. Saying that though, it is a lot of money for a tool that would get used once in a blue moon, and the job is not exactly hard with a normal screwdriver and a ring spanner? The handle may make it slightly easier to hold the screw absolutely still while you do up the nut, but 30 odd quid easier? not for me to just work on my own bike. (If I was a garage then yes, saving half an hour every time I did the job and doing it a lot would make it worth it)

I doubt it I have been looking on the net for the Kawasaki part number, but I cannot find it You could even just put a bit of pipe in with some joiners as a temporary fix?

The White thingy is your coolant filter It may or may not be knacked. First thing to try is to drain the coolant out (or pinch the hoses to stop it draining while you fiddle) and then pinch the clamps at either end, slide them down the tube and then using a twisting motion pull them free of the filter. Inspect the filter for cracks and if none found give it a good clean out, Even if it has a hairline crack it might be fixable with a dab of superglue? Inspect the hose ends where they slide onto the filter, odds on one has a split in it. If the split is not very long you may be able to cut the split end off and still have enough slack to connect it all back up again?

New meet being organised at the above pub. Brand new so don't expect too much in the way of organisation just yet, it is a bloke I know from a bike group on FaceBook organising it. The Postcode is OX29 0RZ is anybody is interested and the inaugural event will be on the 5th July and should start about 6 ish. Nice roads around there too Not sure how many bikes will be going, but if anybody from the area is free, it would be nice to put a name to an avatar

I am off to the Wednesday meet at the Anchor in Fladbury near Evesham tonight if anybody else is in the area and interested?

Yea, I did think about the paint fade issue, but to be fair she is in good nick paint wise and looks to have been stored under cover for the majority of her time. I realise that the actual paint these days will be a different shade (at best) but realistically I don't want to spend a fortune matching paint perfectly on a bike that, with the best will in the world is worth what? £600?

I am like you. I left home at 18 to join the RAF and could not contemplate still being at home at that kind of age. Especially as he has a good job, what is he spending his dosh on? He should have saved enough for a very good deposit years ago and buggered off and paid his own mortgage and forged his own life.

I have managed to find myself a seat cowl for my GPZ500, no idea if it will look any good when it turns up, but I shall trial fit and see if it is worth keeping. It is in a black colour though looking at the photo's, and it will need to be in Kawasaki Firecracker Red (pretty sure that my 1989 GPZ500s in red/white used that particular colour?) Does anybody know what paint codes I need to give somebody like Halfords to get a good paint match?

Congratulations mate Feels good doesn't it

If it is just discolouration mate, I would not bother. You only need to worry if it is scaling off

Just re-read your post, if all you mean is little bits of surface rust, and not flakey patches then probably the best thing to do is just make sure you have no water in your fuel, and then just make sure it always has fuel in. That will stop it rusting any further. So you can ignore my post above if it is just surface discolouration