Weebl

Personally I have NEVER got an easy out to work, and yes, I have tried an expensive one.

He needed an easy out that big as it wouldnt work gripping a small hole in the plastic, needs to bite on the metal of the plug.

Actually an easy out that size might work after it smashed the remaining plastic bits, but would you REALLY want all that crap falling into your cylinder bore?

You MAY find that with head off, there is enough of the bottom end of the plug showing to get something on it.

I have removed 1000's of screws and bolts over the years with an Easy out, so they do work. You are right of course about the size and the ceramics, he will have had to use it that size to grip on metal You are also right about the bore and the bits, no way would I do it with the head on, definitely a head off job.

Before you start drilling and worrying about helicoils, look for a tool called an Easy Out. It is basically a wrong way round screw thread.

http://cdn.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f33/2979d1313072552-need-extractor-tool-help-ez-out.jpg

What you do is drill a small hole in the centre of what you want to remove, then tap it in so it bites into the plug remains and then undo by tapping gently on the top to keep the threads engaged while turning it anti clockwise which makes the threads bite in and should allow you to undo it without any damage to the threads.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/813555667_FdNqM-XL.jpg

No need to drill the hole that big and use an easy out that big either, but he was probably being safe. Whatever you do, do not snap one of these off.

I am also a sceptic and argue with conspiracy theorists that man did go to the moon, the world will not end later this year as the Mayan calendar supposed predicts and the Holocaust did take place.

I have never considered this as a hobby but I like to play too

I love it when the tinfoil hat wearing lunatics retreat to the 'you are all brainwashed zombies, and only I know the truth' (because I read it on a free webspace website and they had pictures and really really logical and compelling evidence) argument because logic has failed them completely.

I have been surprised before because I have chatted away for months to people on forums about whatever the subject of the forum is and thought them quite normal, until their niche conspiracy comes up and they go all mental on you. Not on about just not believing the odd thing, talking about full on

http://www.the-peoples-forum.com/images/tinfoil_hat_shazam.png

I think it is Chain adjuster washer, part number 64712-33D00

But yea, I just did what Bex recommended and downloaded your parts manual It does not really look like that in the picture though, I am struggling to find the bit with the graduations on it (which is what you are after) in a picture.

RC Helicopters as well. And Shooting, not shooting at the helicopters though, they are far too expensive

I spoke to our qualified electriction at work and he said its most probably the battery not charged enough. So I've gotta charge it up and then check it with a voltmeter should be 12v.

Is that not what I have been saying?

you can't of look very well http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/186787.php

What are the symptoms of Dyslexia?

A symptom is something the patient senses and describes, while a sign is something other people, such as the doctor notice. For example, drowsiness may be a symptom while dilated pupils may be a sign.

so don't go saying someone got it wrong or making it up just because you cant find it

That is somebody using the examples of drowsiness and dilated pupils to illustrate the difference between a symptom, and a sign. Neither of those examples are symptoms or signs of dyslexia.

Dyslexia has no effect on the eyes, what it can do is make speech slurred, which may have lead the bouncer to believe he had drunk more than he had.

To the OP. While in your individual case you may have been innocent of smoking drugs, you have to see this from their point of view. They see tens of people every Saturday night who are on drugs and or likely to cause a problem. If they gave every single one the benefit of the doubt when he proclaimed his innocence and 'tested' them just so they could be let into a pub, then they would deal with about 3 people while the rest kicked each others (and random passers by) heads off all over town. They have to make snap decisions and you being argumentative will have just confirmed their initial suspicions.

I am also pretty sure that if they did not nick you at the time, then you won't be getting a criminal record. They probably just dealt with you, and then moved on.

I just wanted you advice before i go out and buy other battery as I have a/no way of recharging it

Don't go out and buy a new battery, go out and buy a battery charger.

Don't get hung up about which gear you are in. Get the speed right, get into the gear which for that speed will allow you to accelerate or complete your maneuver safely, that is the correct gear. It does not matter if it is first, second or third.

It's not like a car where somebody is sat watching you and can see exactly which gear you are in and have arbitrarily decided that X gear is correct, so if you do it in a different one you are wrong. Only you will know what gear you are in, sometimes not even you will know (dead easy to forget if you are in fourth or fifth for example, and it does not actually matter really) Don't race or labour the engine and complete the maneuvers at a safe speed, if you do that, you were in the right gear.

It's his real name.

You can do either, but a 2 stroke won't like sitting for ages idling.

A battery charger is a good purchase, they always come in handy, you can get battery conditioners for bikes which are designed to be left plugged in when the bike is not being ridden. If you bought one of them it will be useful for years, and may be the conditioner you leave on your 1000cc superbike in a few years time?

Could you even borrow a battery charger? most of the people I know who drive have one knocking around somewhere? You could even take it off the bike and connect it with a set of jump leads to your running car as a short term fix to get 12 plus volts in it.

I would not worry too much about stalling on hill starts if all the bike experience you have is one hour mate, you did well!

Even the hours you do on CBT will see you acclimatised enough to hill start I expect.

No, you don't block change like that on a bike. You can if you want but it is a sequential gearbox and is supposed to be used sequentially, you remain in much better control, and are ready to go when you need to go if you are already in the right gear, as opposed to having to count 1.2.3. as you drop it 3 gears and then let the clutch out and hope you picked the right gear.

Don't do it because you worry about what gear you are in, I had this conversation with my son and if you are riding along (or slowing down) and the engine is neither bogging nor redlining, but sat nicely where you want it to be, then does it matter if that is third,fourth or fifth? With experience you will know from the sound of the engine whether to change up or down, and you will also know when you are in top so you can stop trying to change up.

I do now and again clutch in and then drop the last 2 gears into first as I roll to a halt, but that is about it.

I'll borrow a voltmeter and check it but it's gonna have to wait until next month which is a pain in the arse! I'm tempted to buy that solenoid for £18.50 is that a good price? I don't know how much they are generally so I wouldn't know haha.

It'll probably be best if the bike starts for the m.o.t so I'm hoping it is just the solenoid that need replacing. If it isn't what else could it be? If I press the starter button now I just loose all power to the bike which Im guessing might be down to the battery being low, so next time I'll leave her running for a bit and check the battery at the same time.

Before you spend money, get the battery charged and try it.

Fault diagnosing electrical problems with a flat battery is extremely difficult even if you know what you are doing. Get to the situation where you know it has a good battery with good voltage before you start deciding things don't work.

It should charge the battery as long as the engine is running. That is one of the things you need the voltmeter for. check it with the engine off, that is what the battery is holding, should be around 12 and a bit volts. Start the engine and check again, should be around 13 and a half ish volts. not a definitive test but will give you a good indication.

It is probably not an MOT fail to not have a starter motor, but the tester does have to start the engine to test the exhaust, so he might refuse to test if you tell him he has to bounce it up and down the road. They do have a caveat saying they can refuse to test if the 'vehicle is not fit to be driven where necessary' You could always ask though and offer to bump it yourself when he needs it fired up?

Bit of an update for you all, I got the bike started by bumping it as suggested everything seems to sound okay. So would it definitely be the solenoid that needs replacing? Cause there's 2 on eBay one at £18.50 inc p&p and another for around £30.

Sounds like it. The bike starts so you know that is OK, just the starter not working so the starter solenoid is a good bet. No guarantees though, mechanics don't really work like that and electrics even more so.

As for the indicators they worked fine after the engine had been running for a while flashing at a normal rate, but if the engine is off they just stay on constantly. Could that be anything to do with the solenoid as well?

No. The starter solenoid has nothing to do with the indicators. More likely the battery you have put in is not charged fully so with the engine running you have enough power to run the indicators properly, with the engine off and all power coming from the battery you don't. Do you have a voltmeter you can check the battery voltage with?

Quite fancy one of them 1600gt BMW's and perhaps a cheeky Ss1000 for sunny Sundays

Thought I would contribute as there was a single UK winner and you never know

Pretty sure just asking for 2 bikes after the draw because you did not win was not in the rules

I did not win anyway, got one lucky star on each line, nowt else

If the solenoid is not working (which it sounds like it is not) then bump start the bike. It should still start this way. If it starts ok like that then you know you just need to buy a new solenoid.

Get it started and running before worrying too much about the indicators, if after it runs and is running they still do it, you can start looking at the relay, but having good voltage to start with may help.

Go on then, I am in, I only have 2 tickets though.

Couple of caveats for me. If I win is not really good enough, I might win £3.30 and have to buy you an Agusta so the win must be over 10 million.

No buying stupid rare 200k bikes for me either, I am not keen on people picking a bike like that just as an investment (and that is what it will be, nobody who cannot afford to buy one themselves would ever contemplate actually riding it) so I am putting a cap on of 20K (which I revised upwards so you could get your MV Agusta, although I nearly didn't when you spelled it wrong ) I am happy to buy somebody a bike they will ride and enjoy, not a garage queen or an investment.

I will have a brand spanking KTM RC8 R in Orange and White please

Karimura - MV Agusta F4-RR - Red/White

Weebl - KTM RC8 R - Orange/White

Passed my Car test in '91, passed my bike test a couple of months ago.

No points ever! (touching wood)

Not being holier than thou or anything, I have and do speed and have done an indicated 140 plus on a UK dual carriageway late at night, as well as being lucky. (same dual carriageway about 6 months later about 7 in the evening, BMW was annoying me all the way up a hill, swerving from lane to lane, acting like he was the fastest thing in the world, just generally being a tool, I overtook him off the roundabout on to the dual carriageway, nailed it up to 120 to make my point (childish yes but there you go) then eased off to about 80 until he came past me about 4 minutes later, smoke pouring from it as it rattled itself to bits, doing about 110. as he overtook the car in front of me that I had slowly caught up as I eased off it lit up like a Christmas tree as he wheezed past. undercover Police car, I was lucky)

Been pulled over a few times and given the copper a good listening to as well. I find as long as you treat the bloke with a bit of respect and actually listen to what he is saying, then as long as you were not going absolutely mental speed wise then you tend to get the better end of his ability to use discretion.

I am pretty much smack on keeping the speed down in 30's and 40's though, not only is that where you are more likely to hit somebody, that is also where you are more likely to get nicked for speeding.

Get a G shock.

It will do everything you need it to do where you are going, and it will do it well without breaking because you look at it wrong.

I have a G-100, and it stands up to dodgy environments and being smacked about and shock loaded very well. It is not flash or fancy looking, but it keeps good time, is easy to read quickly, and is cheap (£50 ish from memory?)

Dual time as well so you can have the analogue face on Local time and the digital bit on Zulu.

i got a service book but no service...

Has it supposed to have had one by now? You say it only has 340 Kilometres on it, should it have had one either by mileage or age yet. If it should have had and it has not been done then you are out of warranty.

Saying that, I just looked up Lexmoto's warranty details. Looks like it states it is not transferable (which I am not sure about, I thought it had to be under UK consumer law) and also it does not cover a lot. Basically engine block and internals.

Still, on a bike that only costs £860 brand new, you are not going to get many frills?

Best bet would be to ask the dealer to have a look at it under goodwill. Tell them you are the new owner but will of course be using them for all your servicing

Sounds to me like all you have done is turn the idle down. I am not being nasty mate but trying to fix problems that don't exist (spinning wheel on centrestand) while also trying to fix real problems will end in tears. You need to get it to somebody who knows what they are doing.

Do you have all the paperwork from the bloke you bought it off? Has it been serviced with a stamp from a mechanic if it needed it? If you have a nearly new bike with an up to date service history, you can go to the dealer and very politely insist that they sort it for you.

My advice is to stop twiddling screws on the carb without really knowing what you are doing. If it is running too rich (which is not a given) and If you did manage to lean it off, and you went 1/4 of a turn too far, it will blow up. That will then be your fault and the garage will quite rightly not do anything about it, unless you pay them for all the work required.

they told me to spray the carb i only had a bike for three or four days. i dont even know what im doing. i didnt think twist and go had clutch

Well they obviously don't want your money to fix your bike then. Take it to somebody more helpful who will.

As to twist and go, yes they have a clutch (albeit an automatic one) and it is supposed to do that if it is twist and go. How do you think the back wheel drives around when you twist the throttle? The bike does not know or care if the back wheel is on the ground, if you rev it, it will spin the wheel.

please helo when on stand the back wheel spins when revving upand stops when it calms down... on my way home it started to roar loud i need help could it still be carb??? if anyone is local to hounslow they can come and see the noise. and maybe help me with what it is...

Probably not. The spinning wheel is a dragging clutch, as long as it is not excessive then it is no problem. The loud noise is probably the exhaust, might be blowing, might be loose.

Did you take it to a mechanic?