RideWithStyles

Depends on when your helmet is needing replacement and will you go for the same one again?

the thing with Sena that i nevef understand is they are only water resistant and not water proof so there is always a potential problem and you cant claim warranty for that.

cardo are a good alternative, certain models can mesh like sena, actually water proof , most use jbl speakers which are good and is generally cheap to buy too depending on where you are.

Should be called the crimper, in a fall your only gonna have one leg left.

id rather take my chances on the bike behind.

Eyes, keep them up. Just ride safe thats all they are looking for.

good luck.

Yea had a look at the Cmx 500 rebel years ago myself for different reasons. Im 5ft 8-9 with long arms and i found the bars uncomfortable because they are high up and really far away mounted, comically high above and pushed infront of the yoke.

the if shes short armed she may find it a stretch to be comfortable shoulder and back strain. just look at hondas own glossy mag/web site with selective models, thats called a interrogation stress position in army terms.

If not other bike you finds fits but this one  the bill you might need finding and changing the handle clamps and bars first?
or rotate them like so ton up boys are harley circles. https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/harley-davidson-releases-cafe-sportster-parts/

Find one at the dealer and ask her to sit on in the riding position for at least 20 min.

All depends on the set up....

Placement, how much light and what time is light expected? And the efficiency of the panel.

whats the battery and they drains expected.

1a) lead acid connected to the bike with no particular draw (no immobiliser /alarm etc). Will be fine left alone or with a solar.

1b) lead acid with medium draw (immobiliser etc). Should be good with solar.

1c) lead acid with high draw (alarm /tracker etc). Id keep an eye on it and check its health every two weeks / month to be sure.

Leads capacity's are generally very good but they do self discharge abit quicker. 

Lithium's capacity are very poor so it doesn't take much to kill them with a draw and they cant be recovered if they drop to low volt of of below 9v. 
 

2a) lithium connected to the bike with no particular draw (no immobiliser /alarm etc). Will fine.

2b) lithium with medium draw (immobiliser etc). Solar ok but keep an eye every few weeks / month.

2c) lithium with high draw (alarm /tracker etc). Defo solar (but better would be electricity charger) and Keep an eye every week.

if you have a lithium which are fussy buggers also they dont like to freeze which spikes them "potentially explode". its a or b id personally just disconnect the battery and leave it as it is, their self discharge is extremely low. If you are wanting to stay with it connect you could just swap it out for a lead just while its winter nap and swap back out to lith for riding season.

Got this in January 2023 at J&S in leeds. Was on discount which sweetened the deal on a already less expensive than other brands jacket.

tried on the other brands-

RST was very good and was the main one i was going for but the collar especially the back was so high (you need a giraffe neck) it would catch and move the helmet, the arms / sleeves were abit too short and maybe too tight. Plus some other small details compared to the FT was lacking but not enough to not buy if it fitted better.
 

so this jacket, leather is thick and well stitched. Enough perforations and stretch panels to make comfortable for spring, summer and autumn.

the inside- inside left zipped pocket deep enough for a good sized phone. A velcro flap pocket on both left and right side is big enough got for money/cards/ med sized phone/flip, spare ear plugs etc better than the RST offering.

the thermal layer is a vest only but I find that best for a two/pushing mild 3season jacket. The best touch is that it has the same pockets as the jacket so you can still stow the same amount if it fitted. with the rst you have no pockets and they would be hidden under the thermal...why rst?

the only negatives i have found is thats its very stiff and slightly dry (from the process coatings) from the off so i spent a bit of time treating it to nikwax leather restorer which works really well, couple of goes with that as it's perfect.

the zips are abit small for big hand with gloves so i put on some zip loops on to make it easy access, but thats like £5 for 20 of the things from internet.

the jacket didn't come with a back protector so to be honest i found that a bonus as you can find the one thats fits you better without paying twice. the jacket was so cheap i could of spent upgrading the armour with 3do superior specs than the rsts offering while still being way cheaper!

helpful peeps at J&S suggested at first forcefield but i know from previous that it might not be for me, as expected i found the forcefield too hard and thick with the edges just dug in the spine so a new 3DO back protector was perfect.
the shoulders and the elbows there own brand, not bad but i had a 3do from a previous pair that were a little thinner and fitted perfectly into the pocket but the shoulders pockets a little different shaped and size so ive left the std FTs in for that. 

the last thing is if the wrists had a little bit of elastication at the edges, its not flared partially but that would have just been a nice touch.

overall im very happy with this jacket and has become my favourite.

Agree with capt.

thought the worst thing that ull have to get rid of first before you start the bike is drain the fuel out as it will have "gone off" and absorb water in the air.

they are just half a jazz engine tuned low so they aint stress and designed to be left for ages while old biddies have multiple hip ops at a time.

Only as a note but not saying its the sole problem without more info. 

Aftermarket exhausts especially with the baffle removed can make the bike run lean and have big "holes" in the power delivery.

E10 burns / ignites differently and can slowly eat or make carb rubber seals swell.

Hi and Welcome.
Yes and Poland is not shy of a few sights itself.
Im sure you'll find some interesting people that will probably introduce themselves soon.

Break this down.

19 hours ago, niallt12 said:

I was hoping someone on here could help me, I have a sinnis apache 125 that overheats straight away, bogs out if I rev it too quickly, the carb mixture screw and the idle doe not effect it and the choke seems to control the idle

Year?
Definitely an Older one with carbs?

I ll break it down. As tinkering with it may have created more problems.

heating straight away- lack of fuel. 

Bogs out when reved too quickly - now this could be viewed as both ways misinterpreted without seeing it. 1) lack of fuel starves it 2) too much fuel is thrown in drowning it.

So the choke works.
 

Have you been putting in E10 fuel?

have tou changed the exhaust from std?

My point exactly.

Yep michelins have a really stiff rim mount and side wall (every tyre fitters nightmare) but a really soft carcass and chemistry biased rubber to help reflect that.

the "PAN" is a big heavy lump which can pound the crap out of bridgestones to make it work.

dunlops have similarities to the Bridges, generally the front has a even harder carcass which is another brand favoured by the titanic crew.

If you want a softer more comfortable ride (whispers to thw mind) than the Bridgestones plus more of a sportbike profile the continentals might just be the compromise your after, while if you want more shouting and the wear has been unusual then the dunlops might be a better choice.

had continents before (plus the car) and they were on the wife's bike before, i didn't mind them too much personally after i tweaked the pressure slightly but the other half wasn't keen on them no matter what we tried so she switched to Pirellis and never looked back.

if i had to ball point them it would be between the bridges and the Pirellis for me.

ive had Metzelers fitted again, garage owner said he could of sold my tyres over 4 times over by the time i could have them fitted, after he sold the set I asked for the first time (with my permission ill add) and he had to keep reorder for some more as their so popular.

His biggest orders are Michelins & Metzelers for road customer and Pirellis for the trackers. Though he doesn't have any brand affiliation or particular discounts for incentives to be swayed, he just gets whats asked or available.

Friendly note- changing tyre brands may require tyre pressure and suspension changes to get the most out of them as ive had to reset mine for the METZ....

10 hours ago, Stu said:

Strange!

 

Maybe they didn't suit your bike/suspension setup or something but I found them very good even to the point that I contemplated re fitting a set instead of the michelins 

 

The wore fairly even too although they looked a little odd shaped towards the end 

 

 

Yesterday i saw two different bikes and type with the same wear characteristics on that tyre. 
Maybe they don't notice, care or more likely dont know any different.

so they are better suited to some base setup/needs than others.

Im more amazed on how or why jimbles brought back from the dead in the first place.

Bender maybe you should add some more wire fencing and a picture of steve mcqueen clearing the jump.

Ok.

If they wore fairly evenly but looked odd shaped, thats counter intuitive.

have you fitted them to any of your bikes after that set or recently?

seem to remember its been other makes. With characteristics completely different to a Bridgestone. 

1 hour ago, Stu said:

 

I never said they shouldn't 

 

But its an almost 10 year old thread you may as well talk to yourself so crack on 

You insinuate it doesnt also the info doesnt relate to the matter.
isnt that what other mods and users state... why not look at previous posts for there answer?

Isnt that what what partitions a forum?

if not then mayby with certain topics and threads there should be a cut off and be deleted?? Food for thought.

Nope been there and done that.

 i dont need to waste money on filling fat techno giant(s) anymore, need to and want to ride more.

Personally id go aftermarket they are much better for the cost.

Spark plug lead / coil pack.

 There are old school ways to figure this out. Feel or better yet a thermo sensor. 
the lead / cylinder will be cooler than the others if its gone. Also the feel of the vibration on the very particular cylinder if your very sensitive to that sort of thing.

when the bike is on 3 cylinder, you could just unplug a coil lead, if it goes to two then that one is ok, if it stays three its that one.

Unless you dont wish to discuss this further?

True but the info, the question and the answers are still relevant so still they should stay.. until 2030+ when manual's are very dead and autos are the only thing left.

IEven iphones struggle..  they just lolks sooo flat and lack dimension.

its amazing how the mk1 eyeball is so good even to this day of technology.

Make this short as i can go into too much detail..

from the bases of the previous tyre fitted by a terrible bike dealer Ritebike- keep it short again potentially very dangerous to buy from these badly managed and terrible technicians! You have been warned.

anyway back on the tyres- keeping it short.

front tyre.

god points, it was really cheap for the dealer it fit.

good front line braking stability.

stability is sort of there but requires alot of work to turn and get it out of the radius.

bad points.

bloody hates the cold, anything below 15 degrees its a cold hard b1tch that's uncomfortable and just doesn't wanna play ball of doing whats it's meant to without making the rider hate the piece of..... thats the carcass and the rubber made of stone.

Lower the pressure to get it warmer or to make it bearable on the road and it either tells you its gonna tuck with no really effort or it feels like its flat and doesn't wanna turn.

seriously runs out of turning leans far too soon.

 
'The rear.

pretty much the same as the front but the rear is very sensitive to suspension settings and a very strange wiggle/ slap at the 1/4-2/4 angle, doesnt matter what pressure, suspension setting, wet, dry, cold , warm it does it but worse in cold and wet conditions.

wear on the rear is really hard to tune out without pounding the cr@p out of either you our the bike. The only way to cope with the tyres needs visual needs to to turn the rebound in to much you barely have any suspension movement to cope with the bolder of the tyre to bare it.

wear was worse ive had in living memory.

Ill put up with owt but these things no fing way...

Would i buy a bridgestone again....they couldn't given them to me for free.

would I recommend this to anyone... grudgingly only my worst enemy, a politician or a proper douf nugget.

Bag of crap i hate even the sight or hearing the bloody name now.

Very nice, lovely views.

i find phone cameras don't capture the views well enough.

Yamahas seats are well known to be harder/ less padding than Triumphs but its not just the seat comfort seats are just abit thicker padding that they should of done in the first place.. does the comfort seat make to seat height higher than makes it more difficult to have full feet on the floor that some people prefer.

its all based on the other dimensions that the other components push you into that is in relation unique to your body shape and independent body parts!!!

seat height incorrect= hip, knees, back suffer.

Too high up pegs to seat hight= knees and legs suffer.
too long to reach to bars= neck, shoulders abd back suffer.

levers not correct your fingers, wrists and elbows suffer.