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pin seized on rear caliper


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Posted

trying to get my rear pads out as they are fooked, allen pin holding the pads in is not budging i have really tried giving it some oomph and it is not moving, what can i do lol ?

Posted

soak it in WD40 apply some heat use an impact gun apply more heat and WD40


it will come out just be patient :)


if you do heat it up change the brake fluid once sorted and dont heat it too much you only need to heat it a little :)

Posted

A combination of heat and freeze spray, combined with turning the pin will eventually loosen it. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Posted

also try to tighten it a little too this an also free it off


oh and grow some muscles :mrgreen:

Posted

lol at muscles comment, i tried a bigger ratchet come loose on the third attempt thanks :D

Posted

NB WD40 is not a good penetrating oil. It's great at what it does do, but there are better specific penetrating oils with all sorts of additives that will save you from shearing bolts and stripping heads and skinning knuckles. A tin in the toolbox or shed will come in handy for years. 8-)

Posted

Yeah...I used to use PlusGas or something like that....worked really well.

Replace the pin if I were you.....and a little bit of copper grease on it on reassembly, just a smear though not big lumps of it..... :lol:

Posted
Yeah...I used to use PlusGas or something like that....worked really well.

Replace the pin if I were you.....and a little bit of copper grease on it on reassembly, just a smear though not big lumps of it..... :lol:

+1.

Posted

right eab said to me i need to take the caliper of the mount and clean the bolts as they have rusted, just looked at the caliper and i canot see how it comes of, there is a rubber cup over one bolt but i cannot get the thing of, iv tried taking a spanner to the nut on the bolt but again it wont budge, not even sure what im doing is right, does that rubber cup come of with access to a bolt or does it come of by loosening that nut ?


http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/4715/p1050862t.th.jpg


http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/518/p1050863v.th.jpg


http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/5147/p1050864rr.jpg


i know the caliper is dirty im half way through cleaning it thats why it looks bad

Posted

Honda cbr125 dont have a haynes and the manual doesent say anything about taking the brakes apart

Posted

nope its bolted on solid and not moving, i tried again loosening that nut on the bottom but its not moving, il try get some better pics

Posted

that caliper should not be solid!!!


it is on slides it has to be with it been a single pot


it could be seized up on the pins!!


if it was bolted solid only one side of the brake would act on the disc (piston side) as thats the only place it would move

Posted

yeah lol i got the nut of then the plate wasent budging so tapped it with a hammer and off it came


cheers stu :D

Posted

no worries


sounds like its slightly seized too so make sure you clean it all up properly and then use grease on the slides for the caliper

Posted

yeh all cleaned up now, first pad change and the bikes done 13600 so was expecting it to be a bit dirty/seized, new pads this afternoon, get my new tyre fitted and take it for a test ride :D

Posted

new pads wont go in :( piston is to far out tried pushing it in and its not moving, please dont say iv got to strip the brakes down

Posted

In several other threads it has been suggested to remove the master cylinder lid, to facilitate the back flow of fluid, and to use a g clamp with a piece of wood to wind the piston in and protect the caliper.

Posted

managed to get the piston back in but took the bike out and it feels like the back brake is on all the time, stopped at the side of the road and the rear disc is hot to the touch, serious binding going on, not happy

Posted

You could also use the old pads to protect the pistons as you push them back in. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and tie some rag around the reservoir so that any fluid overflowing doesn't get on anything else.....then with some thing to protect the pistons (ie the old pads) lever the pistons back in.

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