Storing a bike

[Fozzie]

Suzuki's budget range like the SV650 and Bandit will rust like buggers in winter. I'd know having had an SV before, it suffered bad pitting on the forks and water pump cover!

The Honda CBR600RR I had was absolutely bullet proof except from some bolts and mesh on the front.

If you have the cash, ride it through winter and do a big service in spring and replenish corroded parts.

Mines due a Titanium bolt upgrade in spring, a re-paint of the engine casings and replacement of the front and rear pegs etc. They always get it being aluminium. So some anodized parts will be coming in to replace them as they seem to do well at surviving.

[Stu]

Suzuki's budget range like the SV650 and Bandit will rust like buggers in winter. I'd know having had an SV before, it suffered bad pitting on the forks and water pump cover!

 

 

they dont if you look after them

my brother has an 08 SV and rides it all year round the only rust he has is around the brake disc where you cant protect it properly

anything will show signs if not looked after properly

[Fozzie]

Ah theres the difference, mine was an 04 and it had some pitting before I started, but the salt on the road hitting it seemed to continually damage it to my annoyance. I kept on washing it down and protecting it but that only stops the corrosion spreading.

It's by no means bad, but it just looks as though its pitted from where the paint has been chipped off through road use.

My point is without this level of care the bike will corrode quicker

Or just dont use it in winter and avoid it all together

[mealexme]

Or just dont use it in winter and avoid it all together

thats the plan

[mealexme]

Right, I have heard its a good idea to spray the inside of the exhaust with WD-40. Is this a good idea? Will it spit fire when started up?

Are the brakes likely to have a "crusty" layer on them after 5 months? The sort that people like to sand off with fine sand paper before riding? know you get it on brand new bads but not sure about old pads that havnt been used

This is really just a list for me, but if anyone sees anything wrong, I would be greatful if they tell me haha

Fill the tank with petrol to prevent it rusting inside

Wash all the wax off that is already on it. Probably with hot water and washing up liquid as the carwash I usually use says it also contains a protective wax. The reason for washing it off is clear in a couple of steps time

Start bike up and put it through a heat cycle (not 100% sure when you know know the whole bike has warmed up, but I presume leaving it on for 5-10 minutes) to help dry it off and get rid of any water from condenstion etc in the machanics of the bike.

Turn off petcock and let it cut out to drain carbs

Leave to cool and spray all metal parts (including parts under fairings) with ACF-50 which instructs to wash all wax off the bike as it doesnt work aswell with a waxed bike. (reminder: the bike may smoke when started because of it, but it will not catch fire)

Take out battery and take it inside

Check tyre pressures

When exhaust has cooled, spray the inside of it with WD-40 to prevent rust, and then cover the hole with a plactic bag (probably heald on with elestic band) to also help prevent moisture getting in, and because the engine has been running, any moisture that was in there should have evaporated

Aprox. once a month for the following 5 months, put battery back in, take plastic off the end of exhaust (or dont, could be fun to watch it blow off) move the bike away from anything flamable and be prepared encase the WD-40 in the exhaust ignites and the exhaust blows fire after turning stopcock back on and trying not to panick that it will take a few attempts to start, nor when the bike smokes due to the ACF-50, and remember it is not flamable

Run for 5-10 minutes whilst on the bike debating whether to take it on the road uninsured or not before convinsing myself it would be a bad idea and getting back off the bike to put up with the 125 for a few more months which will hopefully warm it up and get rid of any moisture build-up and get the oils etc warmed up.

Apply both back and front brakes, aswell as turning wheels to prevent brakes seizing and tyres flat spotting, also getting rid of any rust build up as ACF-50, nor WD-40 can be used on the disks for obvious reasons

Turn stopcock back off till cut-out, wait till cool and WD-40 in the exhaust and re-seal the exhaust with a plastic bag and rubber band.

Take out the battery and take it back inside

After the 5 months (slightly less) is up:

but battery back in, plastic off the exhaust, petcock back on, warm up the bike whilst washing the tyres to get rid of any WD-40 or ACF-50 that has got on them during storage and enjoy, taking care that the brake disks may also have ACF-50 on.

Possibly sand off the crusty layer on the brake pads if they have it.

[Colin the Bear]

Don't wash your bike with detergent. Worse than salt. A cheap supermarket hair shampoo is good. Rusting needs moisture. If the atmosphere is dry then no rursting. Seal the shed and run a dehumidifier

[Throttled]

I posted this yestereday elsewhere, but it is more appropriate here. How to 'winterise your bike'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... 77BXjI5mcc

I am sure you have covered it all Alex.

[mealexme]

Don't wash your bike with detergent. Worse than salt. A cheap supermarket hair shampoo is good. Rusting needs moisture. If the atmosphere is dry then no rursting. Seal the shed and run a dehumidifier

really? what's the difference between washing up liquid and shampoo?

[mealexme]

I posted this yestereday elsewhere, but it is more appropriate here. How to 'winterise your bike'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... 77BXjI5mcc

I am sure you have covered it all Alex.

just had a watch. very useful thanks

[Bogof]

Wash all the wax off that is already on it. Probably with hot water and washing up liquid as the carwash

 

Washing up liquid attacks car paint, so at a guess it will attack motorcycle paint too.

 

The second must-know is to always use a car shampoo and not washing-up liquid.

"It is best not to use washing-up liquid on paintwork as it may be too aggressive for the lacquer, always use a car wash shampoo," Ken stated.

 

http://www.performancemotorcare.com/car-cleaning-product-news/always-use-car-shampoo-instead-of-washing-up-liquid/1067

[mealexme]

thanks for the link

[Nogin]

Never heard of a optimate knackering a battery, I have mine on all the time and ride daily never had a problem, to be fair I know I don't really need an optimate on all the time as I do ride daily but during the winter on a frosty night I want all the power I can get from the little battery!

[Fozzie]

Never heard of a optimate knackering a battery, I have mine on all the time and ride daily never had a problem, to be fair I know I don't really need an optimate on all the time as I do ride daily but during the winter on a frosty night I want all the power I can get from the little battery!

 

Leave it on without using the bike for 4-6 months solid and then last a week

[Stu]

I've never heard of an optimate a killing a battery mine is left on one all year round never had a problem

[Fozzie]

I've never heard of an optimate a killing a battery mine is left on one all year round never had a problem

 

I think it depends on the battery, as I know a bloke who dried out 2 or 3 batteries as he left the bike standing for over a year without switching it on etc at all.

He since swapped it for what he said was a proper sealed unit. And the issues have supposedly stopped

[Stu]

Hmmm honestly see it at all because as you know the optimate only puts charge in when the battery needs it so won't over charge it or cause it to boil

[Fozzie]

Yeah I know its dodgy, the only info I got on it was sketchy but it seemed to be the case as it happened to the 1989 250 in my garage at the moment. I just left it on for months and never started the bike, came back and it was dry as a bone.

So I just bought a gel battery for my bike and the 250. Will see what happens when I leave it on constantly then, as I suspect its to do with charging it back up again which the optimate does, like anything the battery wears out with lots of use so perhaps it trickle charging can be detrimental in the great long term

Though I dont know, maybe ive confused someone who was using a battery charger with an optimate user, though saying that all the chargers ive bought go into a maintenance mode or something similar. But hey ho im not going to lose sleep over it

[Stu]

like i say the optimate only puts charge in when it needs it and its not a constant trikle

im sure they only charge for 30 mins too then test a battery to see if it holds the charge before attempting another 30 min charge