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Posted

hi


i have an ongoing saga regarding the slipping clutch on my GSX1100g.


its a hydraulic unit with a diaphragm clutch.


I've replaced the spacers and friction pads (probably unnecessarily), torqued the centre bolt up to 110 Nw (manual recommends 90 - 110 - still slipped at 100) and was ok for a day then started slipping again.


I have new springs coming this week - not sure if the springs are meant to keep the centre bolt in place as well as squeezing the plates together, or to purely for the plates.


If not designed to keep the bolt in place, I was going to use a drop of threadlock.


anyone foresee a problem with this? i will be using it sparingly

Posted (edited)

Shouldn,t need it, should be a locking washer on it. Threadlock won,t do any harm unless you wanna undo it again.

Edited by megawatt
Posted

Is the bolt coming undone? And does it state to use thread lock? If not don't bother

Posted

book doesn't mention threadlock, i'm just running out of ideas.


looks like this: http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx1100-199 ... ml#results


no locking washer, my clutch is exactly the same as the diagram and is torqued as per the manual.


last thing to change are the springs - part no 15 - ordered them today.


only slips once heated up, like 40 miles into a journey.


have replaced all the 9's and 10's and put 10w40 part synth halfords oil. also bled the clutch after refitting everything.


suppose the only thing it can be is them springs.

Posted

I would wait for the new springs and see how it is with them my bike can suffer with clutch slip once warm and you have to put heavy duty springs in to stop it


I wouldnt put thread lock on it doesn't need it

Posted

Item 6B looks like a locking washer. If it is thin, tighten clutch nut , with washer just under nut, to specified torque or until you fart. Bend washer towards nut an two or three sides and squeeze against nut with a pair of molegrips. You shouldn't need threadlock. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: PM your number for a chat?

Posted

hmm, i haven't touched 5,6,6a or B, mainly because I needed some specialist tool to lock the clutch up to loosen 5.


just went as far as swapping the plates and spacers out.


if the springs dont fix it...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

for anyone still following this, it turned out to be the return hole into the master cylinder reservoir was blocked when the hydraulic fluid went off and turned to jelly, plus the master cylinder piston was not returning to rest properly to allow fluid back into the res, plus the friction plates were worn.


so a combo

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