Gngnut Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 (edited) hi guys i very new to big boys bikes and this is my 1st project on a mootor bike,what I Bought was gsx750f with some modifactions on it, the last owner had the bike for 9 years and has been sorn form 2003 he has added kn filers exust and some other bits, i have managed to rewire the rear lights back so i can put all the faring back on the bike, and have started to rewire the front, i have a few problems in what he had done. as im want to put the gsx back to thw way it was i am missing some vital cables as he had cut them off, hence the rewiring, my bigest problem currently is trying to get it started and im a little confused about some hoses that are showing but no details in the book about them its vacum feed and not pulling fule down into the carbs have 4 carbs and each pair are connected by a T peice which should have a hose but i dont know were this ones are ment to goalso have a main hose that is coming from the top of the engine block again unsure about this one (belive it should have connected to the old filter system, if any one can help i would be very great full as im looking to get this bike up and running by feb 2013 at the lateset, also any good sites were i could get the connection cable / wireloom for the instrument panel, i have bought a few wire looms from ebay but none seem to have this conector on it. kind regardscraig bike pictures -- gallery/album.php?album_id=115 Edited November 10, 2012 by Gngnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megawatt Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Firstly , welcome to the forum mate.Have you got a Haynes manual. Look at wiring diagrams and pictures of carbs etc. Post pix on here with your questions and we will try to help.The hose from the top of the engine is a breather hose that connects into the airbox. You don't need to connect it to anything if nothing comes out of it, possibly a catch can?The carbs are fed via a hose between 2 and 3 carbs. Sometimes you need a vacuum connection from the cylinder head inlet stub to open a vacuum fuel tap if fitted.Try joining "oldskoolsuzuki" forum , they know everything Suzuki, but it is difficult to get on the forum.I am not far from T Wells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattycoops43 Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Welcome aboard mate.Good luck with the resto.Be prepared, you can get them running and roadworthy for a pittance, but putting back to original can cost a lot of money, there's always some widget that you can only get from suzuki that cost body parts!Pics please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Ty for the welcome and reply any Ideas why i cant get a spark ??checked the leads and have volt check cables they seem to be fine,unsure how to test the box that the leads go into. << any pointers please :) also still trying to work out how to get ful into carbs i can twist thortle all day long and fule just desnt seem to get there ???I have bleed the carbs. Pictures will follow shrotly as i have rip alot of the crap off he put on it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 if the bike has been stored since 2003 you will need to remove them and clean them up inside the float bowl as the chances are they will be blocked with old stale petrol residue. the fuel wont get down to the carbs if you have vaccum fuel tap unless the engine is turning over check the tap it will have marked on it on res prime put it into the prime position as that way it doesnt need vaccum to allow the petrol to flow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 bike has been store but turned over regualy,,I have managed to get it starting but is still cutting out after a few seconds still bleeding the carbs try to get out any air with in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 you wont have any air in the system for the carbs as its not a pressureised system i would say the carbs need removing from the bike stripping down and the jets all cleaning out and the rubber diaphrams checking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 just update on this bike is running with the chock on about 1/4 if i lower the chock engine stalls if i open the throtle it stalls, Is this an air intake problem ? (I have k&n Filters installed) and i dont think he had the mixture done as of yet, I have haynes manual (gsx 98 - 02) and looking for the mixture screws but not were they say they are any one know ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 are the mixture screws in the underside of the carbs inset into the castings? if it will only run with 1/4 choke and stall if you touch anything then you need to pull the carbs out of the bike and clean the jets inside the float bowls until you take the carbs off and clean them up it is doubtfull you will get it to run right at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 havent been able to find them the screws yet.. dont relly want to take carbs off if i can help it. as its not an easy job any other ideas 1st please :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbarry Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 You could try carb cleaner, but that won't address cracked rubbers. Sounds like you have too much air getting in to me, that's representative on cracked rubbers. Not always the case tho. These things can be caused by so many things its hard to guess over the internet and some one will just happen to be the lucky guesser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattycoops43 Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Bottoms of carbs need taking off and the tops (don't split the carbs apart from each other) and a thorough cleaning, it will not run right without. I have had cracked diaphrams on a suzuki and it would not rev past about 6k but would tickover and pull fine, it just stops the slides lifting properly at the top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbarry Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 It's not that big a job, just give them a clean and you won't look back, it's never a bad idea and you may find other things whilst you're there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 update !! i bit the bullet and riped the carbs off and gave them a good clear lots fo green crap inside them all put the back on went to bleed them and relised i have put 2 of the lids on the wrong carbs LOL to late and dark to change and wil look to do this tomorrow.thanks for all the advice guys very helpfull @ mr barry how would i tell if the rubbers are cracked just visual ??as all I have done take the lid of clean in side and didnt touch the rubber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattycoops43 Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 You don't bleed carbs. They have floats that should make sure the correct level of fuel is in there. Did you check the float height while the bottoms were off? They should be within 0.5mm of each other.Diaphrams will have cracks that are visible to the eye if knackered, if they look ok they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megawatt Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 To check for leaking/cracked carb rubbers. Get bike running on a fast tickover. Make sure no stray sparks around plug caps and leads, then spray rubbers with WD40. If leaking, tickover will change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 @mattycoops43so all i do to fill the carbs is place it on PRI and this will do that automaticly ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattycoops43 Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 yes, should do, on prime, will do it without turning engine over, although that will probably speed it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbarry Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 You can also spray the rubbers with brake cleaner rather than wd40, it has the same effect of drastically reducing idle speed if there is a leak but it doesn't need to be cleaned off again as it dries off in seconds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 this is going to be a bit cheeky. Any one have a compressor and spray gun I can borrow at a later date once i have the bike running correctly ??or can come over and give me a hand Re-spraying all the faring am based in Tunbridge Wells.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 update cleaned and put back on the carbs -- good thing is it starts 1st time now :) still not running correctly i can hear a hising sound and evey now and then like a phsss sound form the air filter area so im thinking miture needs to be sorted, and possible biger jets,, any advice is welcome :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbarry Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Pay a professional to set the furling up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 looking at the air filters fitted to it then it will need larger jets fitted to compensate for the extra amount of air it is pulling in,how much bigger they need to be is a case of trial and error,first thing is look on the side of the main jets currently fitted and see what size they are then you know if it has already been upjeted or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gngnut Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 the default sizes of jets that book outlines is 1 and 4 1202 and 3 117.5im confidant that he hadnt changed these due to the state of the ones in the carbs but will be checking, just wondering what sort of sizes i would be looking at as all this is way above my head. and would i need to new jet needles thiner / smaller / anything ?? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 shouldnt need new needles unless there is a lot of wear present on them and jet up sizing can be very much a case of trial and error trying bigger jets see if it better and so on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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