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Posted
what I would do is weld a nut on to it which will give you something to turn it with plus the heat will help it come off :)

 

+1 :wink:

Posted
what I would do is weld a nut on to it which will give you something to turn it with plus the heat will help it come off :)

 

+1 :wink:

 

Of just use a stud extractor!!!


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Posted
what I would do is weld a nut on to it which will give you something to turn it with plus the heat will help it come off :)

 

+1 :wink:

 

Of just use a stud extractor!!!


">

 


tempted to buy on of these, do they differ in quality ive seen them for various prices on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-3986-6- ... 256e948e7a


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-8-Drive-Imp ... 5d358983d3


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-8-Impact-Br ... 3383f29e4f


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271178764849

?????

Posted

its the kind of thing you dont use very often, but handy to have about..

Shop around, you can find cheaper ones. Cheap tools are often poor investment..

maybe find a 2nd hand one??


I still use my granddad's WW2 stud extractors.. he used them on Halifax Bomber engines!

Posted

Seen a pair on demon tweaks for £45 quid that can be used for regular or impact tools. Might wait and see what I can do with the plus gas first

Posted

well youve all give me more ways to skin a cat so thanks everyone I stand a better chance. will keep everyone up to date. Who knows if i keep a swear box when im doing it I maybe able to buy you all a pint next meet! :lol:

Posted

i filed down the bolt flat on both sides but it looks like ive got less bolt than i thought about half an inch! im hoping a bolt extractor will do it. having trouble getting grippers round it due to the engine block and its too small for a c spanner. extractor next then i might have to look at buying a torch great. going to soak it in plus gas till the extractor turns up.

Posted

had another idead whilst i wait for my tool to come, the exhaust is bolted by two bolts diagonally. on the engine block there are two opposite blank spaces where it could be drilled, threaded for two new bolts going diagonally in the opposite direction which would work fine. how hard would this be to do? would i need a special drill bit for the engine block? any recommendations for a threading tool? is it something a garage could do cheap??

Posted

Before we comment can we have a photo?..


Taping a hole isn't that difficult....you first have to make sure you drill the correct size hole to tap....then you have to proceed slowly and carefully....If you look on youtube Im sure you will find a video of how to drill and tap a hole...

Posted

Hmmmmm....I wouldn't.......you'd need to make sure you drilled the hole perfectly square to the manifold surface....which, without taking the head off and holding it on a Pillar Drill or likewise would be near impossible..... :shock:


Personally I'd carry on with the PlusGas and heat and wait for the stud extractors...... :wink:

Guest Hodgy
Posted
ive also seen these could i use something like this rarther than buying a new threading tool?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-STEEL-RIV ... 3f087a9cfe

 

No, that won't work, they're for hollow spaces.


I really wouldn't think about drilling and tapping the engine, without the proper equipment it'll end in tears :crybaby:

Posted
ive also seen these could i use something like this rarther than buying a new threading tool?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-STEEL-RIV ... 3f087a9cfe

 

No, that won't work, they're for hollow spaces.


I really wouldn't think about drilling and tapping the engine, without the proper equipment it'll end in tears :crybaby:

 


bloody hell, well the blanks there surely a garage could do it.

Guest Hodgy
Posted

Yep it could be done, but like previously said, it would require the head to come off and a piller drill to do a proper job.


It would be much easier to drill out the existing stud and tap a new thread if necessary :thumb:

Posted
Yep it could be done, but like previously said, it would require the head to come off and a piller drill to do a proper job.


It would be much easier to drill out the existing stud and tap a new thread if necessary :thumb:

 


sounds good, could i use a strong small drill bit to drill the bolt out in pieces to try to save the thread??

Posted (edited)

 

Go back and have a look at what Megawatt suggested....get a small blowlamp and you should be able to heat up around the broken stud....with patience you should be able to get it out...When I was in the trade I always used to actually slightly tighten it before I undid it crack the seal as it were...Don't try to get it out all in one go....you need to "wiggle" it out 1/2 a turn forward and 1/4 turn back each time...

Edited by acting_strange
Guest Hodgy
Posted
Yep it could be done, but like previously said, it would require the head to come off and a piller drill to do a proper job.


It would be much easier to drill out the existing stud and tap a new thread if necessary :thumb:

 


sounds good, could i use a strong small drill bit to drill the bolt out in pieces to try to save the thread??

 

I doubt it, sorry! If you could drill a hole dead center of the stud, you could use some screw extractors to get the stud out, BUT if it snaps off you're going to be in a worse position than ever!


I'd use plus gas a few times, then run the engine till it's red hot, and put some mole grips on the stud and try screwing it out, hopefully it'll free it off :thumb:

Posted

 

Go back and have a look at what Megawatt suggested....get a small blowlamp and you should be able to heat up around the broken stud....with patience you should be able to get it out...When I was in the trade I always used to actually slightly tighten it before I undid it crack the seal as it were...

 

i know thats what the plus gas says but its very hard to get any sort of leverage from any angle, if the bolt extractor can get hold of it i have a chance. i need to buy a blow torch but at this point its starting to add up, oh the joys!

Posted

I've had a drill bit snap off while trying to drill out a seized screw......and if there's one thing that you can't drill out.....it's another drill bit, or the remains of one..... :shock:

Posted

yes your right, the bolts on my grab rail where sheared when i got it and i tried an easy out tool but the drill bit broke on that. in the end i had to angle grind it off!!

Posted

will try it again with the extractor if not ill get a burner if that fails its to the garage or i wait until i sell the bike on and tell the next guy!!

Posted

can anyone recommend a basic burner, ive seen a lot of rubbish. cant afford a pro job but something that will do the job.

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