Josh Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 I got on my bike today and straight away realised the neutral light didn't come on. Shortly after i started my bike i realised my headlights and brake lights were also out so I headed home again and now also my starter button is completely unresponsive. My indicators still work fine so does the indicator light on my dash but the rest is completely out.. My bike started very easily with a bump start (obviously without even needing to touch the starter button).Can anybody help me at all, what's gone on? It's clearly relevant to note also that yesterday the last time I rode my bike was on a very bumpy surface so it was getting throw about a bit (speedbumps and extremely uneven mud/gravel) and also went through a few puddles so some electrics could of possibly got wet too.Thanks a lot for any replies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Turns out I have a blown fuse, I put the spare fuse in and it blew instantly after turning the key and the electrics coming on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tango Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Yep....sounds like you've got a short circuit somewhere.....but without a wiring diagram I can't really help you too much.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 So I should probably check all the connection for water/loose connections? I've got a multimeter but I wouldn't know at all what to do with it in this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennie Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 you'll need a handful of fuses!You can check for continuity from one endof a cable to the other, with the meter on the ohms setting,(usually buzzes).Also,on the same setting, you can check for anything that is connectedto earth that shouldn't be.Also have a good look for damaged/burnt cables.If it is only moisture a liberal spray with WD40 might help.If all else fails disconnect things one at a time until it stops blowing fuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 If the multimeter can be set to measurte AMPS then the two leads could be put across where the fuse should be to measure the amps drawn. Then each multiplug could be disconnected one at a time until it dropped to zero which would narrow down where the fault lies... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 I don't really know where to start with the multimeter, all i've done so far is taken some wd-40 to it with no success and another blown fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennie Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 ok turn the dial to the right, almost to the bottom.that looks like the buzzer function.touch the 2 meter leads together it should buzz.now seperate the leads put one lead on a cable and hold.use the other lead to test various locations, if it buzzesthere's a connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4262 Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 if you aren't sure how to use the multimeter maybe a google? top hit is: http://www.ehow.com/how_7585821_use-dig ... 9205a.html and that's a basic overview. you probably want to try the front and read lights first as they are one of the more exposed to water. Multi meter might not even be needed if there are any obviously wet/exposed/loose electricals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 ok turn the dial to the right, almost to the bottom.that looks like the buzzer function.touch the 2 meter leads together it should buzz.now seperate the leads put one lead on a cable and hold.use the other lead to test various locations, if it buzzesthere's a connection. But all that is doing is checking continuity and if its blowing fuses like this its not a contimnuity problem...in fact it has too much "continuity"...usually a direct connection to an earth resulting in a high current flow and blown fuse...disconnecting all the connections and then connecting them up one by one is a better way of testing it...when it blows you have an idea of which colour wire you need to be checking for short.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennie Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 so if he finds something connected to earth that shouldn't beor 2 leads connected together that shouldn't be he's found the problem There is no right or wrong way to fault find I'm trying to do the simplest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 so if he finds something connected to earth that shouldn't beor 2 leads connected together that shouldn't be he's found the problem There is no right or wrong way to fault find I'm trying to do the simplest. Sorry mate....I wasn't saying you were wrong...I just dont think that is the way to go....but that is my MV experience speaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennie Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 I agree! If I was there, with the meter and my eyes,nose etc. I would probably do things completely differently.The OP says he doesn't know what he's doing so I'm tryingto make things as simple as possible.I'm more used to thousands of volts and lots of Megawattsnowadays but I did know about this stuff once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Thanks a lot for all of the helpful replies. Am I safe in saying it isn't the starter motor if the fuse blows before I press the starter button? The only things that come on are the dash lights and headlights automatically come on. So if I can find a way to disconnect the headlights then it might be able to narrow it down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 do your lights have an on/off switch?....some do some don't...if its blowing before you press the starter then we need to work out what circuits are being used at Ignition on...starting circuit obviously...I could do with a citcuit diagram....I'll see if I can find one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Nope they don't have an on off, only a high beam/low beam.Just in case these are helpful at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tango Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 So it's the Head/Tail fuse that keeps blowing?If that's the case remove both bulbs and try again......it's rare but not unheard of for a bulb to go short circuit......and if that don't do it you are then faced with checking all the lighting wiring to see if it's shorting down to the frame or to each other..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 Ive found the XL125 wiring diagram... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I also found this http://s574.photobucket.com/user/hmmmnz1/media/Honda/xr125color.jpg.html?sort=3&o=22http://s574.photobucket.com/user/hmmmnz1/media/Honda/xr125color.jpg.html?sort=3&o=22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 yes that's what is blowing, the 15a tail/headlight/horn fuse. I removed the whole front part (headlight section) and checked the wiring behind there and found something which could be causing a problem. basically the big wire here (which I assume is the connection to headlights switch and whatever else) it looks like the earth wire here has caused the plastic to melt around it (not sure if this is a problem) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 yes that's what is blowing, the 15a tail/headlight/horn fuse. I removed the whole front part (headlight section) and checked the wiring behind there and found something which could be causing a problem. Your piccy isnt clear enough....but if yoiu have melted wires than that will be at least part of your problem...you need to find out how much is burnt and where it goes...Isolate it... then repair/replace it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennie Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I can't see properly either!Is that sheath split or melted?are there bare wires inside it?seperate each individual wire and insulate them if you canthen see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Haha yeah sorry I couldn't really get to it properly. I seem to of narrowed my problem down to being the low beam headlight, I found the bulb was blown and took it out - I flicked the headlights up to high beam and everything was fine, went down to low beam and as it has done before, lasted about 3 seconds then blew the fuse, however this can't be because of the bulb because I had already taken it out so simply replacing the bulb won't help, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tango Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 If the fuse blew with the bulb removed then it can't be that.....if I'm reading your response properly.....so it would be in the dip beam circuit......so follow that through...... I did have a problem one time with a bike where the wiring or switch was shorting down to the bars......a bit of insulation tape around the bars where the switchgear located sorted this out..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acting_strange Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 If the fuse blew with the bulb removed then it can't be that.....if I'm reading your response properly.....so it would be in the dip beam circuit......so follow that through...... I did have a problem one time with a bike where the wiring or switch was shorting down to the bars......a bit of insulation tape around the bars where the switchgear located sorted this out..... And according to the circuit diagram the low beam wire is coloured white.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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