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Posted

ok, have the replacement rad for my cbr now...just looking for a basic walk through from those in the know, incase theres anything ive missed.

think I know the theory, and ive bought a new crush washer for the drain bolt....plan on leaving the hoses attached to the engine, just undo them from the actual rad and swap them over.

will I need anything else I havnt thought of , and apart from the obvious ( ie drain the system before I start ) , roughly whats the step by step ?

Posted

You'll need a swear box......if those hoses haven't been removed from the rad in 15 odd years there's a good chance they're not gonna come off without a fight..... :wink:

Posted

Pop the bottom hose off (water everywhere) pop the top hose off, unbolt the rad from the bike, and fit new one.

Hopefully the old hoses haven't gone too hard.


warm the engine a bit to help make the pipes supple. Also not so cold on your hands when the water pours over them.

Posted

:stupid:

If the new rad doesn't have the fan fitted to it you'll need to swap that over...and also check for any sensors that may be fitted to the rad.

When the new rad is fitted you need to fill it with coolant and crack the drain ports at the water pump and cylinder jacket to release any airlocks in the system. You can squeeze the hoses while filling too to "burp" the system....again, to release any airlocks..... 8-)

Posted

the new rad has a fan, just need to sort the wiring out.

why would I get water everywhere if I drain the system first ??

Posted

Hi Cat, take some pic's on your mobile phone or camera as you strip it out, you can then review if you should loose your way. Just to mention also disconnect the battery, l would remove the tank this will throw additional light onto the job and protect the your paintwork. make sure you have a good earth connection on the rad or you will have problems with the temperature sensor, On refilling the system make sure you open the vent screw on the water pump. Have fun!

Posted

vent screw?? havnt seen mention of that ...only the drain bolt thingy ( got a new crush washer as it says to remove it completely and drain the system before swapping the rad) although not sure if that's necessary now listening to you lot :)

Posted
vent screw?? havnt seen mention of that ...only the drain bolt thingy ( got a new crush washer as it says to remove it completely and drain the system before swapping the rad) although not sure if that's necessary now listening to you lot :)

Hi Cat there should be a 8mm drain - vent bolt on the water pump on the lower left of the engine. Open this to drain the system and when refilling open this bolt again to vent the air out of the water pump, if you don't vent the pump you will end up with an air lock in the pump resulting in no circulation and the motor over heating.

I found a video clip here it's not your bike but l think the pump is almost identical

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Posted

So long as the water pump is below the level of the bottom hose you can swap out the rad without having to drain the whole system. Water remains in the pump so no need to prime the pump.

Although if you Dont know how long the coolant has been in there its probably a good idea to drain it all out.

Posted
vent screw?? havnt seen mention of that ...only the drain bolt thingy ( got a new crush washer as it says to remove it completely and drain the system before swapping the rad) although not sure if that's necessary now listening to you lot :)

Hi Cat there should be a 8mm drain - vent bolt on the water pump on the lower left of the engine. Open this to drain the system and when refilling open this bolt again to vent the air out of the water pump, if you don't vent the pump you will end up with an air lock in the pump resulting in no circulation and the motor over heating.

I found a video clip here it's not your bike but l think the pump is almost identical

">

 

ah ok, so vent screw/drain bolt = same thing...phew, thought id completely missed something there lol

Posted
So long as the water pump is below the level of the bottom hose you can swap out the rad without having to drain the whole system. Water remains in the pump so no need to prime the pump.

Although if you Dont know how long the coolant has been in there its probably a good idea to drain it all out.

 

would rather drain it and flush it, as some very helpful mates chucked a bottle of rad weld in, ( which did do the job)

rather clean the lot and start again

Posted
Can't believe no one has mentioned the fan ;-)

Ahem......see the post above.... :wink: :lol: :lol:

 


bugger missed that :oops: :lol: :lol:

Posted
So long as the water pump is below the level of the bottom hose you can swap out the rad without having to drain the whole system. Water remains in the pump so no need to prime the pump.

Although if you Dont know how long the coolant has been in there its probably a good idea to drain it all out.

 

would rather drain it and flush it, as some very helpful mates chucked a bottle of rad weld in, ( which did do the job)

rather clean the lot and start again

 

I'd be tempted to run a hosepipe into rad hose and run the engine to flush the system out.

With the rad removed, run the hose pipe into one hose and allow the water out the other.

Posted
I'd be tempted to run a hosepipe into rad hose and run the engine to flush the system out.

With the rad removed, run the hose pipe into one hose and allow the water out the other.

 

hahahahaha, I like your style.

Can I be videoing it when we do this?

Posted
I'd be tempted to run a hosepipe into rad hose and run the engine to flush the system out.

With the rad removed, run the hose pipe into one hose and allow the water out the other.

 

hahahahaha, I like your style.

Can I be videoing it when we do this?

 

ermmm....whadya mean we? , im guessing if your videoing , theres only one person getting wet here lol

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