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Chain Splitting.


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Sure, you could have your dealer or local shop swap chains for you, but then you'd miss myriad chances to get greasy and pinch off a digit

or two. Assuming you're still interested, here's the easy way to break and replace endless chains.


Yes, naturally, there are tools. We use Motion Pro's Jumbo Chain Tool, because it's versatile, rugged and, well, we have one. These days,

the chain manufacturers are trying to get owners and service establishments away from clip-style master links in favor of riveted links in

the belief that riveted items are stronger and more durable. (We tend to agree.)


You've got to get the old chain off first. The vast majority of modern bikes come with endless (no master link) O-ring chains, and this

type of chain requires removal of a roller pin to get the chain off the bike. (Yeah, you could remove the swingarm, but what are you.


some kinda masochist?) Find an unobstructed run of the chain and set the tool in place 1.


Sometimes it's even easier to bust a link on the rear sprocket. For clarity, we're showing the pin extended from the mandrel where it

contacts the pin; you will want to wind the head right up against the side plate, and wind the center pin in from there. Some chains may

require grinding of the pin head beforehand, but the mighty Motion Pro tool had its way with this #525 chain with no problem.


Push the pin all the way through 2,


3. and separate the links.


Don't let the chain fall off the sprockets just yet. Grab the new chain and temporarily insert the master/rivet link between it and the

old chain 4.


Carefully roll the new chain first over the countershaft sprocket, up along the upper run and then over the rear sprocket, letting the old

chain coil out of the way 5.


Sometimes you're lucky and the new chain will be just the right length; sometimes you're not. Hold the ends of the chain overlapping to

determine how many links to remove 6.,


paying particular attention to which pin you'll need to remove to expose the female link. Be sure you've readjusted the rear axle to the

forward one-third of its travel; you don't think the chain is going to get shorter do you? Remove the excess links by pushing the pin out

the same way you did with the old chain.


Dig the rivet link out of the box along with the supplied moly grease. Apply the grease liberally to the link pins and insert the first

pair of O-rings over the pins. You'll be sliding this link in from the back 7.,


and it may be easier to join the chain on the back sprocket while you do this. Next you have to press the side plate in place; the Motion

Pro tool includes a cool die for this purpose. Tighten the tool until the link is approximately the same distance from the rollers as the

adjoining, permanent links 8.


(Too tight and you'll bind the O-rings; too loose and the grease will escape, and the peened ends of the pins will not be deep enough.)


Next is riveting. With the Motion Pro tool, you must remove the extricating pin and fit the riveting head and buck; the dimpled end fits

into a hole in the fixed part of the tool. (Don't panic. This is in the instructions that come with the tool.) Align the button end with

the backside (fixed) face of the rivet pin carefully and crank down 9.



The pin ends should mushroom nicely 10.,


but not so far that they're driven flush with the side plates. Check for freedom of movement along this link, double-check the adjustment

and you're done. (Now go wash your hands.)

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Gary?


You got any pictures to help please?


Vicki.

 

Dont be silly :lol: how can you publish whats in your head, :shock:


plus all the write-ups i do are from the tinternet,you dont think i could type all that lot out only learned my three R's at school


reading riting rithmatic :lol:


i'll get searching and see what i can find, :wink:

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