Bogof Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Anyone know anything worth knowing about eccentric chain adjusters? Quote
Stu Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Just the same as others really Adjust then recheck when everything is tightened up One thing to watch is that the hub is greased to stop it seizing I have seen this on a few! Quote
Bogof Posted August 30, 2015 Author Posted August 30, 2015 Adjust then recheck when everything is tightened up One thing to watch is that the hub is greased to stop it seizing I have seen this on a few! Thanks for the tip.I do have a question... If tension is correct at, say, 2 o'clock, then it'd also be correct at 5 o'clock. Which is more correct? 2 or 5? Quote
Stu Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Which is more correct? 2 or 5? when you have the correct amount of tension Quote
Bogof Posted August 30, 2015 Author Posted August 30, 2015 Which is more correct? 2 or 5? when you have the correct amount of tension And if the tension is correct at both 2 and 5? As it would be, logically. I'm thinking angle of attack... which would be different at 2, as opposed to 5. Quote
Stu Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 the difference would be minimal and you wont notice any difference Quote
fullscreenaging Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Talking about chain tension.......Yamaha state in my user handbook that my chain should be between 5-15mm on the centre stand. That makes the chan like a banjo string when the swing arm is under tension.This has created a big discussion on the Mt09 Tracer group that I am a member of on Facebook The general consensus is that Yamaha are way out on their setting and the best setting is 20-30mm on the centre stand. After reading all this I set mine to 20mm and what a difference it has made.No more vibration from the handle bars. No more vibes from the gear stick. No more weird noises coming from the gear box. Yamaha, we think you've got it massively wrong! Quote
Stu Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Sounds like they have made a huge mistake just like suzuki did with the tl! Suzuki say 20 to 25mm but under load it causes the chain to tighten and stop the suspension working properly If I was you Deso I would check the tension with some weight over the rear Quote
fq-craigus Posted August 31, 2015 Posted August 31, 2015 Its like suzuki with the gsxr, you release hub nut set slack then when you do it back up it tightens the chain, doesnt say anything about that in the manual. Quote
fullscreenaging Posted August 31, 2015 Posted August 31, 2015 Sounds like they have made a huge mistake just like suzuki did with the tl! Suzuki say 20 to 25mm but under load it causes the chain to tighten and stop the suspension working properly If I was you Deso I would check the tension with some weight over the rear Yeah, I'm gonna do a practice load up of the bike this week and see what sort of slack I'm getting and adjust if need.Germany next week! [emoji41] Quote
GaryJM Posted August 31, 2015 Posted August 31, 2015 Deso when I do mine I just check the slack is as per the manual.I also slacken mine off on a regular basis as the Triumph one is prone to seizing and that's the way it's been recommended to avoid this.A hub strip is part of the major service ever other year as well. Quote
Stu Posted August 31, 2015 Posted August 31, 2015 Deso when I do mine I just check the slack is as per the manual. thats Deso's problem doing it by the manual causes tight tension when the weight is back on the bike! Its like suzuki with the gsxr, you release hub nut set slack then when you do it back up it tightens the chain, doesnt say anything about that in the manual. yup another common problem swapping the axle around so the nut is on the left helps the problem when you tighten the nut it can pull the axle further back Quote
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