2005 Triumph Daytona 650 Help needed

[Tyson675]

Hi all....

While on a ride earlier with my mate on his aforementioned bike it just cut out.

His battery has been dead so when he bumped it off his EML light was on for a 10min ride but the bike was riding fine.

Then when doing around 80 in 6th gear it just does as if out of fuel?

Even when we tried bumping it nothing. It would fire then just die as if there was no throttle working?

When he puts ignition on now too there's nothing but the very faint neutral green light on the dash.

Any ideas guys?

[Stu]

try charging the battery to start with then load testing it to see if it is holding charge

if not replace the battery

you also need to check the charging system on the bike to make sure its working properly

[RTwo]

Maybe hook it up to TuneECU and look at the TPS?

[eastanglianbiker]

they hada lot of problems with the alternators on them check out the charging system

[Tyson675]

Tried fitting a new battery, but when removing the old one he had a look at the fuses under the seat and found one blown for the engine, he fit the new battery, replaced the blown fuse, put the ignition on and the fuse just blew again before he even hit the starter so it looks like we have a short somewhere.

Let the wire chasing begin!

[Tango]

Check the Reg/Rec and stator windings.......as EAB says, these bikes seem to suffer a lot of problems with the charging circuit......

[Abraxix92]

Check the Reg/Rec and stator windings.......as EAB says, these bikes seem to suffer a lot of problems with the charging circuit......

 

This i went through 2-3 batterys before i realized it was this with the help from the forum.... <3

[Rik398]

I had that bike, and had the exact same problem.

Due to it being Fuel Injected, the dying battery will cause problems.

It is worth testing the battery, as it COULD just be the battery, but, as has already been mentioned, these bike are notorious for charging system problems (I know right... you only hear about that once you have had one)

At the end of this will be a link to a few of the things that I used at the time. Essentially, the below is a summary of the situation.

So, the charging system consists of

1) The stator / alternator

2) The regulator / rectifier

3) The connections between these components

Chances are it is the charging system, and there are many tests that you can do, which I will link you to in this post. Essentially, the only way out with this particular bike, to be fully confident it doesn't happen again (I went through 3 stators learning this) is to replace the whole lot and upgrade it as you do so.

1) The regulator / rectifier.

There are many porblems with this on this bike. Firstly, it is a shunt type system. These are not as efficient as the new MOSFET type systems, which generally work a lot more efficiently and produce less heat, and are overall less likely to fail. You can buy a MOSFET regulator and put it in place. Literally plug and play in most cases. I believe you can use them from a CBR600 or similar.

Secondly, the location of the regulator / rectifier. This is in a fairly bad place in this bike, right with all the heat if the engine. It is worth considering re-locating it where it can get some air, or at least be away from all that heat.

2) The connections between components.

Essentially, the stator is wired into the battery to charge it, and the battery is wired into the bike. Except thats not quite how it is when it comes out the factory. From the factory, the stator is connected to the loom, which means the voltage the stator produces to charge the battery has a much more conveluted journey, and has many potential dodgy connections to go through. As part of the upgrade process, wire the stator directly to the battery, with better quality wiring. This ensures a direct solid connection, and bypasses any potential issues that may or may not be else where.

3) The stator.

This is a slightly more tricky one. It could burn out because of the above two issues. There is also rhumour that the magnetic rotor that surrounds it, is to powerful for the stock wiring, and therefore burns out the stator. As a result, you will see a stator and rotor kit online, which claims to prevent the rotor from burning out. Now, this could be the case, it could also be a load of rubbish, as really there are too many vairables for the average diyer to test it. And you will have to DIY this, as if you take it to a dealer and they decide to use stock component, you are looking at mega ££. High 3 figures.

LINKS

http://www.triumphrat.net/triumph-super ... ssues.html

I reccomend that you start there. On the same site, there is a full on guide to fixing it, but this is where I started and talks about some of the checks etc.

I will also mention, that I did all of the above, and still had issues. It was much, much improved, but as bike is my only form of transport, it had to go. It was sad, as mechanically, they are sound and as reliable as you will get, but clearly not suited to freezing winter mornings at the best of times.

[Gadgey]

As long as you have a multi-meter this link

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/f ... iagram.pdf

is a very in helpful and indepth fault finder.

[Guest]

Ok so I was out riding my bike today with my gf behind me and as we pulled into my neighborhood, she whips up beside me and point out a leak. I stop kill the engine and there is some fluid coming from a drain by my gear shifter, the fluid coming out smelled like coolant(I could very well be wrong) but had a rusty orange color I twisted the plug with my fingers and it stopped. I have no idea what it was. And all the threads I have found show the radiator plug being higher on the bike. I didn't have time to get on the web and find out a lot of info at the time and/or call a triumph shop, I started googling and can't find a lead on it