leener Posted September 21, 2017 Posted September 21, 2017 I am aware of the procedure involved and have done a little bit of reading on it, but...I am going to try out another fuel map on my Sprint RS (2003) just to see if it behaves any better. It is fine for me, but I have a blue-flame can with no baffles, it pops like a firework factory, and I do like it.BUT, I think I need to get the fuelling right. It sounds like fireworks going off when I decelerate... It's cool, but not for pedestrians... or cyclists I found another map so I'm going to load it on later, if I have time.Do I absolutely have to do this reset procedure?It literally involves me leaving the bike running from cold to hot for about 20 minutes (or so some say). The time varies from 8 minutes, to 10, 12, 15, 18, 20. Can't get a straight answer on Google.This might annoy people and its not like me to annoy people Quote
Tango Posted September 21, 2017 Posted September 21, 2017 If you're using TuneECU to load the map, there's a button on there to reset the TPS.....so you don't have to do the heat cycle thing...... And, yes, I would reset the TPS before running it with the new map...... Quote
leener Posted September 22, 2017 Author Posted September 22, 2017 If you're using TuneECU to load the map, there's a button on there to reset the TPS.....so you don't have to do the heat cycle thing...... And, yes, I would reset the TPS before running it with the new map...... Cheers, dude I'll do it this weekend. Bleeding thing cut out this morning as I got round the corner. Colder morning than usual, though. The idle was a little bit on the low side. Soon sorted itself out after 30 miles up the m5 It's going to keep happening now that it's getting colder and colder unless I sort it. New pads and heated grips to do this weekend. Quote
leener Posted September 22, 2017 Author Posted September 22, 2017 By the way... I'm also going to try a triple map... 10154... What's the worst that can happen?10154: The one I have (10156): EDIT:I decided to go a bit mental with it and make a few "tunings" 10156. Quote
Joeman Posted September 22, 2017 Posted September 22, 2017 classic mistake of making it look pretty with the numbers/colours flowing nicely... engines dont work like that. If you look at a map setup on a dyno or using an auto tune, they wont be as pleasing to the eye - random numbers all over the place! Quote
Tango Posted September 23, 2017 Posted September 23, 2017 The best thing I did with my Speedy was to get it dyno'd......cost a couple of hundred quid, but it runs so much better now......got the SAI and O2 sensors disabled too, whilst he was about it...... Although I wasn't looking for any power increase the dyno setup increased the power from 112bhp to 122bhp. ....and the torque from 66ft/lb to 76ft/lb......so, some useful increases...... Quote
leener Posted September 23, 2017 Author Posted September 23, 2017 Massive increase, but to be honest I am not too bothered about mine. I would like that kind of increase, but it's not a good investment on my cheap commuter. All I care about is, does it work? I need to go to work on it. I had a play around with the program to change a few settings, and my good God was the map I produced a load of crap. I tried a few different maps, reset the TPS, and really faffed about just to learn. It turns out that 10152 is the best map by far for mine. As long as it runs. It's so much smoother and doesn't try to die when you let the clutch in, by dropping under 800rpm.Its an 03 sprint rs used for commuting so no worry about getting it on a dyno. Maybe even I fetch something better... Hmm, maybe a Kwak zzr 1400? Quote
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