GSF1200S K4 2nd Generation Headlamp Repair and Mods (Common Faults)

[Tommy136]

Sorry for the messages just struggling lol what pin relay do I get or where from and size wire?  And could I use just one relay to the dip light or is it Evan possible to buy a bigger switch and not have to run any relays ? 

[JRH]

Relays are the best way but you can do it with a switch. You need to use a switch which has a rating greater than the fuse size. If it is too small then it will get hot. For this I would use a switch with a minimum rating of 10 amps, bigger is better.

[Tommy136]

7 hours ago, JRH said:

Relays are the best way but you can do it with a switch. You need to use a switch which has a rating greater than the fuse size. If it is too small then it will get hot. For this I would use a switch with a minimum rating of 10 amps, bigger is better.

Ok I get that so do you know where I can get that style switch from im looking for one to go onto the bars but they’re all the cheap ones can’t find a 10 amp or higher switch more then likely me been thick lol and also the photo I added is that the right wire iv cut to wire into thanks mate 

[Tommy136]

13 hours ago, linuxrob said:

use a relay to run power to the headlight. Use the wires that do high and low to energise the two relays and run bigger wire to the bulbs from bat or live side of starter relay via an inline 10A fuse. 

refer to the pic in post repeated here for wiring. The relays will have to be mounted out of the weather.

 

any more i can help with ??

 

Rob B

 

So is the white wire I cut the correct one so far mate ? 

[linuxrob]

5 hours ago, Tommy136 said:

So is the white wire I cut the correct one so far mate ? 

Yes the white wire is the power feed to the low beam.

 

if you do not want to mount a relay go on eBay and find a 12V switch that can handle 10A you low beam will draw approx 4.5A so it will handle it without getting hot.

 

can you post a pic of the switch you have used and the method of mounting so i can advise better please?

 

rob b

[Tommy136]

2 hours ago, linuxrob said:

Yes the white wire is the power feed to the low beam.

 

if you do not want to mount a relay go on eBay and find a 12V switch that can handle 10A you low beam will draw approx 4.5A so it will handle it without getting hot.

 

can you post a pic of the switch you have used and the method of mounting so i can advise better please?

 

rob b

Ok only thing I was concerned about is if I’m putting the switch in the middle of one white wire was I putting a live and negative to same wire but I take it these don’t work like that 

[Tommy136]

So Basically I put the green wire to the one side of white wire and the black to the other side of white wire and a friend said it’s a negative and live to same wire but as it’s the only way I can get it to work I thought it couldn’t be just don’t get why it’s getting so hot fast 

[Tommy136]

Iv also seen people messing with the black wire with white tracer on it so to clarify the yellow and black white tracer I don’t need to touch 

[linuxrob]

NO NO. STOP.

Just put the switch in line of the WHITE wire

Regards

Rob

Edited May 18, 2022 by linuxrob
pic

[Tommy136]

7 hours ago, linuxrob said:

NO NO. STOP.

Just put the switch in line of the WHITE wire

Regards

Rob

Yeah that’s what I done and it gets real hot maybe it’s the wrong switch I’ll give that a try first then if not have to be relay 

[billy sugger]

I think what Linux Rob is trying to say is do not connect any other wires to the switch apart from the white wire if  wired correctly the switch you have in your pic is more than capable of carrying the load

[Tommy136]

2 minutes ago, billy sugger said:

I think what Linux Rob is trying to say is do not connect any other wires to the switch apart from the white wire if  wired correctly the switch you have in your pic is more than capable of carrying the load

So why would he wire get so hot if that was the case iv messaged the person I had the switch off he said it’s just a kill switch so maybe that’s why I dno I’m lost I get that I’m wiring it right just in between the white but don’t get why it’s getting so hot like burning hot within seconds 

[linuxrob]

4 hours ago, Tommy136 said:

So why would he wire get so hot if that was the case iv messaged the person I had the switch off he said it’s just a kill switch so maybe that’s why I dno I’m lost I get that I’m wiring it right just in between the white but don’t get why it’s getting so hot like burning hot within seconds 

if it is a kill switch then it will not handle the power the light is drawing.

 

12v switch rated at 10A is what you need so it will not get hot.

rob

[Tommy136]

Will give it a try thanks a lot for your help and sorry to bore you 

[billy sugger]

There seems to be a variety of those switches on fleabay. The one I have is the same as yours, yet it worked a twin set of extra running lights I fitted to the 500 with 50 Watts per light, direct of the battery, without issue

[Tommy136]

1 hour ago, billy sugger said:

There seems to be a variety of those switches on fleabay. The one I have is the same as yours, yet it worked a twin set of extra running lights I fitted to the 500 with 50 Watts per light, direct of the battery, without issue

 I orderd a 12v 10a headlight switch which came just and fitted it it definitely doesn’t get as hot as the other switch but still warms up is that normal and iv fitted it loom side of the connection block not the lights side does that matter 

[linuxrob]

4 minutes ago, Tommy136 said:

 I orderd a 12v 10a headlight switch which came just and fitted it it definitely doesn’t get as hot as the other switch but still warms up is that normal and iv fitted it loom side of the connection block not the lights side does that matter 

If it is switching the white wire it should be OK. Make sure you give it a good connection.