RideWithStyles Posted September 16, 2023 Posted September 16, 2023 If its ok it should be around 14.4 while the bike is putting charge back in, If its 12-13v that wont help put power back into the battery quickly but flagging the trip sensor is a big ask. The other things is resistive wire and connections checking due to its age/various people having a go at the loom just to throw another possibility. If enough resistance in the wires has built up it can flag up same as switching off sensors or relays too. if the bike starts and you rev it and the lights get slightly brighter its fine but if it stays the same its not putting enough in, Reg and stator needs looking at. 1 Quote
Sam Boughton Posted September 16, 2023 Author Posted September 16, 2023 48 minutes ago, Bender said: You need to check what's been drawn through from battery with the live off and using your meter as the bridge if you follow Sorry man I don't get you. Quote
Sam Boughton Posted September 16, 2023 Author Posted September 16, 2023 12 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said: If its ok it should be around 14.4 while the bike is putting charge back in, If its 12-13v that wont help put power back into the battery quickly but flagging the trip sensor is a big ask. The other things is resistive wire and connections checking due to its age/various people having a go at the loom just to throw another possibility. If enough resistance in the wires has built up it can flag up same as switching off sensors or relays too. if the bike starts and you rev it and the lights get slightly brighter its fine but if it stays the same its not putting enough in, Reg and stator needs looking at. So potentially not enough power is getting through to the sensor on start up and it's triggering it and that's what's making it code 30?, from what I can see the lean sensor wires are some of the only wires that haven't been adapted when they originally installed the datatool s3. My biggest problem is I'm not very mechanically educated so trying to figure this out and explain it to you guys properly yeah not sure if I'm doing a very good job! Quote
RideWithStyles Posted September 16, 2023 Posted September 16, 2023 Possible but i think if the alarm is still wired to the sensor as sometimes they use the bikes own sensors and splice into the loom/wires to give the alarm the ability of thinking if it needs to go off rather than just the wind. plus a little piggybacking corrosion... so i think the real best option is to just take the piece of shit out, you dont need it and all the while its in there and still touching something its festering or feeding off something. a mate at garage spends most weeks completely removing the things cos they create so many problems even when power is disconnected. Quote
Stu Posted September 16, 2023 Posted September 16, 2023 You will find that the alarm/immobiliser won't be wired to any part of the tilt switch They usually go for fuel pump and starter circuit! somewhere deep in the loom so its not easy to bypass Have you got a wiring diagram for the bike? Quote
Sam Boughton Posted September 18, 2023 Author Posted September 18, 2023 On 16/09/2023 at 19:08, Stu said: You will find that the alarm/immobiliser won't be wired to any part of the tilt switch They usually go for fuel pump and starter circuit! somewhere deep in the loom so its not easy to bypass Have you got a wiring diagram for the bike? I don't have a wiring diagram for the bike, I'm considering taking it to a professional to take the alarm put completely .. I spoke to a few old boys who track r1s they said maybe there is an issue with the ecu, how would I check this without sending it away. Quote
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