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Bouncy chain issue - bandit 600 03


Go to solution Solved by Mississippi Bullfrog,

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Posted

So I've gor 03 600 bandit , I replaced chain and sprocket yesterday , wheel aligned 9n both sides of swing arm, but while it wad on paddock stand I knocked into gear to make sure everything was OK but seems the chain is moving clunky and bouncy if thar makes sense , now I'm not sure if I'm being silly and it needs more than the factory lube to help or I've done something wrong 

Posted

Sounds like not enough tension?

Also, having it in gear will make it slap a bit, because there's no weight for the transmission to pull against. (It's also so dangerous).

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Elr1991 said:

So I've gor 03 600 bandit , I replaced chain and sprocket yesterday , wheel aligned 9n both sides of swing arm, but while it wad on paddock stand I knocked into gear to make sure everything was OK but seems the chain is moving clunky and bouncy if thar makes sense , now I'm not sure if I'm being silly and it needs more than the factory lube to help or I've done something wrong 

 

 

It will bounce and clank if in gear with engine idling and wheel off the floor.  Perfectly normal.

Edited by Tinkicker
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Posted

Yep, I've tried putting mine on the paddock stand to lubricate the chain and it bounces all over the shop when it doesn't have the weight of the bike to push against in gear and running. 

 

Not to mention probably being fairly dodgy if the paddock stand was to collapse. 

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

Is the tension checked properly again after it’s been torqued up?
Check the crush drives.

Chain tension is usually done with at least the weight of the bike on the back wheel, some with rider on too which makes it virtually impossible to check tension without a second pair of hands. 

 

Once you lift the back wheel of the deck, the chain tension will be totally out of spec.

 

If you tension it to spec with the back wheel off the floor then you risk overtightening it massively. As always rtfm. 

Edited by Phil1
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Posted

Phil this Depends on the bike and which case the book defines.

Some are off the floor unlaydon (centre stand) and some with the bikes own weight only but never of rider or extra Weight of pillion or luggage cos how much are you gonna weigh, how much shite are you gonna add?? Its soo variable sooo- 

Exactly so they assume and which is why there is slack accounted for the total max possible they designed the bike to allow.

Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

Phil this Depends on the bike and which case the book defines.

Some are off the floor unlaydon (centre stand) and some with the bikes own weight only but never of rider or extra Weight of pillion or luggage cos how much are you gonna weigh, how much shite are you gonna add?? Its soo variable sooo- 

Exactly so they assume and which is why there is slack accounted for the total max possible they designed the bike to allow.

I did say "Usually". Not always. 😂

 

I am of course eager to learn so could you quote which bikes have the chain set/tensioned on the centre stand with the wheel up? 

Edited by Phil1
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Posted
58 minutes ago, Phil1 said:

I did say "Usually". Not always. 😂

 

I am of course eager to learn so could you quote which bikes have the chain set/tensioned on the centre stand with the wheel up? 

Honda CBF500 for one. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So I know it's been quiet for a while but only chnace I've had to get a video , 

 

 

This is the chain bounce I refer to , maybe normal maybe not I'd rather have another opinion before I pit it back on the road to go to a garage 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Elr1991 said:

So I know it's been quiet for a while but only chnace I've had to get a video , 

 

 

This is the chain bounce I refer to , maybe normal maybe not I'd rather have another opinion before I pit it back on the road to go to a garage 

Running in gear with the back wheel raised will make the chain bounce. Just check the slack static. If it's within tolerance then it's fine. 

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Posted

Never do that again is my advice.


Anyway that is from natural variability in the chain, sprockets, crush,alinement, firing order and fueling.
so the highest likely list is wear ,kinks, twists, tight spots, sticking, looseness etc from any or all of the above.

the top will flap about more with no load (weight and transfer of force) as its passive brought forward to the sprocket to push the tyre round to begin the cycle again while you’ve got it in the air…don’t do that.

most likly its the chain wearing then the sprockets and crush…. Don’t worry about it as long as it’s in spec for tension length (rise in mm mid point), longitudinal length (stretch) and not kninked or sticking.

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