Hairsy

Agreed. Thug. And I wonder what we’d see if footage from the previous 2 minutes had been shown.

Have they gone crazy with the costs? I’ve attended F1 for many years with friends. We camp at Woodlands and have grandstand seats that we book every year. Cost of the weekend has gone from around £400 to around £900 in recent years. I love the event but this will be my last year. im going to the Le Mans 24 hour in a couple of weeks on the bike. Total cost including entry, camping, tunnel and 2 AirBnB stopovers is around £250.

Great bike. Had same bike same year. I miss it.

Just checked my emails and it was actually £64 but for 2 seats.

Yes, that's them. Very helpful guy.

I highly recommend having a memory foam insert into your seat. I've had this down on two bikes and they've made a big difference. From memory, cost of the last one was around £50 including return postage. I used a company called Acorn Upholstery (best way to contact them is via Facebook) and will definitely use them again. They can either refit your original cover to make it look OEM or put a new and / or custom cover on there. I chose the original. You can see some of their work on their Facebook page.

https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-insurance/driving-abroad

You'll get other views but I say Yes. Go with Yamaha's. The only time I would go with a tyre manufacturer's recommendations is when they are bike-specific recommendations. If they're just giving a recommendation for that tyre without knowledge of how it's being used then they can't possible know the weight of the bike / rider / luggage. Those all make a significant difference to the pressure requirements. For road riding, in my humble opinion, you will never have a problem with bike manufacturer recommendations.

As has been said, really focus on looking where you're going. Specifically, visualise your line through the corner. Look at the exact bit of road that you're planning to ride and you're likely to then ride it. There's likely to be a big psychological thing going on. You know you need to lean the bike to turn. You also know how to counter steer (because it's the only way to steer above walking speed). However as soon as you start to doubt yourself, the brain wants the body to be upright and then there's this internal conflict going on. One tip that I'd suggest is to practice very intentional countersteering. And do it loads. When riding along in a straight line (without other drivers nearby who will think you're drunk), push each side of the handlebars to experience the way it turns you in the opposite direction. As you get comfortable, try to be a bit more positive and invoke a fairly fast swerve (but never get near grip limits doing this). Keep doing it - for minutes at a time. The purpose is to override that unconscious desire to be upright and replace it with a comfort with invoking a lean and with the effect that has. The more comfortable your subconscious becomes with that concept, the less you'll have that nervousness that you might not make the corner. And, finally, it's completely normal and you will overcome it.

That is lovely - perfect for a first resto project. Sadly its the wrong time of year for me - it's my season for keys instead of spanners.

I'd definitely risk it - all part of the adventure and they're reliable. Great choice of bike - I have one and absolutely love it.

You'll start to get more of a view of what you might enjoy once you have a little experience. I assume you're doing DAS (there's no benefit in doing any 'lower' licence If you're old enough to have a mid life crisis). During the course of that you'll get to ride a proper big bike with a relaxed engine but plenty of power. So my suggestion is to keep researching but don't commit yet. If you want to get a 125 to practice on then I'd recommend a second hand standard commuter style Japanese 125 that you'll probably sell for the same as you paid for it. But if you get on OK with biking then you don't necessarily need to buy a 125. It's very much a personal thing. Have fun - and share the journey with us.

I've been on a bit of a journey with budget textiles. I initially looked at the Oxford range, including Montreal but settled on Richa Cyclone based on advice from my local Infinity gear. These were on sale at the time but were still a little more expensive than Oxford. They claim to be waterproof and I've used them for a couple of hours in the wet and remained dry - but I always rely on having a set of (cheap) Oxford Rainseal over jacket / trousers if I'm heading away and am at risk of getting properly wet. Since getting the Richa gear though, I've found I need something different for warmer days. The Richa has vents which do OK but I hate to be too hot. I ended up with an RST Ventilator XT CE jacket. This is an AA rated mesh jacket that includes a thermal lining. The lining claims to be waterproof - I haven't had to test it but reviewers suggest that it does OK but isn't brilliant. But that isn't really an issue for me as I would aim to have my Rainseal gear with me if I'm at risk of rain. In the warm, this jacket is absolutely fantastic - it's as close as I've ever felt to just wearing a t-shirt while still wearing decent gear. It really does let a lot of airflow through. When it's chiller, the removable lining zips in and it's really effective. It's probably not quite as warm as my Richa gear but it's really not bad and for short local journeys, I'll always use the RST gear even in the depths of winter. I've just bought the matching Ventilator trousers to go with the jacket - I haven't used them yet but they're constructed the same as the jacket so I have no doubt that they will be as cool as the jacket - and they also come with removable lining. In summary, I'd really recommend considering something like the RST Ventilator kit, supplemented by over jacket / trousers for when its properly wet.

A little late to this one but I thought it might be sensible to add something in case someone uses the internet for their source of the truth (heaven help us!) This driving licence does not include motorbike entitlement other than Moped. Class A is motorcycles but, in the case, it is restricted to tricycles only (code 79.03).

My experience with the Chinese is that they are very literal and deliver to requirements. That means that if they are given a specification which includes an explicit requirement for quality then they will deliver it. Apple have shown that. If they are given no requirement for quality but are given a requirement for low price then you'll get exactly what you asked for. It's the age old engineering conundrum ... do you want cheap, light or strong? You only ever get to choose two.