Dav3y

Disagree here matey, it clearly taught me the difference between a plain old potential hazard and a developing one. That's the breakthrough that's going to make most get a better score on the test.

No, no it's not. There is an element of gaining experience of taking the test to understand what they are looking for as it's easy to click before the developing hazard window opens on each clip and getting no points because you effectively reacted too early but equally the window is fairly small for each hazard so you can also miss the window if you are too slow. I had over 25 years of experience and didn't find it bad at all considering I didn't have to go through all this when I took my car test all those years ago.

When I did my test last year, I practised with.a P.C. program and found myself clicking too early too many times. As soon as I understood it's not just any and every potential hazard but only a developing hazard, it made things far easier. After all, it's about driving safely and being aware of a potential hazard and then being ready to react if it develops to a point you may have to react. Think I dropped about 8 points in total on the real test which meant I'd noticed all hazards including the double one. Trying to circumvent the test and get a fake pass is only cheating yourself at the end of the day. I'd want to be sure in my mind that I'm as safe and clued up and observant as I can be without being a hindrance to other road users.

Thanks guys. I might just run it past watling tyres to see if they can repair and if not will get the first of the PR3's or PR4's fitted on the front. Perhaps i hurt the Bridgestones feelings by slagging them off as they have both now picked up a nail each although the rear one didn't go through but in sideways to a big bit of rubber. Pulled that out with no ill effects. Funnily enough I was getting more attached to these ones having had a real bad set on my XJ6 that squirmed around all over the road. Hmm, actually, I think I might be talking myself into just replacing that tyre. Couldn't have come at a better time I guess with a good 3 days of rain forecast.

Well, this morning when I got the bike out for work, it appeared a lot more difficult to wheel around. I looked at both tyres and neither looked flat, so after some heaving and shoving, off I ride to work. There's literally about 5 turns and a couple of roundabouts and the last couple of turns seemed quite heavy and the bike felt like it wanted to flop into the turn. On leaving work tonight I go straight to the garage to check/pump up tyres. To my astonishment, even though the tyre doesn't look flat, the front has just 5 psi in it. I pumped it up, checked the back which was almost what it should be so topped that up and off I go home. Get home, out with the torch and carefully check the tyre. Yep, there it is, nail right in the middle of the tread with the shiney head showing where it's ground down. Question is, is it repairable or do I just junk it and get it replaced ? Bike is only two months old with around 1500 miles on the clock. Mate suggested some tubeless repair kits on ebay but they all seem to suggest they are really meant for temporary roadside use so I'm not sure I'd be happy with using one of those. I've had a car tyre repaired before and they drilled the hole out and plugged it. Is this doable on a bike tyre I guess is the question if anyone has been in a similar situation ? I would rather not have to replace the tyre if possible but then again if the repair isn't up to much or kills my confidence in the tyre then I guess the decision is already made.

Sunday will be better than Saturday. Twisties, rain and wet leaves not for me I'm afraid. Maybe one day I'll get to come out and play.

Word of warning regarding SD cards and HD recording. Get a minimum class 6 or higher (preferably class 10/UHS). Also be wary of cheap cards claiming to be higher capacity than their price would make you believe.

No benefit on riding a 125cc for two years at all apart from two years no claim bonus before upgrading to a bigger bike. As you're over 24, then I'd look into doing DAS and going straight for an A license on a 600cc school bike. You can still stick with your 125 if you want, but will then have the freedom to move up to a bigger bike as and when you want.

hope it all goes well. don't forget that the figure 8 you can go nice and wide so don't make those turns too steep. I shall step away from commenting on slow riding, it's the only point i picked up a point on my mod 1 for going too slow of all things to the point i was a little wobbly. I wish they still walked in front of you so you had some idea of what is an acceptable slow speed.

If you went, I'd go just to drool at your bike See now that's what i call an arm twist It's not an ER6 by the way I'm planning to do some photography trips soon - I really need to make use of my bike and camera together. But... I also like to terrorise the roads of kent I've got to get some proper SATNAV mount setup for my bike as it has no proper handlebars as such. If i do it right, i guess i could get it to double as a mount for my gopro as well. Always been a bit wary about filming rideouts, not that i'm supersticious and all that but it would feel a little like walking under a ladder if i had my camera filming on my bike.

Guess I have less of an excuse not to now the R6 engine rebuild I was doing with a friend for another biking friend is now complete although to be fair, I prefer a more leisurely ride and a tea or piss stop and a few photo opportunities when I go for a longer Rideout.

like this ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HP-ajAbe4Y Use the YouTube tag at top of editor and drop the s from https I would be careful/selective about posting videos like this though dude. I know someone who had their house raided and computers/camera equipment taken away for examination for posting a single biking video on YouTube. Maybe a helmet/tank mounted camera might help giving a better viewpoint.

I insured an 18 month old XJ6F with ebike and that worked out around £500 for the first year. They were way too expensive for a bigger bike but a great way to earn the first year ncb.

Plastic is so shiney though. Wondering if I have the patience to hold off until motorcycle live. Not sure if I like the carbon look as it wouldn't match ahything else on the bike. Might be best if I see some in the flesh first. The powerbronze hugger has either a silver or gold mesh on it, I guess that will make cleaning more tricky Decisions decisions. Edit:- It seems I can get a hugger extender to go with the OEM mudguard. Might go down this route. After all, it's more about less crap being thrown up on the underside of the bike than what it looks like.

So, Having purchased a REAR hugger for the Z1000sx, on close inspection prior to fitting it appeared to have hairline cracks in the lacquer so I returned it. It was of fibreglass construction which I guess makes this kind of damage more likely. It was also a combined mudguard and chain guard not that I'm bothered either way if the replacement is. Have got my refund this morning and now looking at a plastic hugger by Powerbronze. Anyone have any thoughts on these or some other make that May be available ? Thanks,

I'd lay money on it being 16+8 but it could be 16 including the mandatory 8 if you're real unlucky. Quite frankly though how they would expect anyone to work for just 8 days annual leave on top of bank hols is beyond me if this is the case. 16 days sounds about right for a part timer working 4 day weeks Good luck

Congrats on the new job. Looks like you might be able to start enjoying the biking again.

Exhaust ?

looking at this I'm fairly confident the yellow is the side light and green the earth. the remaining two colour wire being the stop light. As has been said, you may need resistors unless you buy 12v LEDs with them built in. http://dombike.narod.ru/rus/manuals/hayness_cbr/scan/0093.gif

Unless they can show you it running, I'd steer well clear. I'd be suspicious about the length of time it's apparently not been used if they are saying a few months and in that short time it wont start.

If you've been running a few years, best read this: http://www.extremetech.com/computing/17 ... y-live-for ...you might be about to lose another drive Think i'll take that article with a pinch of salt as there's nothing included in the figures about makes and models of drive. Have had in the past at work what must have been a bad batch of Maxtor IDE drives and a handful of WD Blue's in desktop machines. They mostly failed between 12 and 24 months. I've got a server at work that's 14 years old and currently has 8 year old SCSI drives in it still going strong. Worst drives by far for reliability have been laptops and I put that down to bumps/knocks while still turned on and overheating due to putting them in a laptop case while still switched on although to be fair most of them were somewhere between 3-5 years old. That was a few years ago mind. Can't remember when I changed a laptop drive out recently due to failure. We did get offered an online backup service from our LEA a couple of years back. It made me chuckle as it was sold as an overnight backup system but seeing as the network connection they provided us with as well was not particularly quick, it worked out it would have taken the best part of 48 hours to back our data up. Here's something more on topic ">

Highly debateable indeed. I understand the principles but prefer my data to stay in my hands rather then out on the internet. I'm sure recent events with certain celebrities pictures is proof enough just how insecure cloud storage can be and besides it requires an internet connection to access it at all which is hardly friendly for low power battery usage for any length of time. I have Google drive, photo bucket and other cloud accounts and I'd never put ahything on them I didn't mind losing. My NAS drive with RAID 5 can lose a drive and still work fine. Indeed when I first got it a couple of years ago I lost a seagate drive within 6 months and lost nothing. I then replaced the drives with 4 WD Red NAS drives and have had no trouble since. As for throughput, I can get speeds approaching 100MB/second throughput when copy files between a laptop with SSD across the gigabit network connection which is perfect for my GoPro video files. I can stream music/video/photos direct to all of my devices at home without any of my data going anywhere near the internet at all. Anything I do want to take mobile can go on a USB memory stick or SD card. Until such time as bandwidth no longer being a bottleneck or additional cost then cloud storage is just not going to cut it for some types of data. I will however say that cloud storage in unbeatable value in comparison to other options but for me that's less important.

I think that probably sealed the deal. In all seriousness, cloud storage is o.k. as long as you understand your data is vulnerable to loss or theft. It also isn't great for large files, especially RAW photo files or video as access times are just too slow. For backing up thousands of small documents it's fine. Stick to a pair of local USB hard drives or buy a NAS drive setup with RAID which you can configure for remote access if really needed.

Sorry, only just seen this thread. We buy Cheap ACER laptops for staff (I look after I.T. in a school). You could buy one for around £400 and buy an SSD for it which will make it so much quicker. These laptops get used daily and pose very few issues considering the use they get. Extended warranties are not expensive either if you want piece of mind. Get something with as much RAM and preferably Windows 7 downgrade license and preferably i5 processor if budget allows. Purchased 30 of these last year and only failure so far has been a keyboard I suspect got on the wrong side of a hot drink. Let me know if you're still considering this route and I'll have a look for some decent options.

I used to like the odd late night ride to Costa for a late night coffee and bakewell tart when I had my XJ6 as you could barely hear it running but alas no more with the Z1000SX. I guess I could be more inconsiderate but you have to live next door to these people and anything not to give a bad impression of bikes has got to be good. Did try the push it up the end of the garden but it's nigh on impossible to get the bike up the slope and through a barely wider than the bike gap without it being under its own power, besides I'd probably drop it or scratch it.