I-AM-THOR

Yes faster on one side. I read that they can do this if one of the bulbs goes. Is this true?

The front right bulb needs replacing. Could also be electrical though cos the rear has some black on the bulb. But might be also due to its age.

Wheel disks and rear shock have some rust

Right indicators flash very fast

Thanks

Got it working thanks to the Internet. Common fault which has multiple fixes

It has a hose. Gave the bike some new petrol and gave it a shake. Tried it and nothing again so I just kept my finger on the ignition button for 10 seconds or so and gave it a few revs. Tried it 5 times and starts every time but still doesn't sound right.

Sounds like it chugging when idle. Maybe I should see about cleaning the pipes?

There was a fuel switch under the seat on reserve. Switched to on but still only fires up for a second and turns off.

Recently got a hornet and he fired it up no probs. it stopped working so I thought it was the battery dos he said it was goosed.

Started up each time for a few days. Now it won't start. Replaced the battery. It fires up for a brief moment,chugs then cuts out.

Shook the bike and it's got petrol in there.

Thanks

"Good" chains tend to hover about the £70-100 mark.

I've got an Oxford Hardcore and a Monster, both hefty and have stood 10+ years of abuse/rain/ice/salt and other assorted shit getting at them.

Beefy chains are all well and good but can be broken fairly easily - if you're on a budget, spend the heft of your cash on the lock/shackle, you can always upgrade the chain later. Either that or look at ebay - just don't get it delivered to your home address!

If you had to choose which chain do you prefer?

Monster is 55

Hardcore 69.99

Looking for a decent one but also one that doesn't break the bank.

New belphegor album

eBay will tell her to return the console for a full refund.

You can win vs a buyer cos I've done it myself but pp and eBay don't use common sense.

Most of auctions I have for cash on collection to avoid this type of claim.

What did you cut it with?

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can get one from? I need one this weekend.its the socket with 4 teeth.

Hi all,

Does anyone know if you can replace the oil pump without removing the engine?

What size test valve do i need?

I cant find anything online or in the serice book

gixer k7

Checked the oil and its a dark green/brown colour. During the flush there was very small bits in the liquid.

Did a test on the thermostat and it seems fine, used YouTube to check. Went into dealer mode and it showed nothing is wrong.

Tomorrow I will be replacing all the fuses and checking oil pump shaft and water pump.

Is it true that if my head gasket had gone it would continue to over heat oven on the motorway?

Been doing a fair amount of research and this seems to happen to a few people. One person had to replace oil and water pump

Third time lucky....... What's your location?

Leeds

Weird when I checked the fuses they were in the wrong order, fan went mental but ignition wouldn't work unless I used a 15 instead of a 10

 

So lets get this straight... the fan was not working, so you swapped the Ignition fuse for the fan fuse, then the Ignition stopped working and the fan started working...

have i got that right??

How much more coolant do I need? Put in 1 litre.

Yes, the pic shows it needs a 10 but when I tried it, all it would do is the lights would flash dim. Put in the spare 15 and it worked fine. All the fuses are fine, no dead ones

And the temperature at the time? Also degrees c or f

Sounds like a duff fan or stat

240-250 °f, didn't fill the tank enough with coolant only got a 1 litre.

Weird when I checked the fuses they were in the wrong order, fan went mental but ignition wouldn't work unless I used a 15 instead of a 10. Engine was already warm and even with a working fan temps were still going up.

Tested the bike and the fan didn't kick in. The coolant bottle was bubbling like a kettle. Checked exhaust and it wasn't smoking.

About to check fuses and finish the flush.

Then it sounds like the fan is not kicking in so firstly check the fuse. If that's alright then try connecting 12v straight to the fan terminals - if it spins up then your switch is probably iffy.

Have you checked your coolant/oil yet? If you've got mayo in the expansion bottle or can see it through the oil sight glass then you may have HG failure. Otherwise, check the simple, cheap things first!

Not yet, off to asda in a min to get some.

When does it do this by the way? When it's standing (prob fan/switch/fuse) or when you're riding (prob air lock/thermostat)?

Standing. Its fine when I'm riding cos the air cools it down but once its stood or not moving as fast temps go high.

Maybe a little back story is needed, I had an oil leak on the bike and rode it slowly for a mile or two. Got it checked over and the bike shop said everything was ok. About a week later bike starts overheating and a possible loss of power, some said maybe it was me cos it was a new to me bike.

Took the bike back and they didn't really know what was wrong, he said its possible iv blown my gasket but he didn't know 100% and would cost a lot to find out why. Told me to manage the heat or change the engine. So I managed the heat by only taking her on the motorway. Overheated twice cos I was getting some bits and got stuck in traffic.

Drain the coolant completely and refil with the correct amount. That rules out any air pockets.

Was there any steam from the exhaust pipe?

Any bubbles in the expansion tank?

I will do that and check everything that been said and report back

180°f is 82°c which is normal

140°c is 284°f

have you over filled the coolant and have you put the right amount of antifreeze is as this reduces the boiling point

is the rad getting hot? does the fan cut in?

you need to verify all this before replacing a head gasket or engine!!

and overfilled expansion bottle will cause it to piss coolant all over the floor

are you getting any oil in the water or water in the oil? is the exhaust steaming constantly even after a long ride?

Maybe I'm wrong with the °f then, I will check in the morning as it has no spark plugs in atm. When I switched it on it was on °f. I think when it leaked it was on 240/250. Red light would come on and the temp gauge would flash.

It would leak out of the front near the rad.

There is a lot of heat from the rad, not sure on the fan, I will fire it up in the morning.it got so hot upfront that it melted my rec/reg wires.

Coolant isn't over filled, what was weird was bike had plenty of coolant one min and the next main it was gone. Topped it up and it went down quickish. Left the bike for a week and when I went to fill it the coolant was back.

Think Its °f if that makes a difference?

Iv had it higher than 180, its never cut out but if hit high enough it spits out coolant. Its only ever happened twice.

whats really hot??

what does the temp gauge say does the fan kick in and out?

some people think 90°c is hot but its not!

It gets so hot the red light kicks in. Maybe something like 180