j4ff

I havent seen it YET but the topic "Nice on Rossi" kinda SPOILT it. Also wrong section.I was avoiding the racing section again

The noise is probably the chain slapping.Even in neutral there is a slight force on the front chain sprocket not enough to move a bike but enough to keep the slop out the chain .When you cut the power the tension stops and it slaps the swing arm.....Just a theory mind,something to look at b4 spending cash. Cold starting maybe the choke not opening enough,i think theyre manual.Are you actually using it cos in this warmer weather i only need 1/4 to 1/2 for the first fire then i can close it.

I would take out the pads clean the dust build up on them.Would also use a toothbrush and soapy water to clean out the caliper before copper slipping the back of the pads and refitting.

Well you are a wee's keyser (local joke for anyone outside a 20mile radius ) only kiddin m8y pleased its sorted.

Did you get the dealer to fit the alarm just thinking of validation of your warranty.If so take it back.If not take it to the garage that fitted the thing.

turn the rear wheel check for tight spots on any links.If there are some tighter than others then its stretched. Pull the chain away from the rear sprocket,if you can and can see daylight its life is over. Check the sprocket teeth for knurled edges.The front ones are usually hidden and often not replaced by cowboy garages.(and main Stealers which i found out) Sprockets are always best to change at the same time.If you put a new chain on old sprockets it will half the life of the chain and vice versa. Do you have enough play in your chain about 2 inches(ish).Its just ive never seen a chain last all the way to end of the adjusters theyre usually out of shape half way through.Thought you may have been over tightening

There is a bonus to having a dip stick over a sight glass where in my case i put a little bit too much in.Instead of undoing the sump plug and possibly having to replace the crush washer again you can simply put a tube into the dipstick opening and syphon out the excess. Most bikes are 10/40. Fully synthetic can cause clutch slippage.If this happens its not a case of just changing the oil as the clutch plates will be contaminated and will need replacing

Ditch the oem tyres get some sporties dont alter the sizes. Im assuming the rear is sliding under braking.If it had been the front youd be off so practice braking with the front.Rear brake drags the bike rendering it pretty useless for stopping quickly.The front brake buries the tyre into the road spreading the contact patch.Some people have an issue loading the front,as long as you dont grab an instant handfull asking too much of the tyre,jst progressivly squeeze.The rear goes so light engine braking alone will lock the rear. Notice the rear as all the weight has gone to the front tyre http://www.powerslide.net/forum/uploads/monthly_09_2009/post-835-1252673089_thumb.jpg

Now remember to never use it again paint it red as a reminder.

throttle bodies need balancing.

usually 10/40 semi synthetic.Ive heard fully synthetic can cause wet clutches to slip.

sounds like the battery wont hold a strong charge. The indicator thing is a lack of power to the relay/flasher unit

Unless its a really large roundabout normally if youre in the right lane the car to the left of you will 99 times out of a 100 not be going around the roundabout(unless theyre lost)nobody should be taking the outside lane around you to prevent your exit.Just indicate left at your earliest opportunity shoulder check and exit.Be aware of traffic on roundabouts at all times.Scan ahead on approach.Whos behind and around you,whos waiting to join at the various points always think about your next move and theirs leave no surprises. http://www.simplemarketinguk.co.uk/ignition/images/dg_070540.jpg http://www.nudrivers.com/NDImg/RoundaboutUK.jpg This looks confusing http://www.ellemosh.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/magic_roundabout.jpg

If its a sports they generally bite further out for quick shifts

Depends on the lever.Either the top one here on a ratchet or the second with a lock nut. If you have no play left then youl have to do it from the other end. Just unscrew until you have about 5mm of free play http://members.shaw.ca/fazed/Images/mods/pazzo/DSCF3180.JPG Unscrew the lock nut,unscrew main bolt until 5mm of play then tighten lock nut. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/ClutchPhotos/ClutchLeverAdjustClassic.jpg

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Ride out to Bolam Lake on my own then off around the Derwent reservoir 2's up.Good fun in the sun Bolam http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j177/J4FF/bike/Image025.jpg http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j177/J4FF/bike/Image024.jpg Derwent http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j177/J4FF/bike/Image033bl.jpg http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j177/J4FF/bike/Image031.jpg http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j177/J4FF/bike/Image029.jpg http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j177/J4FF/bike/Image026.jpg

ive bought one of these from HG.Needs abit of tailoring to fit as the straps arent long enough to go around my yoke so ive used shoe laces another bogie is i cant get to my key Used the foam inside to make a mount to raise it.Job done

if its genuine maybe: 0564 Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C (DPBMC) (This is the R1,R6 blue) 0583 Deep Purplish Blue Solid 002F Strong Blue (SB) 0865 Deep Purplish Blue Metallic L (DPBML) 0189 Dark Purplish Blue Metallic #2 (DPBM2) 0372 Dark Blue Cocktail #2 (DBC2) 1090 Deep Purplish Blue Metallic X 0996 Deep Purplish Blue Metallic U (Cobalt Blue) (DPBMU Good luck

Ive never used the chin vent remover but i regulary take the pods off to get out any dead flies clean em and lube em.I know you can use a lolly stick or a spoon handle but i prefer the proper tool.

That ebay seller is actually the Dianese pro shop on the westgate hill in newcastle

I bought one of those off ebay a month back.Havent used it yet but it has a nice click in fittment for the sat nav no way it will unplug itself on the move.

8 available on ebay for £3.50. clicky You dont need them for your visor removal just the side pods and chin vent.

If the garage says you need new discs i would try sourcing them yourself cos they are expensive.

Im short so dont get in any pain riding sports bikes.So its an R1 or the like as my weapon of choice.For me to get there im 15mile from the ferry to Amsterdam then a 200mile trip to get there which is no biggie.My first day planned for Jockland this year starts with a 430 mile trip from Newcastle to Inverness avoiding all motorways 8.5 hours in the saddle.