wr6133

Motobatt battery. No farting about with acids and they last well even when left out in the cold. Really you want to check it with a multimeter though the starters are known for going on viagras

loose wheel? place near me charges me 5 quid to remove an old tyre and put on a new one, he supplies the valve. So I'd expect around that figure.

Spot on.... I was checking yesterday and the 400 rings are different. They also seem to only be available from 1 person on eBay who is in Hong Kong and wants 27 quid a set. I need 3 sets so 81 notes on rings. More than I will spend. I'll probably just scavenge the best parts from this engine and the best parts from my current on the road ZZR400 engine. 81 for rings + whatever shims I need the cost would be too close to what I could buy a working 600 lump for. My wife is in China next month though visiting family so I may get her to see f she can find any locally at local (peanut) prices. This resto now is more about keeping busy than the initial lofty plans I had. Not being in work and being effectively crippled and drugged up all day has been taking its toll this is to get me busy before I go insane. If I can get all my parts sorted over winter then hopefully come spring if I have regained mobility/strength I will tear down my current ZZR400 hack and use parts from that along with the restored stuff in the spare frame I have.

Had to wait for the test area to defrost on my mod 1. Was sure I'd fail the ride there had been horrendous, scraping frozen fog off the visor while doing 80 on a dual carriageway type horrible. Passed was all worth it. Mod 2 I did in torrential rain and my visor kept steaming even when open a little so I just opened it all the way and scrunched my eyes a bit due to the stinging rain. Passed that too. My crap eBay gloves leaked on this I weighed them when I finally got home they were almost 2KG's each due to all the water they had absorbed I had been riding 125's in all weathers prior though. Still I think it's good to train and pass in Winter, when I was a squaddie we used to say "train hard, fight easy", so learn now at the worst and you'll be better for it.

Sorry my last answer was short a better attempt 1st - If the third party insurer has accepted that CAT C then I'd assume they are moving on with the claim, if liability is still in limbo I don't think they'd be pricing stuff up. If the accident was straight forward then liability should be sorted quickly. What have they said specifically..... phone them every day, if you don't they will hope you just go away and drag it all out. If it is as you described it's worth fixing up. I very much doubt they will actually sell you it at £105 salvage value though even as a CAT C it's worth more than that. You arrange buying it before they cut a cheque, so if for example they offer you £1500 for the bike and offer to sell you the wreck for £350 then they send you a cheque for £1150. Leave it until the claim is settled. If you fix it up now and they don't sell it to you then you fixed it for them. Also who arranged the assessor? If it wasn't them they may want to assess it themselves (your assessors £ figures seem to value the bike very highly, while valuing the salvage at peanuts). If you want to ride demand a hire bike from them till the claim is settled (though this comes with its own minefield of pitfalls). Pester them continuously to get it settled. If you are fully comp insured tell them if they don't settle fast you will go through your insurer (who will send them an inflated bill) that can make them pull their fingers out. If liability is still in question at this point I'd be looking at solicitors.

Buy salvage at stated salvage value Get on eBay buy the parts used and cheap Pocket difference Happy Days

An update. After I started this thread I had an off on a work bike, fractured my elbow and worsened a spine injury, so not a lot got done. Also I’m now out of work and waiting on the NHS to do something more useful than dope me up on Tramadol to sort my spine. Means budget is now non-existent and physically I struggle to get shit done. However got sick of doing nothing so decided to start on the stuff I do have. That filthy spare engine got cleaned and today popped the lid to check the valves………. They were way, way out. As they were so far out I figured may as well pull the head to check the rest of it. Sorry for crappy photos, phone isn’t the best and it was also a bit greasy. My mancave… that’s my work area, it’s a bit tight! http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/zzr/IMG_20141109_185036_zpsd6ba315d.jpg Cleaned these up a bit http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/zzr/IMG_20141109_181013_zpsbaccfb5a.jpg Still not gleaming but better, I was worried they’d be knackered as the clearances were so far out but they appear ok http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/zzr/IMG_20141109_184537_zps523ac30d.jpg Crap photo but in much better condition than I thought http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/zzr/IMG_20141109_183740_zps54045e01.jpg http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/zzr/IMG_20141109_184635_zps019188f4.jpg Haven’t really looked at this yet. A quick glance I think the rings will need replacing. http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/zzr/IMG_20141109_184429_zps75905f67.jpg I’ll be doing more in the week. None of the bloody shims were marked so I need to get a micrometer to measure them. Then need to find some dirt cheap shims. Gaskets are going to be a royal pain. The head gasket has lost all its black layer so shouldn’t be reused. However the only way to get a ZZR 400 head gasket is from japan at near £100 posted which is out of budget, also if I add the cost of the other gaskets (which luckily are common with the 600) I need it will total around £150 which is close enough to the price of a used 600 engine that would bolt right in. Piston rings I haven’t measured yet, I’m hoping they are common with the 600 so replacing would be easy and cheap. Anyway stay tuned for more engine fiddling through the week.

Very easy, fairings are fairly quick to remove. An example just after I typed the above the stupidly high winds here blew mine over (centrestand and badly positioned for the wind tunnel my street creates). In the time from that last post I removed the fairings, disconnected the clutch, swapped the damaged cover with a spare one, put it all back together, topped up the oil and had a hot shower. All bar the shower at the kerbside in torrential rain and high wind. Ignoring the fairings it is easier to work on than my old Jinlun and that was pretty simple. Barring disaster they generally don't need much work though, mines an ancient high miler and still just keeps going. I should check the valves in another 5k or so but I probably won't bother till another 10K. Only thing I'd avoid is the older 600D models my 400 is a k model which is the same as the D and you can't get new fairings for them anymore, the E models (or N for 400) were 1993 onward and you can buy brand new fairing kits still.

More reason to chop it in for that ZZR.....

A1 plan sounds ok. Theory + the 2 Mods will be somewhere around £130. So if you pass 1st time that's not a lot more than a CBT. Find an empty car park, take some old bottles and mark out and practice MOD 1. MOD 2 a little trickier to practice, read roadcraft books, watch videos and then burn a tank of petrol putting it in to practice around your local test centre. A day practicing for MOD 2 with a school is liable to cost more than the MOD 2 so I'd not bother. If you fail MOD 2 1st time take onboard why you failed, book again and get it right 2nd time.

Fixed Properly fixed!

You could if you didn't want to step above a 125 do an A1 licence very cheaply. You would need to book the MOD1 and MOD2 yourself then turn up on your 125 and take the tests. Including theory I think if you passed both MOD's first time you would be around £130-ish. Then no more bi-annual CBT. No real reason not to pass that way. A carpark and some old coke bottles are adequate to practice MOD 1. MOD 2 I'd suggest reading a lot of roadcraft and watching videos then go and burn off a tank of fuel riding the area near the test centre putting what you read and viewed in to practice.

I'm fairly sure he wants people to take the blame for speeding in Spain, provide him a copy of their licence, he pays fine but avoids the points. Failing that he may just be saying this http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/borat_zpse2cd8c1d.jpg

CBT is up to 14.6 BHP and 125cc. As you are old enough for a big boys licence there is really little advantage to spending 2 years on a 125, if you have a 125 already just spend a short time getting used to riding. If you don't have one just go do a DAS course if you still want a 125 after that you can get one but if you prefer a Hayabusa you can get that too. The 2 years on a 125 thing used to be because you could pass your test on a 125 and then wait out a restriction period for 2 years before getting auto upgraded to a proper licence. Europe put an end to that. If you do your licence on a 125 you will have an A1 licence and can only ride a 125 up to 14.6BHP so that's a waste of time too.

I had an Oxford Aquatex (20-ish quid one) that lasted 2 years living outside, finally gave up last week when a small hole where I snagged it on something got made massive by strong wind. Would definitely recommend if like me you are too cheapskate/poverty/stingy/tight to get the stormex. Also got a Lidl one a few weeks ago for £8.99. It's built very well I can imagine it lasting longer than the oxford. The tie down method is a bit of a pain in the arse though involving little strings. Worth seeing if your local Lidl has any left at £8.99 it's worth a punt even if just kept as a spare. Have a "Kawasaki" branded one too. It's apparently a kwak branded oxford aquatex but I'm sceptical it's not as hard wearing as the oxford. Mega Motorcycle store sells em in store (and occasionally online) for £10 though. It's managed a year of on and off use so far, probably wouldn't recommend though better to spend the extra tenner or so on an actual oxford branded one. My neighbour has an Oxford Stormex..... well worth the money but I'm just too stingy to fork out that much.

It's a fashion boot aimed at rich people that probably have never touched a bike. £250?

Almost fist sized one in my ZZR. Just left it there it adds to the character, not like it slows the bike down or anything.

I have similar to littlecat and would recommend.

Off the top of my head (so you may want to confirm these) Stat - 10V AC or above (can be more if RPM high) Reg/Rec - Around 15V DC

I hope your Butler interacted with the tosser servants, one wouldn't want to actually have to acknowledge their existence.

You have a multi meter? If not buy this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-M ... 1c32dd5ce7 easier to test stuff properly than guess and replace bits.

One thing to remember though is just because something is "MOT legal" does not make it road legal, as your chances of outrunning the police on a 50cc are slim to none I'd check if it's road legal to not have mirrors..... just seems stupid to risk a ticket for the sake of a cheap set of mirrors. It may be fine I actually have no idea though as I can't think why anyone would want to not have mirrors!

http://www.motuk.com/bike/1-1.asp That is the manual if you read that and action it you won't fail

It looks decent (if the same one I just googled) I'd try and push them down a bit though by waving cash and pointing out it has gone down the road on it's right hand side. Racks and boxes are available for E models not sure on panniers, though universals would fit. I tend to strap stuff to the seat via the folding bungee hooks (secure enough to hold a papa johns XL pizza at triple figure speed for 12 miles) or pack out my enormous tank bag. Great bikes I bought my 400 as a super cheap hack after I killed 2nd gear on my prior bike, expected to dislike it now I love it enough I have bought a frame and am building one from ground up!

1. Would you consider buying a padded Kevlar shirt for use on roads: NO Crap idea. Have you seen Kevlar hoodies? They are too hot for the summer and not waterproof so shite in winter, on top of that they slide up in crashes so unless you have a cut or something on top they are pointless and if you have a leather cut on top they are pointless as you have leather on the body. Shirts and the like = fail for same reasons. I do wear Kevlar jeans and cargo's 99% of the time I ride but they don't suffer the same fails. 2. If so, what protection would you prefer: If I had too..... a decent layer of some kind of Aramid (Kevlar is a brand name) not pointlessly thick like draggin use though. Couple that with removable CE inserts 3. Would you like the shirt to be customisable (i.e patches, different prints, colours, names etc): NO If you belong to somewhere that needs patches you don't need to buy em from the guy that sold you a shirt. 4. How much would you be willing to pay for just a Kevlar lined shirt: B-all because I think it's a bad idea but if one was made as I described in question 2 and you put a rifle to my head and told me to buy if it was over £50 you can squeeze the trigger. 5. How much would you be willing to pay for a fully armoured and Kevlar lined shirt: As above... foam armour does not equal more money. 6. Sex: MALE 7. Type of bike ridden: Anything with 2 wheels and an engine though currently a sport tourer.