wr6133

I had maxxis supermaxx touring things on my zzr thought they took ages to get warm, seemed skittish in the wet and it was quite easy to spin up the rear. That said they were a little old when I got the bike. I put on Pilot Road and they are awesome, grip like mad, behave in all weather and they seem to hardly wear down. Pilot road 2, 3 &4 are all meant to be even better. Tyres last a while and are pretty important buy the best you can afford.

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/450px-Anarchist_flag_svg_zps1pglncsd.png Voting doesn't work, you simply alter the batch of pigs that get to feed at the trough. It's just a mechanism to fool people in to believing they are something more than a mindless wage slave, shuffling along a conveyer belt of exploitation as they expend their labour, enriching a few worthless slave masters at the top. I ride a Kwak if that helps your research

If you want a proper hard as hell to break chain look at Almax. There is a video somewhere online of Oxford chains being cut like butter in under 10 seconds. Then you need a quality lock to match it, also an immovable object to chain the bike too as people with a van will just pick it up otherwise and toss it in the van.

I have a Mio brand Car satnav I use on the bike. If you go on eBay there are lots of "factory reconditioned" satnavs being sold. I bought mine for almost 3/4 off retail price that way, came fully boxed, lifetime updates and appeared new. Pro's - it was cheap, it works Cons - can't really think of any, I suppose if I'm being really picky it is a little thin meaning I have to wedge something behind it in the yoke case to ensure the screen is up against the case. To attach it I use one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Yo ... 4d2640f205 Pro's - Cheap and it works (the cheap stem mount things are crap I tried them too), waterproof. Cons - flat to the yoke so you can't alter the angle, on my bike that means the sat nav sits just a tiny bit out of your view so you do need to move your head a little to look at it.

I've crashed in £30 "forceriders" (seller on ebay is zeez_clothing) and they held up fine. They do a camo cargo version I reviewed both the jeans and cargo here viewtopic.php?f=79&t=53529 I also have some Draggin Drayko Optix camo trousers. Thicker Kevlar but a lot less coverage. If I'm honest I'd rather crash in the cheap ones. reviewed them here viewtopic.php?f=79&t=53582

I eked 1000 or so extra miles from mine by cleaning them out with a homemade fork seal cleaning tool. They went from really leaking to lightly misting. This is the real tool http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seal-Mate-Too ... 1059312192 you can cut your own out of the flat side of a plastic milk bottle.

I'd go for the fag lighter socket over the tom tom thing you linked. The socket is more versatile (and cheaper), the other thing limits you to stuff using that 1 connector type. You can even get little USB adaptor things for the fag sockets. They are easy to fit, you can see one in the photo I posted earlier on the left bar, ugly but functional. I had planned to set it in the infill panel but got lazy. Wiring them up is simple, just lift the tank, run the wire along the side of the frame and connect up to battery, stick the tank, ensuring you leave enough slack in the wire to turn the bars full lock and jobs done. Or you can get all fancy and wire it in to something switched, again I didn't bother, unless you are the kind of guy that forgets to take his socks off before a shower you probably won't leave your satnav plugged in when the bike is off to kill the battery.

My old man has done the same thing with a JPEG I annotated for him to help him buy something on Amazon. My 90 odd year old gran is a legend though. She will watch Rugby on S4C (Welsh language channel) with English subtitles (she forgot how to speak Welsh properly before I was even born) but then if you ask her what is going on she will tell you she is watching a Western and proceed to take you through the plot of an old John Wayne film (with amazing accuracy, barring the fact it's not what she is watching). She also randomly gives people cheques thinking they are my brother and that it is his birthday.

The straps go round the yokes, then sort of back on themselves and behind the pouch. They have uber strong Velcro on them so after going back on themselves and behind they are velcro-ing to themselves. I often have a large satnav and a phone wedged behind it in the pouch and it is secure. It's the best cheap option I've tried, the cheap versions of stem mounts on eBay are terrible and I'm too stingy/broke/miserly/welsh to get one of the expensive ones.

I'd go with the comfort option, I'd reason with myself that on long journeys being uncomfortable can be a safety issue in itself.

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/IMG_20150126_124357_zps1ae13be6.jpg Available here £16. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Yo ... 4d2640f205

Pretty sure the CG original filter is actually a box not a cone. The colour of the plug will tell you if it's lean.

OP made a whole thread somewhere that mentions his baffle free bean can.

If you have a freer flowing exhaust or a cone type filter you would have needed to upjet the carb. If you didn't you will be running lean.

Is it a bit like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAb7DrgguyY (watch revs from around 15 seconds onward) If it is that was both coils breaking down and a dodgy HT lead (that visually appeared fine). HT leads are easy enough to test on a meter. Coils you can test on a meter but the results can be meaningless as they can test fine on the shelf but break down when hot.

Fuel tap set to off. I'd drain the carbs if I was doing it as well,

It'll be 4 little metal discs between the carbs and the inlet manifolds. Just do it yourself, easy job, carbs off, remove restrictors, carbs back on and happy days. Spend the money saved on petrol enjoying your new found power.

Full motocross armour on a road bike is overkill in extremis! I'd rather some comfort and the ability to clearly concentrate over being uncomfortable and having my movement limited. Kevlar can be better than cordura, depends on the construction of the garment. I've walked away from crashing in £30 Kevlar jeans, I own £160 Kevlar jeans I would not want to crash in! I've yet to see upper body stuff in Kevlar I'd want to use, I know a few people that wear the Kevlar hoodies and while the quality can't be faulted it's pretty clear looking at them that in a crash they will just ride up to your arm pits as you slide. Don't over think things textile works, my last crash I slid at around 35 Mph and the textile jacket I (had bought the day before ) was wearing ended up with a hole the size of a 20 pence piece, it was a reasonable quality Australian Bikers gear one, far from high end but not at the bottom of the budget bin and it saved my skin. I've also crashed in a very very cheap textile jacket that disintegrated (though arguably it did its job). and yes I crash a lot, I spent most of last year doing food delivery on a series of dangerously faulty bikes

If they are pushing enough to cause proper resistance then you probably have a piston that's not going back in properly. Along with your other front brake issues you sound like you need a proper overhaul, get that rounded screw out of the M/C, get the calliper off, find a youtube video on overhauling a brake calliper, do what the video shows then reassemble everything, fresh fluid, bleed it properly.

The brake micro switches are easy to locate. The front one will be under the lever, if you look around the lever and M/C area you will find a couple of wires connected to it somewhere..... there's your switch. The rear look around the pedal area for something that looks similar to this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZZR- ... 3cc3ba96d7

The brake light will be controlled by a switch for the front one and another for the back. Disconnect each switch in turn, if it goes off you found the dodgy switch. Is the front not turning because the pads are pushing on the disc? If not the wheel bearings may be shot. If it's the bearings find the size and spec and then just order some off eBay. Get the screw out of the M/C lid, replacing the whole thing because a screw is rounded is pretty ridiculous. I've had decent luck before now taking a flathead screwdriver placing it in on the screw and giving it a couple of sharp hammer blows, then just twisting the screw out like normal. The screws are often made of cheese so the couple of blows normally bites the driver in enough to turn it out.

Alpinestars do a textile trouser called "drystar express" which is designed for wearing stuff underneath without ruining what's under it. High quality as well. Here is a small review I wrote on them viewtopic.php?f=79&t=53531

If not in warranty I'd find the engine number to get the Chinese engine code (usually 3 numbers followed by 3 letters e.g. 157FMI) then go on eBay and see how much a working used lump is. If it's a common one they can cost peanuts (branding doesn't matter just match the code/type). Swap the engines to get working transport then if you feel like it at a later date open up the knackered one and have a go at diagnosing and fixing. Repairing the engines themselves on Chinese stuff can be a pain, sometimes the parts from what they copied fit but getting actual Chinese internals isn't always easy as the engines are so cheap in China they are basically seen as a single unit to be replaced if issues occur.

That sounds like an import, jap & US spec it's common to have a dual filament bulb in the indicators so they are always on as running lights. Does the indicator have a 3rd wire going in to it?

I had issues with the GPS "lagging" for want of a better word on both a Nexus 4 and a Lenovo A516. Mostly in urban areas.