oldie59

Try using something like WD40 with the straw attached, and get the spray as close to the cable/ lock mechanism as possible. Leave it for a few minutes to soak in then it should be possible to turn the key and remove the seat. You might have to repeat the process more than once though before it works.

Done!

If they had built tunnels under the railway tracks and bridges over them years ago instead of level crossings, then maybe these idiots wouldn't have been able to do this in Matlock Bath:- https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 3889,d.ZWU

Could just need a clean out (the brake shoes might also need roughing up a bit with emery cloth) or at the worst new brake shoes. It doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with the drum.

Take a look at this website http://www.dansmc.com/pistons.htm I think the 41/0.50mm, 42/0.75mm etc sizes are for oversize pistons and rings that you use after a rebore. I take it your bike is still using the standard piston and ring sizes? In which case you need to determine the size of these before ordering any

Glad you got it sorted

agreed, it's just the thought of anybody using a blowlamp to heat up the screws on the carb But the sparks from a cutting wheel on a dremel will be OK. ..... I would use a hacksaw if possible or just the blade to cut the slot

agreed, it's just the thought of anybody using a blowlamp to heat up the screws on the carb

Don't think using heat anywhere near a carb is a good idea personally, all those petrol fumes! Just soak the screw in WD40, leave it for a couple of hours to soak in then cut a slot slot in the head and use a flat head screwdriver.

I always go to the local Remembrance event

As it's a 2 stroke you should be able to remove the cylinder head and cylinder without having to worry about it too much as long as you don't move the piston from it's position. There is loads of info about this scooter online, including downloadable manuals

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... jqNbFodLFA Got mine already

Always take photo's before taking something apart for the first time, and lay the parts out in the order you take them off. When removing wheels, put the spacers and any other parts back onto the spindle as you remove them and replace the nut so that the parts can't fall off. Also when removing parts such as brake callipers or even cylinder heads where there are different size bolts make a simple cardboard template and put the bolts into it as you take them off, this will ensure you put them all back in the right order. It is also a good idea to refit the bolts when possible into the frame/engine so they don't get lost.

One reason amongst many why you should never buy a second hand helmet

Looking at his facebook page, there is some good work on there but how do we know he has not just lifted the photo's off someone else?

Maybe you should have asked to see samples of work they have already carried out before parting with your hard earned?

Name and shame them so others don't use that company and risk receiving the same service as you

I would force some glue into the hole using a small screwdriver which will seal the hole, then put some tyre selant such as Gloop into the tyre

I was being dragged round Asda as well and missed it but luckily we are going to Robinhood airport in June next year so should be able to see it in it'new home

Now I like the look of that method! One big syringe ordered, and I'll be giving it a go in the week when my new brake pads arrive. Don't forget to push the pistons back before you bleed the brakes and fit new pads, otherwise you may overfill the master cylinder

This "> is a far easier way to bleed brakes and clutches, or there are several other video's showing this method on Youtube

Have a look on Youtube, there are loads of instructional video's on there about rebuilding brake calipers. I don't know how to post a link to the site from my phone unfortunately, but I noticed at least one video for rebuilding the SV650 calipers. I have rebuilt them in the past and they are fairly easy to do. The parts and sometimes good quality calipers are available on Ebay.

Not even going to dignify that with a response... oh wait.. is my tail light working? It wouldn't be the first time or the last that it has been done

Try hitting the side of the screw head with a screwdriver and hammer enough to make a dent (from top to bottom), then try putting the tip of the screwdriver into the dent and tapping it anticlockwise with a hammer. This sometime works when all else fails.

Are you riding with the main beam switched on all the time, .this would blind other road users?