Ingah

Full bike test is something like £110 (c£80 for the practical, c£30 for the theory). If you pass. It's the training that costs the bulk of it, and that varies wildly. Your location may help recommendations - for example, if you're anywhere near Hinckley, then Hinckley Rider Training Scheme (a charity) will blow everyone else out the water for price. Older bikes it really depends on how well it's been looked after and how it's been used. And of course, a smaller or larger element of luck (depending on how good/thorough you are on checking over the bike and the person or company selling it). I bought a 14 year old bike that's been a nightmare ever since the day after i bought it, but equally others have dream old purchases on the cheap (like i fully expect the next owner of my meticulously-repaired bikes to have ) The performance figures given previously seem pretty standard for restricted bikes in general, not just Hornets. Having a full license won't make a huge difference to insurance premiums on it's own. 1 year NCB will (it's up to a 40% discount according to Money Saving Expert!) I'd expect insurance to be higher on a Hornet (its extremely powerful) than a CBR125 (slow). And higher also on a newer bike, especially for theft and/or comp quotes (i.e. your 08 CBR...) A 600 will cost you more money. The parts are more expensive. More petrol is used. More tax, tyre changes, carburettors to go wrong. Probably double all round, at least. The power though, is phenomenal - far more than double!

Probably a good idea to prevent casual tampering and casual theft/joyriding. Nothing more serious. But i would not leave a bike without any security on it... However, if i know how dumb they can be, you may find them setting it off on purpose If they do, you should probably replace it with an alarm system that has a 2-way keyfob (i.e. one that can be set to "silent" so only the keyfob goes off, not the bike alarm itself - so you know it's currently being messed with, but they don't get the noise to entertain them - just the flashing indicators). Alternatively, a very loud (painful) alarm will stop the idiocy in short order.

You aren't describing clutch slip on a 7 month old bike are you?

Priority order (best to worst): 1. Chain through the frame to an immovable object (as you're aware) - the bigger and better this chain is, the more effective it is. Additionally security in the form of an alarm recommended. Covered would be even better. Note: Disc locks can be used as a 2nd best to chains. An alarmed disc lock counts as both chain equivalent, and alarmed (as although physically easier to break off than a chain, i believe the alarmed element would take a little longer to disable than a bike alarm, to make up for that). So in absence of scenario 1...: 2. Chain through both wheels (maybe 2 separate ones to allow this), or equivalent. Alarm of some sort enabled . Bike covered. 3. Chain through rear wheel and shocks, or equivalent. Alarm of some sort enabled. Bike covered. 4. Chain through both wheels (maybe 2 separate ones to allow this), or equivalent. Alarm of some sort enabled . Bike not covered. 5. Chain through rear wheel and shocks, or equivalent. Alarm of some sort enabled. Bike not covered. 6. Chain through front wheel and shocks, or equivalent. Alarm of some sort enabled. Bike covered. 7. Chain through front wheel and shocks, or equivalent. Alarm of some sort enabled. Bike not covered. (e.g. of this is alarmed disc lock only). Note: I wouldn't be comfortable leaving a bike without an alarm to alert me to it moving, i suppose that would be option 8 and beyond... It should be apparent i see physical security as most important, followed by alarms (as you won't hear an attempted lift-into-the-van theft without one unless you happen to be very close), followed by covering/hiding the bike, and finally things like tagging which should not be relied on alone. Note: Front wheels are far quicker to remove (don't get me wrong, rear wheels alone can be removed FAST - it's just that by putting it through the shocks too it becomes slower). Note: Be very careful about relying on only one layer of security, as once it's bypassed, your bike is gone. Also note: The list above is purely as i believe and as level of security goes. Some of it is clearly more faff and effort and irritation, irrespective of how high or low on the priority list it is. For example, there are many times i'd happily use an alarmed disc lock only (if i owned one), despite it being at the bottom. Conversely, you won't find me doing option 2 (chain through both wheels, alarm and cover) often if ever! (although i happily use option 1, chain and alarm only, plenty). I'm likely to have made a mistake with the over-complex list above (sorry about that, i wanted to be reasonably thorough, although i decided against doing a comprehensive list lest i be here all night!), so expect edits and feel free to point out possible errors. Consider a stickered tagging system as it will complement any combination of security, i think AlphaDot is cheapest and therefore best.

Anyway, having done 20 miles on it today (testing), the clutch seems to be fine in use, and much of the extra resistance has gone. However, that said, even now when i turn that wheel, i can feel a fair amount of extra resistance that didn't used to be there with the clutch lever held in and i'm not sure whether to be concerned about it, or whether it's something that will go away as the friction plates etc bed in. In the end, it wasn't like this before... which makes me concerned. So it is perfectly normal to feel greatly increased resistance after a clutch change? (i was comparing it to how it used to feel doing the same before i changed the clutch as i've needed to do it on many occassions to sort out drum brakes etc). It wouldn't spin, you really had to force it to turn. To try to explain: Put it in neutral and it spins easily, next to no resistance. When in gear, and clutch lever is not pulled in, the wheel will turn about maybe 1/10th to 1/20th a revolution (i.e. a small way), and then *thunk* won't go any further unless you put a huge deal of force to overpower it (i.e. all's normal with that). When in gear, and the clutch lever is pulled in all the way, the wheel will turn (not so easily though) until it hits the same spot it would above - i.e. 1/10th to 1/20th of a revolution, and then it doesn't really want to turn, and more pressure than expect must be used to get it to overcome this partial barrier, and it will continue, but pressure must be used (Note: This is less severe resistance than before, where it needed to be forced hard all the way round but still noticeably different than before the clutch was changed. Also note: Clutch adjustment is not the issue, freeplay is correct).

Righty, took it apart, left the plates in the oil for a couple of days, found the thrust washer was in the wrong place, and this time properly aligned those tabs and pins up so the driven and driving gears are flush. It's now operating. However, the rear wheel (turning by hand to check it) isn't spinning nearly as freely as it should with the lever pulled in, irrespective of clutch adjustment. Almost like it's half on half off. In neutral it spins freely as i'd expect but with clutch in and in gear, especially in the lower gears, there is alot of resistance, which goes away in higher gears. Is this resistance going to go away when I use it or is it still broken? I don't want to start the engine to find out otherwise i'll need another gasket (and/or new engine depending on what i've messed up ). So what do you guys think?

Official dealer could be around double what it costs for an independant (i think Honda dealers tend to be £60/hr + VAT, and independents are often £30/hr + VAT, or less if you can find a one-man band). Personally, if i were looking to retain the value and prepared to pay extra to do so, i'd consider getting an independent garage to do it and stamp the book with their stamp. Sure, it might be worth slightly less to some buyers than the "official" stamp, but the amount that'd save over a few services should be far more than the "lost" value! (assuming you can find someone willing to pay more for full dealer service history, over full garage service history). Note: Using an independent garage with a qualified mechanic should not affect the warranty, whatever the dealers try to suggest! Better still (providing you're careful and thorough) home service it, and save a packet! Note: This may well void the warranty for whatever you've done if you're not a qualified mechanic, and will reduce the value, however, the amount of cash saved is far far greater. And if you do, KEEP THE RECEIPTS! (if you can keep it organised so it's easy for a buyer to see that it's all been done at the correct time they should be happy even if it's not done by a garage - i.e. mark the receipts for oils etc with the date, mileage etc, and try to buy all the bits together on one receipt and/or staple the receipts for 1 service together) "Full service history" is good enough for me, i can't see why people should pay much more for a second hand bike simply based on where it's been serviced (unless of course it's been serviced at a known "bad" garage), as a full service is a full service, no matter how many qualifications the mechanic has.

I coated each clutch plate in plenty of engine oil before putting them on. But when you say "soak" do you mean i should leave them in a tub of oil to "soak" or is "coating" them with oil enough? Because i didn't leave them to "soak" or anything, just sloshed oil over each one and made sure it covered both sides. So it's also possible that if i keep pumping the clutch for a few minutes it may start working? I'll try that too.

Before anyone starts thinking they're getting deja vu, please be aware i have posted this elsewhere too! Have calmed down abit now, but i think i'll copy the original in here so you can see my frustration in all it's restrained glory: Extremely annoyed, i know it's not my bike's fault that it's owner is mechanically quite inept, but it's supposed to be easy to work on! Having struggled with great difficulty, taken much time, and spent much money (on tools and parts) through the process of replacing my friction plates, plain plates, oil shaft seal and associated needle bearing, i've put the bike back together to find that the clutch now doesn't work at all Instinctively and in great frustation, i reached for my yellow pages to call someone out to do it for me, but in doing so i knocked a bank statement showing my out of control overdraft* and thus stayed my hand, resigning myself to another day tomorrow, undoing and re-doing, what i've already done (wrongly). To explain the problem, it's as though the primary drive etc is still connected to the engine i.e. the clutch won't work at all - the rear wheel won't turn unless it's in neutral, no matter what (i tried adjusting the engine side clutch adjusters to both extremes to check that this was definitely the case). Edit: However, it is worth noting that i can and do feel resistance on the lever when it's adjusted correctly (but the rear wheel still acts like the clutch is connected to the engine i.e. that rear wheel still don't turn). The clutch basket spun OK. when i was putting it back together... I wasn't 100% sure that i'd done step 27 of the Haynes correctly when re-assembling so could anyone tell me if that would result in the clutch not working? It's the only obvious thing i can think of. "27. Slide the clutch housing onto the sleeve of the input shaft, making sure that the teeth of the primary driven gear on the back of the housing engage fully with those of the primary drive gear, and that the pins on the oil pump drive sprocket engage with the slots on the back of the housing" (bold for the bit i'm not sure i did properly). I wasn't sure if i'd managed to get the clutch housing in all the way, because the driven gear on the back stuck out a tiny bit - it wasn't quite flush with the primary drive gear, despite much wiggling and pushing of the clutch housing, and also turning of the oil pump sprocket (as the Haynes manual indicated to do to get the pins and the slots to mesh). The clutch apparently is backwards in my bike (CB500). I've attached a page of workshop manual in PDF format to show the components and layout of the clutch (it's not the manual i used - i used a Haynes, but the picture is excellent to see). Note to admins: As it's just one page, can it be left up for a while so that people are able to help me? I'm hoping someone can tell me what i've likely stuffed up (probably a big ask as no one watched what i did, but maybe there's a common mistake that causes this?), and how to correct it with a minimum of additional stress. Also, as i haven't ran the bike at all yet, can i reuse the engine gasket or do i need another one? (i can't get away without another clutch nut as i've already staked the replacement, so i'll have to pick one up tomorrow before soldiering on). * = Not strictly true to actual events, but you get the idea. CB5 Clutch2.pdf Workshop manual clutch page 2, CB500

Yes, you can do that. Be careful though, some alarm/immobiliser combinations (for example, the advanced motorcycle alarm v3 on that site) are as easy to disable as unplugging them from the battery, which is usually trivially accessed by breaking the seat lock. I prefer it this way, because i use a good chain and it means a malfunctioning system won't strand me in the middle of nowhere (i can just unplug and ride), but you may prefer to take the risk for the added security. I warn you though, even a thoroughly-wired-in system can be disabled with thought/knowledge. I've even heard of them ripping off the indicator stalk and putting a power surge through the indicator wiring to go through the electrical system and trip the fuse on the immobiliser/alarm! (therefore disabling it).

You can't do your test on a 50. Source, DVLA: "The practical test must be taken on a bike of between 75 cc and 125 cc. There are two types of full motorcycle licence: * a light motorcycle licence (A1), which restricts riders to any bike up to 125 cc and a power output of 11 kW * a standard motorcycle licence (A), is obtained if the practical test is taken on a bike of over 120 cc but not more than 125 cc and capable of at least 100 kilometres per hour (km/h per hour).. After passing the standard motorcycle practical test, you will be restricted for two years to riding a bike of up to 25 kW and a power/weight ratio not exceeding 0.16 kW/kg. After this you may ride any size of bike." Just to clarify though, this is in theory - i.e. they're looking more at approved models of bike as ultimately a fatty on an unhealthy bike won't be able to do 100km/h. The unfair bit is in mod 1 when they demand acceleration for the swerve test. You're far more likely to be done for not making progress doing the DAS as those bikes are more than capable of the speed limit. Basically, i wouldn't worry, just twist the throttle to maximum, make it uber-obvious/exaggerated if you think it will help!

For you and your circumstances you must take the tests (i.e. Mod 1 and Mod 2) on a 125 capable of 62mph or more (in theory, not in practise - i.e. a "learner bike") To quote the DVLA: 25kW = about 33.5BHP. The power to weight ratio specified is to prevent people strapping a 25kW engine to something weighing little more than a bicycle to go insanely fast on what we all call the "restricted" (yet still "full") license. You can take the test on a 75-120cc bike BUT if you do you won't be given a proper license, you'll get an A1 type instead, which for all intents and purposes is useless to anyone that ever wants to ride a bigger bikes as an A1 license won't let you do that!

I haven't rebuilt the fork (i assume you mean do the jiggery-pokery inside it to make it new), because i can't open it? I've probably misunderstood... (and i can't work out how the spanner would work as leverage without slipping). Is there a way of doing this that doesn't involve (what sounds like a) bodge method? I'm quite happy to buy a tool if it means i don't have this problem again when it comes to doing my CB500's seals too.

So i've bought the tools required, dropped the oil (and put it in a container, it's only been in a couple of weeks and done a few hundred miles!), taken the springs (getting close to the service limit but still is life in them - so i'll be replacing them of course) and plate out, and got to the dreaded clutch nut, which has refused outright to come off with mole grips. So off i trotted and got a proper Halfords pro 27mm socket and a 3/8" to 1/2" drive converter so that it fits the thingymabob from my Halfords Pro socket set. And in typical fashion for my CB, this doesn't work either. I've tried putting the bike in both 1st and 6th gear, and putting my knee down hard on the rear brake. Even tried getting the girlfriend to sit on the bike and press it down hard for me. The manual also says i should unstake the nut with a punch first, so i put pressure down on the ring thing around the nut, and it wouldn't move at all (?). Maybe this doesn't matter? But in the end - no joy, the nut just will not come off. Anyone know a sure-fire way of it coming off? I would try heat, but i don't have power in the garage, and my patience with this bike's becoming limited, i need it working! Edit: Looking for the code for a clutch centre holding tool (07GMB-KT80100) on eBay comes up with nothing strangely enough, and my Honda dealer says they've been discontinued.

Head bearings are easy to check. Pop the bike on centre stand. Get someone to put their weight down on the back, which will lift the front wheel slightly off the ground. Ensure that they keep their weight on it, otherwise it'll be very difficult to feel any play! Turn the wheel from side to side slowly (do it a few times to be sure) - if your head bearings are done then then you'll feel a small notch in the middle (most travelled bit) - almost like it's slipping into a comfty spot (in actuality it's a groove worn into place by constant rubbing). It could also feel notchy on the turn. If either of these are the case, they need attention (and are probably MOT fail, unless the MOT is hooky ) Obviously ideal/good is when it moves smoothly through the entire travel. Also, are your forks doing their job properly? Get on the bike, apply front brake hard, and then push the bars forwards a few times, hard (they'll sink down into the forks). Are they going down and coming back up smoothly (good), or notchy (bad, probably MOT fail)?

+1. If i had to choose one or the other i'd choose textiles as they're far more versatile. Well fitted leathers will protect you better in the event of an off. Textiles will mean you're less likely to crash in the first place through discomfort! Both is best

Yes. To both. Acceleration wise, even a "lowly" learner 500 is stonking fast (for me, it was originally scary moving from the 125), compared to a 125. Just look at the performance stats of big bikes, they compare favourably to supercars! (compared to 125s that don't generally do all that well even against small budget cars). They're also far more stable / planted. Although technique does have a big part in stability in winds etc. However, running costs of big bikes are increased by a lot (depends much on what you go for though) - you pay for the power, although there is a healthy balance to be obtained - if you can bring yourself not to want that bit more power and sacrifice it

Ah, so pretty much "anything" (with the appropriate word on the label) will do then. Cheers

It's still slipping after adjusting it both sides and making sure there's enough freeplay This assumedly means i've slightly prematurely (there isn't a great deal left on the clutch side now anyway, i suppose) wrecked my clutch. Yay. How long can a slipping clutch be expected to last? Is it going to fail all of a sudden, or gradually (hopefully slowly) worsen until the bike is unrideablely slow? Been through Haynes, and it look like i need a load of new tools to do the job: punches/steel rods, block of wood, vernier caliper, "locking" compound, torque thingies (i forgot their name - but they're £50 in Halfords) and "suitable" sealant. As well as a new clutch nut, friction plates, possibly plain plates, clutch springs and gasket. And apparently while it's all open, there's a load of things to inspect too, that may or may not require replacement. I suppose this is what you get for buying an old, knackered, ex-riding school bike, then trying (and failing) to learn to wheelie on it Lesson learned the hard way Anyone happen to know what suitable "locking" compound and suitable "sealant" is?

I was under the impression Alpine Stars gear suited thin people. But then again, it's overpriced.

Cheers both, will do that.

Managed to win the auction for the brake disc you posted, for just £17 (well chuffed at that price), 5mm thickness according to the seller (apparently that's how thick they are to start according to external sources). Honda wanted ~£110 for a new disc! Next question - how do i undo the brake disc bolts (do i need a special tool / extender, like with the wheel axles?), IIRC the bolts are hex shaped heads, and i've tried to get one or two out for some other reason in the past, and found that they were way too tight to allow my allen key to turn them. Have also now noticed that my clutch is only halfway adjusted on the engine-side (i.e. there's another half to go ). For some reason i didn't think this was the case, so i guess it highlights the importance of checking! Is it possible the clutch could still be shot regardless, or is it only ever shot when its totally run out of freeplay?

Hence i wear ATGATT - although have previously slid down the road (in earlier less enlightened times) in normal jeans a couple of times and been OK, and so have others. Equally, i've seen some nasty pictures of blood raw "chicken legs" that were the unfortunate result of someone else going down the road in jeans - life being the lottery that it is. Just answering the question

They're hotter and make my legs sweat a little.

This is true. I was referring to a complete beginner - Your experiences as a driver will help somewhat. Despite this, it's worth asking how much you'll be charged to come back to finish it (if such additional costs matter to you) - as i've been increasingly hearing of what i feel are excessive charges for the "2nd day" (which is usually just a few hours).