XmisterIS

So any difference is just splitting hairs then? (boom boom!) As for the calipers and pads, I think they're the OEM ones, and they seem pretty good. It would also seem from the reviews that braided lines last a lot longer than rubber ones, which is another bonus. Anyway, I've ordered the two-line set-up because it's cheaper!

You need to boil them up with some chicken stock in a big pot for 10 hours. (I'll get me bowl coat ...)

I've gone for the two-line kit - I think it looks better, and anyway, according to Google search and Fozzie it seems that there is no difference in performance, and going from OEM rubber lines to braided steel lines will make the brakes a lot better and less prone to failure anyway! Also, it would seem that the brand I've gone for is the Dog's nads and has excellent reviews all over the place. Worth £80 I think!

Yep, thanks that does help. But what is the difference in feel between a two-line and three-line set-up on the front brake? I ask because the two-line kit is cheaper by £30.

Apart from the cost ... I am looking at getting braided steel lines to replace my rubber ones; what are the benefits of the so-called "racing" set-up - with two hoses on a double banjo bolt coming off the front master cylinder - rather that the standard one-hose off and Y-junction down at the front mud guard? What are the drawbacks? It will cost me £30 less to get the "racing" set-up, so I'm thinking of going for it just on cost alone. (£80 for front and rear Hel lines, vs. £109 for the standard set up).

Just a thought here, but Haynes reckons that brake line should be changed once every four years. I currently have the original lines fitted and the bike is four years old. If I do change them (which I am inclined to do - better safe than sorry, I think), what are the benefits of upgrading to braided steel lines? Never need to change them again? And what about brand? Are "hel" any good? There's a company found by Google that can supply Hel lines in any colour I like, just over £100 for the whole lot - if you want to find them search for "SV650 brake line kit" - they are the first link that comes up and they specialise in nothing but brake lines and clutch lines.

Well, when you put it like that ... I might as well have a go! I will look on youtube for videos too, they're always helpful. And when you say "seeing clear fluid come out", do you mean that to start with I'll see the old discoloured fluid first as the system flushes through, then the new, clear fluid?

I know how it is done in theory, but is it a big and laborious job? How easy is it to cock it up and have to start all over again? (e.g. getting air bubbles into the system by mistake).

£30 to £50 That's more than the price of a slap up meal for two, I think! Now I just need to find someone to slap and somewhere to eat ....

Lovely, thanks for the reassurance! I suddenly feel chuffed that I've been able to do a non-trivial thing to my bike, mechanicallywise! Well, it's probably trivial for some, but seeing as the most technical thing I've done to it so far has been adjusting the chain and keeping the tyres inflated, for me it's pretty technical! That being said, I've done it, it was OK (took me a while though), so I can attempt something else now - need to do a 15,000 mile service, I might attempt that (or some of it at least) myself. Out of interest, the chain and sprocket kit, with chain breaker, plus delivery, cost me £122 (because I went for the deluxe version of the chain and sprocket kit - VXGB, whatever that means!) and fitting it all did involve quite a bit of work (taking off back wheel, etc). It took me a couple of hours (three with tea breaks!), how long would it take a bike mechanic who does these things day in day out? And how much do you reckon I've saved in labour costs?

Well, I've done it, and it went 99% according to plan, there could be a problem, not sure though. The old chain and sprockets came off just fine and I fitted the new sprockets just fine. That part of the process went like a dream. Then came the fitting of the new chain ... Firstly, It was too long, so I had to take out a couple of links with the chain breaker tool (is that a problem?) Secondly, and this got me REALLY frustrated - almost to the point of crying - I set up the DID chain tool correctly, looking carefully and asking myself, "is it aligned correctly?", yep, no prob, double-check, definitely lined up correctly ... go to tighten it and BAM! it's skittered straight off the end of the rivet and it's burred up one outer edge of the rivet. DAMN!!! So, I re-centered it and tried again, this time it was OK, seemed to have centred itself, but when I backed off, it was off-centre. So I put it on the other rivet and set it in the correct position - now this tool is supposed to be self-centring, but try as I damn well might, it just *wouldn't* mushroom the head of the rivet evenly - both rivets are a little off-centre (but not much). You have *just* got no idea how frustrating it is to spend fully an hour, concentrating as hard as possible, to try to get those rivets to line up dead centre, but every time I tightened the chain tool, it skittered off-centre. Like I say, almost in tears with frustration and anger. The links are not binding, so is the off-centredness going to be problem? Should I push the soft links out, buy another soft link kit off EBay and start all over again, trying to get the f***ing tool correctly centred? EDIT: Pics below, but not clear, I couldn't get the camera to take a decent picture - first the chain tool, then the damn camera, I swear the f***ing thing is jinxed. http://www.flickr.com/photos/38625683@N06/6272433729/

I see - the torque setting for the nut, according to Haynes, is 145Nm - although according to the spec for the bike, the torque at the axle is 58Nm! I hope I don't snap or damage the chain ...

Ok will do. And for tightening, use the new chain and back brake, I assume? That won't damage the chain?

Ok, I will find out what an impact gun is! EDIT: Ooooo dear ... impact gun/wrench is expensive! I will have to stick to my hand wrenches and the torque wrench I'm afraid! The socket set is £22, that's all I want to spend. Also, I edited that post while you were replying - how do I stop the sprocket from rotating while I undo the nut? Put it in first gear?

The chain and sprokets have now arrived and ready to fit, I just need to go and buy a 1/2" socket set tomorrow from Halfrauds that goes up to 32mm for the locknut on the front sprocket. Anyway, the chain is covered in factory grease - should I wash that off by soaking the chain in parafin, and then lube the chain with my normal lube once I've fitted it? Or leave the factory grease on and then clean it as normal when it gets dirty? Also, I notice that when the front sprocket rotates, so does the locknut. This may sound like a silly question (bear with me, I am a chain-changing noob), but the most obvious thing to do would seem to be to put it into first gear to stop the sprocket from going round while I undo the nut - is this the right thing to do?

You can't de-restrict it, it's not restricted! It's giving you all it's got already! Pass test get big bike fuggetabout 125 ... simples.

As others have said, you need a longer lever - spanner and a length of pipe to increase the torque that you can apply. Also, do they not teach spelling and grammar at Uni anymore?! (coat ... gone ...)

http://www.strangekidsclub.com/wp-content/themes/community/images/logo.png

Lol! Seeing as I use it to make sure that my rear axe is at 100Nm after I've done adjusting the chain, I'll keep it one piece ...

Great stuff! Thanks.

a chain cutting tool just use an angle grinder to get the old chain off!! you wont find a place to split it as all the links are riveted and all look the same you don't use split links by the way as they come off and thats the last thing you want i hope that chain tool rivets chains too? So do I! I don't know, we will find out. It's one of these: http://www.dkmotorcycles.com/?section=s ... tting_tool I've never done a motorbike chain before, only ever a bicycle chain. It's all new to me! Anyway, the thing comes with instructions, which are here (it looks like it rivets the chain): http://www.dkmotorcycles.com/images/pro ... _Guide.JPG

I have a torque wrench like #1. Dead easy to use. Not sure quite how it works internally though!

I have an SV, it has just over 15K on the clock and it gets an oil change when it gets a full service, once a year. Never had any problems with it in the oil department!

Hmmm ... I've gone and ordered a chain cutting tool and a DID chain and sprocket kit (i went for the "deluxe" version because it was only an extra £20 more than the OE version). Anyway, I have looked over the entire length of my current chain, and I can't find anywhere a link to break .... why's that? Is it a magic chain?!

Excellent! Thanks!