jamessk98

Due to 2 project cars getting in the way of saving for another bike I'm having to sell my leathers before I have ever even used them. I bought them brand new from sportbikeshop about a year ago and have only test fit once or twice. I believe they are a size 44, will double check on the weekend. Was hoping for £750 as they are still brand new, location is Bristol/ Telford and am willing to deliver if needed (if close enough). Open to offers and of course will get photos of my actual leathers when I get home on this weekend Feel free to ask anything

jesussssss christ, luckily mine wasn't quite that bad

Oh okay, i was just wondering if there was anything i was missing. But on my bike the crank breather is just aimed out anywhere and isnt connected on the other end, cheers anyway

Yeah the tank coming has that tap. But if it's still not 100% then i will look further into the carb. Or even get a different second hand one, i can see the adjustment screws have been mangled so everything is most likely way off and god knows what else has been done to it or whatever. In terms of the oil, how does the petrol get to the crankcase? as wouldn't the only way be for it to go past the piston rings?

The fuel only ever leaked when the tank was being taken off. So, from the time the rubber pipes were taken off to it being upside down. During that time all that fuel just want all over me really and not the bike

I will have a read now about this, but my idle is pretty shocking from the start I have read it and some does relate. Only difference is that with mine no matter what it will go back up to 4000rpm, welllll it ranges between 3000-6000rpm. The choke did also work normally before. Also if I look down into the carb when I turn the engine off, it is very very wet and i can see fuel evaporate off it

I will have a read now about this, but my idle is pretty shocking from the start

Yeah I only paid £30 for the tank with a new fuel level sensor (my current one is broken too) and the diaphragm valve moboby thing. So not too bad, especially considering a whole new assembly is £60-70. I plan to replace it and go from there, as the choke moves freely as it always has done and that wasn't touched before the problem occurred. That is why I believe it is the problem and nothing else, but I'll replace it and see. I'll just have to wait till I'm back from uni and what is what.

But if it is operated by vacuum then surely when its not connected no fuel would come out? When I take the tank off, fuel pisses out of the top line of diaphragm with no vacuum

NO . There is a fuel metering device in the carb ( assuming this bike even has a carb and its not fuel injection ) consisting of a float and needle valve . A diaphragm in a fuel tap is operated by a vacuum from the carb intake . If a fuel tap diaphragm is damaged i.e it has a hole in it then it will not operate and you will get NO fuel. I'll tell you what , may i respectfully suggest that you get a Haynes manual called Motorcycle Basics and have a good read on what things are called, what they do and how they work . Once you understand the basic principles of things it will be easier to see what's wrong and put it right. I'm going to look at a parts list for this bike to see if it even has a petrol tap because there isn't one in your picture. There must be reserve function on this bike so it has to have a petrol tap . . Then why would 2 people from the motorcycle garage both have said it? I'm quoting from what they said, which was that one of the pipes go directly towards the cylinder. And if its broken and no fuel should be coming out, why is it pissing out more than ever?

Yeah I know, hence the diaphragm being broken and stuck open, pouring LOADS of fuel in. NO . There is a fuel metering device in the carb ( assuming this bike even has a carb and its not fuel injection ) consisting of a float and needle valve . A diaphragm in a fuel tap is operated by a vacuum from the carb intake . If a fuel tap diaphragm is damaged i.e it has a hole in it then it will not operate and you will get NO fuel. I'll tell you what , may i respectfully suggest that you get a Haynes manual called Motorcycle Basics and have a good read on what things are called, what they do and how they work . Once you understand the basic principles of things it will be easier to see what's wrong and put it right. I'm going to look at a parts list for this bike to see if it even has a petrol tap because there isn't one in your picture. There must be reserve function on this bike so it has to have a petrol tap . . And of course i know its not EFI, and it has no reserve tank. As you say the diaphragm is vacuum operated, it if it broken then the fuel will go through the carb and also what was the vacuum pipe, meaning more fuel will go in.

Yeah I know, hence the diaphragm being broken and stuck open, pouring LOADS of fuel in. NO . There is a fuel metering device in the carb ( assuming this bike even has a carb and its not fuel injection ) consisting of a float and needle valve . A diaphragm in a fuel tap is operated by a vacuum from the carb intake . If a fuel tap diaphragm is damaged i.e it has a hole in it then it will not operate and you will get NO fuel. I'll tell you what , may i respectfully suggest that you get a Haynes manual called Motorcycle Basics and have a good read on what things are called, what they do and how they work . Once you understand the basic principles of things it will be easier to see what's wrong and put it right. I'm going to look at a parts list for this bike to see if it even has a petrol tap because there isn't one in your picture. There must be reserve function on this bike so it has to have a petrol tap . . Then why would 2 people from the motorcycle garage both have said it? I'm quoting from what they said, which was that one of the pipes go directly to the cylinder. And if its broken and no fuel should be coming out, why is it pissing out more than ever?

well the tank was empty till the other day, i put in 5L of fresh fuel on monday. there was maybe 150ml left in the tank over christmas and whatever was left in the carb too.

yes the throttle is closing properly, and i know for a fact the diaphragm is broken as all of a sudden petrol pisses out of the tap unlike how a tiny bit would dribble out and that would be all. i assume its dumping loads of fuel but not too much to stop the running of the engine and enough to just have a high idle. It stopped running well all of a sudden after the lines had been put on the wrong pipes. I went to a garage and explained it to them and they agreed it would be the tap diaphragm. I do also know how an engine works btw.

I was thinking possibly, but the then it returns fine and is smooth. The idle was smooth at the start of the day and the throttle hadn't been touched or barely even moved

I should have mentioned but it has been sat for a few months. However it spits flames so surely an air leak will cause it to run lean right? The problem wasnt there before christmas, but is now and i havent even touched the carb It will spit flames if its running RICH, it's the un burnt fuel that's igniting. Yeah I know, hence the diaphragm being broken and stuck open, pouring LOADS of fuel in.

Yeah the diaphragm in the tap is the one that supposedly is broken now. So I ordered a second hand tank off ebay so i can use the tap off that.

Surely the throttle is on the bars, do you mean choke Sorry i was rushing with the reply ahah, now i look dumb as shite. I believe i have found what the problem is though, i believe the diaphragm is broken. I may or may not have accidentally swaped the lines the wrong way at one point See attachment.

How do you mean "in the throttle"? If into actual throttle body then all it suggests is you've sprayed carb cleaner into the carb if you spray onto carb and around joints (e.g. All the should be sealed places) and it don't affect it then nothing leaking and being sucked in. Leak would have to be inbetween throttle body and combustion chamber, basically it's allowing more air into combustion chamber as if throttle is open wider, normally that would not be sporadic as engine would just suck in as much air as it can get so would be over revving as soon as it fires up. It does sound more like a throttle cable sticking issue or choke (does it have cable driven choke on bars or is it on the carb itself?) I had first sprayed it on the rubbers where i thought the leak may be, then in the throttle itself to see what it would do. The throttle used to be on the handle bars, but for whatever reason the previous owner moved it under the seat, so no matter what i do to the handle bars it wont move. I pushed the choke all the way in so it wasnt on at all and not adding extra fuel. But if i pull on it, the engine bogs down and runs slower

Ok , but its an intake problem so its sucking IN unwanted air not blowing it out . Yeah but a leak could still cause the idle to fluctuate? The two issues might be unrelated, which is why I suggest it may be sticking open once it’s been opened up. I should have mentioned but it has been sat for a few months. However it spits flames so surely an air leak will cause it to run lean right? The problem wasnt there before christmas, but is now and i havent even touched the carb

I sprayed it on the joints of the throttle bodies to see if it bubbled, that’s what I was advised to do when I had a fluctuating idle anyway . I had also done that, was the first thing i did and nothing. I then took off the inlet rubbers, no cracks or anything

I sprayed carb cleaner, also highly flammable, and it just lowered the rpm

I sprayed some carb cleaning stuff in the throttle, and as i do that it bogs the engine down, what would this suggest? Also I just saw on the carb, from the previous owner, the other carb screws have been f**ked. so this may have something to do with the problem. Although I never had this problem mid december when I ran it last, and nothing has changed since, as far as i can think

I just had a wiggle while it ran and it didnt do anything. And the idle screw does work, but only before it goes above 4000rpm

I was thinking possibly that as its a bit f**ked as it is. However im not sure as it always has been f**ked and i had made sure it wasn't being pulled at all. I will have a second look though and put some wd40 on the cable too. But if it was the choke stuck open, would that not be all the time? as it only happens when i bring the engine speed above 4000, its a nice idle at 4000. Unlike below where it is all over the place. But obviously i dont want a 4000 rpm idle ahaha