Jevi

Sorted, new switchgear fitted starts now with a couple of pushes of the button. So now for sale

Might have found the problem. The starter switch was in peices when I opened the switch up. So a new one is on order

Finally got to test ride the bike last night. Started on the button with first press no bother. Rode off to take a turn around the estate and it ran great, accelerated no problem, kept forgetting to use back brake to slow down for the junctions so must have looked a right tit to the guy in the car following me as I hopped and bounced on the front wheel but I still had a big grin on my face. Everything was going well until I came to the last corner, dropped the revs to far in too high gear and stalled so pulled into the side and tried to restart the bike. Bike was still in gear but I had the clutch in so tried the starter again and killed it again - fuse popped so had to push the the thing halfway down the street to get back to my garage. So the new plan is to pull the ignition system apart and check through everything again with more emphasis on checking the switchgear is working properly and I've got nothing going to earth that shouldn't be. I will get to the bottom of this eventually.

I had the carb off the bike while I was cleaning it and wasn't paying attention when I was putting it back together. Still it got the thing running even if it was a bit faster than I was expecting

Think I've sorted it out, new plug cap, spark plug and cdi unit. Cleaned the carburetor and set the various mixture screws back to the basic settings. Fired up the bike and it was revving its nuts off, blipping the throttle had no effect so took the tank off again to check I hadn't trapped the cable - not the problem cos there was plenty slack. So I backtracked to the carburetor and found I'd fitted the bloody slide in back to front so it was running at full tilt. Turned it around, fired up the bike and bingo working fine I just needed to adjust the idle speed a bit to get it running properly. So I'll try a test ride tomorrow night then it'll be going back on the market.

Sorted the switch out, it needed forcing back into the housing before fitting the locking screw. I've spent the afternoon tracing out various circuits and checked through the ignition system. Coil, ignition cable and plug cap resistances are all within the values given in the Haynes manual and there is a spark which while not huge is a spark. Battery started to flag so it's now on charge and Ive opened the plug gap out to 31thou as it was a bit tight. I'll try it again once the battery is fully charged. I do appear to have lost bloody gear indicator bulbs for 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th years again. Yes I have got the plugs connected this time so I'll have to go back start again with the tests

Come across an unexpected new problem. The clutch lever switch should show open circuit with the lever in/out? This one shows open circuit in both positions, I've removed the switch from the housing and when you push the button in the switch works, there's a definite on/off but when I refitted it I'm back to square one. Does the clutch lever have some sort of raised point that acts like a cam on the switch because the one that's fitted seems to have a shiny area that looks like something has been rubbing. I've tried pushing the switch as far back as I could but it hasn't made any difference.

We must have a good one then cos the wire splices on this bike are formed by just twisting the wires together and soldering them before taping them together

I'll have to take a better look at the charging and ignition system's then

Finally had a chance to go over the boys bike. Went through all the circuits and found nothing untoward, checked the plug and found it black and wet so the thing is running rich and after cleaning the bike fired up first touch of the switch. Put everything back together and tried it again - nothing Bloody thing refused to start again and rather than flatten the battery I decided to give it up for the night. My latest query is if the thing is running rich and the plug is getting wet would this have any affect on the starting? Does the bike try to pull more power out of the battery to try and get a spark and if so could this cause the fuse to blow?

What a numpty! None of the bulbs had blown after all I hadn't pushed the connector block far enough in and I had the wrong resistance value set on the multimeter so the bulbs didn't register properly when I tried testing them. Anyhoo the bike started first time again ran okay as I tried different switches and turning the handlebars lock to lock. Switched off and tried it again blew the fuse after about 5 tries on the button So back to the drawing board. I'll get the tank off again so I can get to the connector blocks over the engine and check back to the starter relay and fuse from there

The boys bike is a Lexmoto Arizona and the gear change indicator is a standard part. The bulbs are rated 12v 1.7W Most of the bulbs were missing when we got the bike but I got replacements from Wemoto and everything was working fine till we took it to get mot'd and the b$+rd thing hasn't worked properly since. I've been trying to track down the why it's starting and running fine one minute then refusing to start 15mins later and blowing the main fuse. Things aren't being helped by the wire colours being totally different to every wiring diagram I've come across. Haynes are living upto their usual standard with their Chinese motorcycle manual where the wiring diagrams don't tell you bulb types/watttages and having to flick back and forward through the manual in order to find out how things come apart.

As the heading says, my question is what's the possible cause?

I'll go over it again when I get time. The bike had a 20amp fuse fitted when we got it and the spare on the back of the relay was the same. I couldn't go through all of the harness but there's a couple of spots where the tape has pulled off so I'll try them next.

I'll go over it again when I get time. The bike had a 20amp fuse fitted when we got it and the spare on the back of the relay was the same. I couldn't go through all of the harness but there's a couple of spots where the tape has pulled off so I'll try them next.