potatobroxd

How do you feel when other people take pics of your bike with you on it?

I personally don't care or mind but I have met some people that find it irritating?

Z900s are nice with the lowest seat height of the 900cc class.

With motorcycle boots I'm confident you can flatfoot the bike with ease + kawasaki sells the z900 restricted from factory

Id take the one with lower mileage since factors of maintenance and abusive use is unknown for both

10k on mine - love it. Small tank though - reserve kicks in at 80 miles, 100 to bingo. And seat is hard - comfort seat a deffo requirement for touring. So I'm sure there are better tourers. I don't have a screen or anything but I did 609 miles to Wales in 2 days and, seat aside, all was well. 20190818_100233.jpg

It's quite fast too.

Hows the engine heat during summer? Is it cooler than the inline 4s?

Ive recently adjusted my cb125f's valve clearence but I erred on the wider side (although still in spec). The bike sounds alright but I was wondering what a large valve clearence would sound like? Would it be noticeable?

Maybe its because tv commercials are dying

Great thread that perfectly demonstrates how people are surprisingly trusting of websites just because they have been shared by people they know and happily supply sensitive information without questioning where it's going.

From a infosec point of view it provides great insight into how to build a successful phishing site.

Its just your reg mate, wouldnt sweat about it too much since most people post it when selling their bikes anyway

I think you need to learn more about infosec... to get started, please provide me your credit card number and the 3 digits on the back [strikeout]for me to steal[/strikeout] for verification purposes

Hey I'm from the Reading area and ride a CB125F and none of my friends ride, would be great if i could join in (although im on Ls)

With these little beauties you can increase the safety of even the cheapest helmet . Sorted !

thanks for that, definitely removing mine now

My shiny black HJC is littered with 4 stickers on the back with 2 being certification stickers (ECE and UK certification) and they are an EYE SORE.

I dont know if removing it may be an offense or affect insurance claims in an event of a crash?

*i dont mind the ece as it blends pretty well but the yellow british motorcycle sport ACU approval is a proper eye sore, is the ECE sufficient on its own perhaps?

dunno how much the cbr weighs but me and my buddy managed to lift my cbf into the transit with our strength so dont stress if you dont have a ramp

oopsies, even the old plug has rough idle now

I think it might be my valve clearence, oh well, not looking forward to it

I changed the spark plugs back to the old ones and the RPMs are back to healthy range (1500). Checked the new spark plug and it seems to burn well.

The HT plug has to be new I assume as its a 2016 model. I dunno but I guessing the spark plug needs breaking in? If the problem persists ill probably just reorder another one to see if it runs differently

Changing the spark plug shouldn't make it run worse, is the HT plug on the spark plug fully, did you gap the plug before you installed it, I know they normally say they are gapped correctly but I'd always double check it anyway it may be off, failing that it could be the carb is slightly out of sync with the new plug?

Have you messed about with the carb recently?

 

Thanks for the response; its a fuel injected bike and I havent checked the gap of the new spark plug, I'll do that next thing tomorrow

 

It only takes a slight knock to move the electrode out of tolerance, so checking with a feeler gauge against the bike spec is a wise precaution. If you've still got the old plug, just out of interest measure the gap to see what it was before the change over.

The new spark plug is 0.8mm and the old one was .89mm (worn). The recommended gap is 0.8-0.9mm so technically its still within range? should i widen the gap slightly?

Changing the spark plug shouldn't make it run worse, is the HT plug on the spark plug fully, did you gap the plug before you installed it, I know they normally say they are gapped correctly but I'd always double check it anyway it may be off, failing that it could be the carb is slightly out of sync with the new plug?

Have you messed about with the carb recently?

Thanks for the response; its a fuel injected bike and I havent checked the gap of the new spark plug, I'll do that next thing tomorrow

I recently changed my spark plug on my cb125f (exact same type) and tightened it by manually (according to the manual 1/2 turb then remove it then tighten it 1/8 turn.

When the engine starts from cold, it idles at 1100-1200 rpm but really it should be around 1500 normally. The idling is also rough when cold. Once the engine is warm, it idles happily at 1500 or even slightly higher.

Is this because of how I tightened the spark plug or is it because of a faulty spark plug? Or is it like that when you just changed it?

i can get up to 70 (indicated) on flat on my cb125f but my 200 pound bud has trouble maintaining above 60 (hes 6'4)

honestly the best mod for these bikes is to chop your legs short or lose weight

Only had good experiences, if items were broken i couldnt care less as deliveries & returns are FREE

Im raising this question after seeing way too many riders wearing jackets with fashion trousers or jeans. Personally, if I only had the budget to choose either one, I would go for the jeans as it seems like your legs seem to be most exposed during a low-slide crash.

My personal ranking for gear priority is: (assuming full gear is not an option)

1. Helmet

2. Gloves

3. Trousers

4. Jacket

5. Boots

Would you guys agree?

Lowering the idle speed will do knack all to the air fuel ratio on any part of the rev range. All it will do is potentially provide slightly more engine braking.

You can have the engine remapped - you may need a new ECU for this... Before you do anything, have a look and see if your bike has a lambda/oxygen sensor. If it has then the fuelling should take care of itself i.e. run within safe parameters. This also may be why you noticed a difference in performance directly after fitting - the ECU was learning.

By 'fitting' are you referring to the exhaust or the power commander? If it is the former then do you mean that the ecu will adapt to the new air-fuel ratio from the new exhaust given that the bike is equipped with a oxygen sensor?

Throughly appreciate the response!

I've popped back in the dealership that help installed the exhaust for me for my Vulcan 650. He told me that he purposefully lowered the idle speed so the bike would run smoother (and richer?) after I complained that the exhaust made the bike run lean and very jittery (not smooth) and that the engine braking was WAYY too powerful.

So the result of lowering of the idle speed was: lower idle speed! and MUCH smoother throttle control and less engine braking, the bike feels so much better to ride

HOWEVER, the engine was not remapped and ecu was not flashed after exhaust installation, so would LOWERING the idle speed be an ALTERNATIVE to these processes? I've never heard of this method and is afraid that low idle speed may cause engine damage.

For reference:

Warm idle speed now: 1000

Warm recommended owners manual idle speed: 1250-1350

QUESTION: Why does this engine idle adjustment make the bike run smoother? Will it damage the engine? Thanks!

Turn the idle up!

 

Its a fuel injected bike, how should I do this?

 

Have you got the manual for it? The online version simply says to adjust the idle screw. If it's got a manual idle adjustment it's just a case of adjusting it by small increments.

Thanks, I found it! More details next thread

Turn the idle up!

 

Its a fuel injected bike, how should I do this?

 

You will have a little nob poking out (ooo err) from around the location of the throttle bodies normally on the right hand side of the bike

Just give it a little turn and when I say little I mean little!

I just popped back im the store and tuns out the dealership changed the idle speed using this nob to compensate for the lean condition of the exhaust? Seems very confusing to me, I'll explain the details in a new topic

Oil pressure won't be a problem - does it give you a solid idle without excessive vibration? I'm never keen on low idle where everything gets shaken about.

It's all normal, just sounds like the idle could be a bit higher

Turn the idle up!

Its a fuel injected bike, how should I do this?

I've recently installed a delkevic carbon exhaust on my Vulcan 650 and sounds WAYYYYY better than stock (or any other 650 parallel twin).

Although, I've noticed the idle being lower than the manual's guideline (although im not sure if it was due to the exhaust change as i cant remember the rpm prior to the change)

Warmed up RPM = 1000 exact

Warmed up RPM according to the Owner's Manual = 1250-1350

I dont know if this may cause low oil pressure to the engine?