Phill

I'm using Castrol Power 1 Racing 10-40w fully synthetic for motorbikes. The clutch engagement seems better and shifting gears are smoother. I mean the oil capacity is only 1 litre so it's not expensive to get the good stuff! . Don't get car engine oil, it's too slippery for the clutch and it has different detergents in the composition.

mine it's the mechanical version. I will try the easy fix, starting with the cable... the bike has like 12k miles, i think the cable is done, i'll have a look on ebay. There is a sign like that in the way to work, it usually says that i'm doing over 30 when the speedo is at ~35 .

I have one. i will try it tomorrow. The thing is that the bike over-reads anyways and now it seems to under-read. I will stick the phone out tomorrow and i will see if the speed is accurate.

I have noticed today that the speedo is reading less than the actual speed and the needle tends to wobble at low speeds under 30mph, and after 50 mph it doesn't wobble anymore but it feels as im doing a higher speed than the one which is showing. Usually at ~5000 rpm in 5th gear i'm having about 40mph and now the speedo reads 35 mph at the same rpm range, which is odd, what could be the problem? I don't want to have my speedo under-reading and getting nicked for speeding in 20-30mph zones The clutch doesn't slip, i'm pretty sure about that, when i give it the beans it pulls well, no slipping.

I had the same problem, when i bought my YBR, the bike was sorn-ed, not insured,(but mot'd) so i couldn't even take it on a spin in the cul-de-sac(sod's law comes in my mind). I did a full check on the bike in the garage(steering,suspension, sings of damage, frame, fluids,gears, levers, etc) started her up from cold, while listening for any weird noises, and listening the tick-over when the engine is warm, and then trying to start up the engine while it's warm(temperature sensors and stuff), and i've spent like 10 minutes sat on it. After that i've decided that it was the bike which i wanted, went home, sorted out the tax and insurance, went back 3 days later, and i did a quick test ride(just to make sure it doesn't stall/lose power or jumping out of gear), which was satisfactory(bike was tip top condition), handed the money and off i went. I think it depends if the owner did take care of the bike, i wouldn't take a bike before a test ride from a guy who doesn't have knowledge about bikes,service history or he didn't had the bike for a longer period of time(check V5), passing the bike quickly means potential problems with it. Generally you don't have any warranty buying privately, if you buy from a trader you have the trading standards to cover you(in some extent) or some sort of warranty.

It's funny when people overtake me on a single carriageway while doing 60, and half a mile down the road they're stuck in the queue(it's brilliant to know where the congestion hot spots are!) I just wave them goodbye while i'm filtering past them! . It doesn't happen that often to be tailgated while riding, when it happens i just light up my brake light with the rear brake and they back off, the issue is when i'm stopped at lights or junctions, they come really close and i usually look back at them over the shoulder so they know that it's a bit too close.

Just arrived from the test centre. Made my way(rode) to the test centre which was slap-bang in Oxford city centre, the building was under construction so I had to figure out how to enter the building. Once I've managed to get there I was greeted by the guy from the reception desk, who was very lovely, checked me in, instructed me to put all my gear and stuff in the locker, phone off. Then i went to the lady who instructed me to which computer I should be sitting. I sat down at the computer and after the practice and instruction screens the actual test commenced. After I've finished the test I went back to the guy who has checked me in and handed the certificate. He said 'look down the page' , it said that I have passed the test! . 49 out of 50 not bad I guess, and 68/75 for the hazard perception. The hazard perception was actually very easy, much much better on the big screen rather than on the phone! . I must have been very trigger happy on the test! hahah. Looking into booking the mod 1 and mod 2 in the near future! . thank you for all your support!

Thank you for your support! . So it's not that scary then. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Just booked my theory test on the 15th of may! Happy days!. Once I'll pass it I will book mod 1. I feel pretty confident about the theory test since I haven't failed the mock tests on the app which I bought for my phone to read/practice. I'm a bit concerned about the Hazard perception thing since the quality of the videos are a bit crap and they want you to click in a millisecond for the potential hazard!(I've failed on these ones) Jetfighter pilot reflexes? Lol. Any suggestions? It seems silly because I'm really good with my reflexes( cycling and mountain biking) but the videos are imposing a state of utter paranoia since everything can become a hazard. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

It didn't happen to me even tough sometimes i'm pulling the clutch while downshifting a couple of gears(without releasing the clutch) while braking for the junction... trying to save the chain and sprockets

When was the last oil change done? Degraded/old oil could cause problems in changing gears, my YBR wouldn't shift up(down in your case?) the gears properly after a while so i did an oil change and that fixed the issue. It's worth checking the cluch free-play. How many miles has the bike?

I'm thinking about getting LED front lights for my ybr, since the normal lights aren't powerful enough and I can't put 55w/60w car bulbs since it'll melt the plastic reflector... where did you buy them from? How will the electrical system will cope? Do you need modifications? Might swap the rear light aswell for a led. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Checked the bike all over, all the connections/plugs, made sure that they were securely connected, starting from the battery and working my way to every single connection that i could see, all of them were well connected, and then i went for a ride, no issues of losing power. i dont know what was the problem, electrical gremlins? i will keep an eye on it.

I did an oil change and the spark plug recently. I'll check the battery connection!

Hello there again. Yesterday on the way home from work the bike developed an interesting symptom of cutting out(loss of power) on my bike like you would roll off the throttle all the way back while i was cruising with 55-60 and the engine light flashed rapidly three or four times in succesion(can't tell exactly) and the power came back, i reckon the power was out for 1 second or so, it happened later on the commute again but it was for a shorter duration like a bump, again at cruising speed, but the engine light didn't flash. While accelerating it's fine and the idle is spot on, it happened only at high revs. i'm suspecting the side stand kill switch is sticking and the vibration of the engine/bumps/road is setting off the switch? i put the sidestand while in gear stationary and the engine light flashed in similar fashion, 4 fast flashes in a row. What do you think? Is the kill-switch on it's way out? I dont think it helps riding the bike even in the worst weather! Can wd40 be a temporary fix until i get a replacement?

I have textile jacket, textile gloves, winter/waterproof ones, the glove is coming on top of the textile jacket, no problems with the water ingress inside the glove, even in heavy rain!

the manual says 10w-40 so i went for 10w-40 castrol power 1 racing syntethic Saturday i will be busy!

The spark plug is pregapped at 0.7mm so it's alright. Happy days! Bike seems to run better. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Changing the spark plug has fixed the problem! The gap of the old spark plug was twice as big as the new one and corroded. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yeah just did that, the cap whick goes on the spak plug it's loose on the actual cable and it's moving, i can rotate the cap on the lead. I think it's knackered after 10k miles, I dont think it was changed ever. Hopefully today i can fix that and i will change the spark plug aswell, if i can find the parts at the local shop.

Good morning people. This morning I went to the bike to go to work, put the ignition on, pressed the button, the bike cranked over for longer than usual and fired up, being warm-ish the automatic choke wasn't on, while I was getting my gloves on the bike stalled all of the sudden. I've tried to restart the engine but the bike would just turn over but starting up after several attempts, when running the bike it coughs as seems to 'miss' some of the sparks even when using the throttle and then it'll die, no error code from the engine light, none that I've noticed. Petrol pump is whining, so it's working, there is petrol in the tank, oil ok, battery is strong. Had a look at the spark plug which seems to have better days(pic below). And the ht lead seems not to connect properly with the spark plug and when the bike is working if I fiddle with the lead it'll cut out. Could be the ht lead/spark plug? I need to go to work today lol. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I think i will change the oil every 2000 miles, just for my peace of mind, and it's only 1 litre of oil so it's not that expensive! Now the question is, 10W-40 semi-synthehic or syntethic motorcycle oil? Castrol Power 1(synthetic) has good reviews, or should i stick with semi-synthetics?

i have an YBR125 and the manual says that the oil change should be done every 3500 miles, since is my main machine to commute to work and back(30 miles round trip per day) on A roads(speeds of 50+), isn't that interval to far apart from each other? Should i change the oil sooner? like every 2000 miles?

My key seized in the barrel one day, and I barely took it out, I thought that I would take the whole barrel out lol. I've used some mo94 spray from muc-off and it's fine since. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yeah that's true . Topped up my brake fluid. There wasn't much to top up anyways, like 10 mls. The reservoir was actually very full despite of the 'low" reading on the window. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk