Phill

Today this happen. Is it fixable? The boots in question are RST tractech evo. The boots were used for 1 and a half years nearly every single day, in any weather, so I think that they lasted well. I'm not sure if Timpson's will be able to help...

What about insurance preiums? will they go down? Thinking to book myself a course.

I reply to you with great respect, I'm not into picking arguments for the sake of it but I see too many times, riders/drivers unwilling to cross solid white lines and causing unnecessary hold ups. It is quite legal to cross solid white lines under certain circumstances. This does not reflect the original post, just a separate but related comment. So that means that i can cross over the white line if there's a queue of traffic stationary and there are no cars coming from the opposite way, isn't it? EDIT: Only because i'm sitting in queue because of the white line whilst other bikers just whizz past way over the white line... make me feel a bit stupid.

On my commute there's a dual carriageway and there's a stop light, and 200 meters after it the speed goes from 50 to 70mph, if you catch the light red you can have a 'mini' drag race . Love those boy racers in 1.0 corsa's with drilled exhausts! The other day i went in Birmingham and on the way there i took the motorway, i don't understand the urge of car drivers accelerating from the middle lane when i'm clearly trying to overtake them on the right lane while doing ~80. I mean my fazer is no slouch but why?

Sound test: ">

It's good to know where vans like to sit to fish you out! Especially on the commute route. . I find myself being naughty sometimes, the bike has a good mid-range so a slight slip on the throttle the bike shoots off, even in top gear!

I've done it. Ordered the 450mm oval stainless steel silencer! I'm definetly gonna do a comparison stock vs. beowulf. Feeling like a kid at christmas

speaking of scorpion exhausts, at Coventry MotoFest i saw a MT-07 with a Scorpion de-cat system, which i have recorded coincidently: "> it sounds lush! it's very loud, the 'normal' slip on will not sound as loud. That's what the scorpion bloke said.

That's what I'm looking for, a nice deep tone. Just have to get it past my missus

My AA cover comes with the bank, so I just need my debit card! It covers me and my wife, so it doesn't matter how many cars/bikes you have or if you're a passenger in another car, its covered. It would have been way more expensive to buy breakdown cover for 2 bikes and a car separately. the bike has a toolkit which has all the necessary things for minor repairs/bodges to get you going. It has some assorted spanners, screwdrivers, spark plug socket, pliers, I have added zip ties, and a torch. The bike has spare fuses near the battery.

I'm thinking to buy a Beowulf exhaust for my Fazer, how is the build quality? £150 for a silencer + fittings its a good price. What about the sound? I heard that Beowulf's give a low tone sound?

I might try it because currently I'm using Nix-wax water reppelent, it's not was good, as in I have to reapply after riding 30 mins in the rain, I'm not impressed.

I had similar issues with my YBR(FI), cutting out for a fraction of a second and coming back. I suspect there was an issue with the ignition loom(igntion barrel) because since i have installed heated grips the problem vanished.

Check chain slack, a loose chain(way over the limit) will snatch when you roll the power on/off, next could be cush drivers, and/or TPS.

I nearly hit a pheasant last year while riding down a country lane, had to swerve at 50 mph to avoid him. His wings have brushed my lid. Thick buggers.

It's essential to check the service history(either part or full) and do the HPI check, and check that against the actual paperwork which you will have at hand, and against the bike(vin number, engine number), and look out for specific problems of the bike you have in mind. For example for my Fazer it's the 2nd gear disengagement under load, and the dreaded front sprocket nut coming loose and wrecking the output shaft. Good service records means that the owner has looked after the bike. The condition of the chain and tyres can tell how the bike was exploited(commuting, weekend blasts...). The only gripe with high mileage bikes is that selling them on will be a bit of a challenge, people in general avoid high mileage bikes and cars, and the rust/corrosion which you can't avoid when you're using the bike all year round.

I'm wondering if i will be affected by this, since i've passed my original driving test in Romania, and once i've moved in UK i have exchanged my drivers licence to the UK one, and there's a code in the B category marked (ROU). I am not sure if i will need the IDP to drive back home. But in the USA in some states it's legal to drive, like in Florida. In Virginia you're allowed to drive for 6 months on a IDP or foreign licence.

It definetly helps for your peace of mind, especially when you have to break in the bends(which you shouldn't in an ideal world). If the bike comes with it, it's a bonus!

I have found the reason why my the throttle tube was sticky, the throttle tube was jammed far too in on the handlebar, resulting the actual grips rubbing the ends of the handle bar, moving the whole assembly 2-3mm to the right solved the problem instantly(the garage has installed the heated grips, bad, bad!). There was no grease where the throttle tube spins and contacts the handlebar, i have put some lithium soap grease there liberally and on the cables, the throttle is effortless and snaps back in an instant. I have also sprayed some grease on the throttle body spring, just to keep that one in check. Happy days. [mention]fastbob[/mention] I bought one of these ones for around a fiver and on the motorway or steady speeds you can keep a steady throttle without effort. It lives under the seat now!

I have a similar problem after I had my heated grips installed on the 125. Hopefully today or tomorrow I'll have a look.

and make sure you're buying the 35w/35w(not the 55/60w for cars) motorcycle bulbs, the plastic reflector will melt otherwise

I have used normal oil and the white wax one, i much prefer the wax one for o-ring chains, once it's hardened on the chain(5-10 mins), it stays there, no mess, no rust, no problems, when you don't see the white stuff anymore, time to clean and re-apply! I have found that the other type of chain lube flings and creates a mess on the rear wheel, it gathers crap off the road, and it doesn't last as long(rust) The essential thing is that you NEED to clean and lube your chain every 2-3 weeks, or even weekly if youre stacking up miles or you're riding in wet conditions.

I'm not even filtering when there's a junction ahead, unless i can clearly see the side road so I can look out for emerging cars. On the other hand even when you're going straight on a single carriageway and there's a queue from the other way and people still do U-turns in front of you while you're doing 60. . Praise the R1 brakes!

The weather in the weekend was very nice! Went to H Cafe in Berinsfield with my missus!

Get a Fazer! They're nice! I like it!