Pete

Oh ar? Will that be in the 10 minute beer break after the plugs are done then

Sound like good boots to me mate. Size 13 ey? What a bummer! My brother's a 13 and dad's a 16 and it's a twat to get shoes that fit. These look like decent quality and it claims they're waterproof (though I'd imagine you wouldn't be able to stand in a pond to feed the ducks in them). Thumbs up from me for a decent budget boot

I'd just Google "buy SBS sintered street" (or if not Special Boat Service then else) and see what comes up cheapest. It'll be the same from all stockists right, I guess the only thing to change will be the cost?

Don't get EBC HH Sintered! All I've heard is bad things about EBC, from the pads never ever bedding in properly (the rear on my old GSX600F didn't bed in no matter what I tried for about 3000 miles until I sold the bike...constant squeaking at slow speeds) to dangerous vision blurring judder at the front end which I've heard a couple of people have had. Someone I know had the vision blurring judder and checked everything, checked the disc by fitting new ones...waste of money because that didn't fix it, god he checked everything until one day he changed the pads. Problem solved. Ferking EBC! STAY AWAY! I've heard plenty of good things about Carbone Lorraine and Ferodo. I don't think you can go far wrong with either of them. If it were me I'd be going for sintered pads and not organic as they tend to give better all round performance.

Isn't 12.3 a bit low for a battery? I replaced my last one when it got to about that level (not enough power to even start the bike let alone run heated grips) and currently (no pun intended!) I'm getting 12.8 on my new one EDIT: Just checked my Haynes and it says an uncharged battery is anything below 12.3V so if it were me I'd get that battery on a trickle charger fast!

I'm going to try this! Thanks Dan (and Stu for the in depth bit) !

When I took my exhaust in for repair the welder was going on about shearing exhaust studs off with the engine cold and you should warm the engine up first. That strikes me as odd to be honest, but thought I'd mention it (if Haynes doesn't tell you to then don't). Good point Frankie made about gaskets but glad you've got some. I put some gasket sealer in there as well when I do it but you'll be fine without that no doubt. Good luck with it, let us know how it goes.

Depends what the bike is, but I'd take off the exhaust cans before dropping the downpipes. It'll just make it easier to maneuver the downpipes out. Also, again depending on the bike you might not have to drain the coolant and take the radiator off. In my Haynes for the Blackbird it says to take the radiator off, but I found if I just took my time and displaced the radiator it was all OK. You just need to be careful you don't drop the downpipes onto the radiator because it's fragile. You'll be OK Josh, just keep refering to Haynes to make sure you're on the right track. Once you've done it you'll think it's simple

I know someone with a Nolan and he loves it. He's also got a Caberg Justissimo (like me) and although the Caberg is newer he still prefers the Nolan by far. As for Nolan having bluetooth and speakers, etc. there is an add on that goes in the left hand side of the helmet that provides bluetooth and speakers inside. Not sure about an MP3 socket, worth a check. The Nolan also has a visor, but it's not internal and it doesn't come all the way down.

Good job !

Yes 10W-30 is the oil. The Castrol bit is just a brand plug, it doesn't have to be them. You're probably right on the 1ltr thing. Have you tried it on different surfaces? I used to check my oil level in my garage but found out the ground isn't quite level so I now do it on the driveway. Weird but there we go. I'd be inclined to put a bit more oil in to get it to about the halfway mark then monitor the situation.

On a new bike you just shouldn't have to top it up. Best advice is to top it up and monitor it for the next few weeks. Check that the filter and oil plug are screwed down properly and look for leaks around them, you never know. Technically they've not done anything wrong in putting the minimum in, but I agree it is rather naughty!

Damn Matt, looks like you'll have to get rid of your seat. Bummer!

That's a good one para, that'll keep me laughing for days It's true that the stands cost a lot and real bargains might be few and far between...however, the people working on the stands MIGHT (and I stress that because it's a long shot) be stupid. When I worked there for a week for a company I used to work for I didn't have a clue how much some products were supposed to be (I was the company web designer and was just helping out) so I actually ended up selling stuff for less than cost price...oops! But the customers were very happy and the company was run by w**k shits anyway so I didn't mind!

Ah yes incidentally like Chris said it could be just the nature of the pad. I had EBC pads on the rear of my last bike and no matter what I tried they were forever squeaking, even after a few thousand miles! Apparently it's common with EBC sintered pads...so I don't use them anymore!

Nice one Rod Do you work for Wemoto?!

Sorry Colin did I say something that exasperated you? The guy's just asked for help and all we can do is offer ideas, it's up to him if he takes them or not. Good luck with it at the dealer's mate, I hope you get it sorted sharpish.

Nah you won't need to change it every 600 miles...but like you mentioned it may not have been changed even though they said it had. If it is oil perhaps it's clutch slip, either because of what's been said about clutch freeplay not being enough or wrong oil/fully synth. Make sure you put semi-synth in next time (unless the manual recommends otherwise). As for clicking noises I'd still be inclined to check for exhaust leaks. It's probably not the exhaust, but if it is at least you'll know and it's easy to check! A mechanical clicking noise can sometimes come from a small hole in the zorst. If it were me I'd get a big screw driver and do the stethoscope trick - run the bike for a bit so it's warm and idling nicely, then put the handle of a long screw driver to your ear and put the business end on to various parts of the engine. You'll be able to hear the inner workings and locate said clicking noise. Also try each exhaust downpipe (that's how I located my problem a while back!) but don't worry if you hear the valves tapping away. http://ed-thelen.org/1401Project/CT-1403Stethoscope-01-.jpg

J&S do heated grips for £40 all year round. Cheapest place I've ever found them

Hole in the exhaust?

Lots of things you can do - Check the pads to see if they're worn. Depending on the bike you should be able to do this with without taking them out (look for wear indicators. Some don't have wear indicators so see if there's plenty of meat on them) - If the pads have plenty of meat on them take them out, smear the BACK with a bit of copper slip/grease (this stuff). It could be that when you apply the brake the pad is vibing against the piston, putting copper grease there stops the vibing. - If the pads are relatively new they may not have bedded in properly. Take the pads out, sand them down until it's a nice level surface again. Reinstall the pads and go easy on them for 100 miles or so to bed them in. - If the pad surfaces are nice and level, there's grease on the back and there's plenty of meat left you can try sanding a 45 degree angle into the leading edge of the pad. The reason being that the pad could be vibing off the disc, or a bit of grit or debris could have become trapped. Sanding it at an angle stops the vibing. See, told you there's plenty you can try the first thing I'd do would be to check the wear. Second would be to copper slip the back of the pads.

That wasn't very nice about the spelling comments! Naughty bad man. I agree with what's been said about practising with some 'proper' clips on a DVD. What stedan said about borrowing off Vicki is a good idea. Or if you can't wait or feel like you want your own DVD then Halfords have a section on the motorcycle tests (nestled with the cars last time I looked!). I've still got my DVD and have lent it out to a few mates whilst doing their tests. I sometimes put it on if I'm ever so bored! I think people get worried about the hazard perception more than they need to. It's really quite simple but is usually explained in such a way that it sounds complicated. If you've been driving for a while then you'll already be aware (hopefully!) of what a hazard is, you just need to apply that to the video clips. Good luck with it and keep us all posted with how you get on

Yeah if it was in the thread about the spark plug remover tool don't worry about it, it's not common to run into the problem I'm having! It's just that on my bike the engine has been tipped forward a few degrees meaning it makes it tricky for me to get the spark plugs out. On most other bikes the sparks are straight forward enough to get at (and would be on mine if the bike came with the tool kit!), and on the SR you'll have no problem with a standard spark plug remover tool (your dad may have one lying about...I found two the other day that I didn't know I had!). That said I normally don't bother with a spark plug remover tool, I just use a socket set. I think you'll need: - For oil and filter change --> A decent set of spanners (well, you'll only need one, but having a decent set is good for future projects) or a wrench and socket to get oil plug out (again, buy a decent socket set - you'll forever be using it in future!). An oil filter removal tool (basically a massive socket that goes onto the wrench that you just bought ), or oil filter remover strap (loop of rubber that grips the oil filter). An oil funnel (has a filter at the top. Available at Tesco, Halfords, etc). A big (about 4ltr) tray to catch the oil...make sure it fits under your bike! - For air filter change --> a screwdriver - For spark plug change --> That socket set again! You might need an extension bar (a long piece of metal that means the socket can go deep into the spark plug hole by about 5 or 6cm) but that'll probably come in the set that you just got That's all there is to it. You can realistically get all that done in one day, even on your first go. Take it steady, keep referring to the manual if need be and have fun. If you're feeling a bit more ambitious then consider cleaning the carb(s), but get the other things done first and see how you go

Yeah but if you're in a rush (or CBA!) you ain't gonna dry it off! Plenty of waterproof materials about. eVent, Goretex, etc...don't think they'd be used on a bike cover though, but yes they do exist! EDIT: FOUND ONE http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Water-Resistant-B ... 986wt_1165 And another if you're a rich git what's got loads-a-wonga http://www.getgeared.co.uk/HELD_9003_Mo ... egory=-129

Whatever cover you get make sure it's breathable. If you don't get a breathable one then water will just stay inside...and rust your bike!