Pete

Oh yes sorry about the off mate (no it wasn't...but hope it helps!)

Looks like I came too late to the party on this one! I was going to say don't buy the Oxford Bone Dry for the reasons Dixie mentioned (I've also heard about them being as waterproof as a sieve from someone else as well so steer clear!)...but you didn't get it, so good. I was also going to say don't buy leather if you're planning on riding in the rain. Leather can never be fully waterproof...ever. But you've bought a leather jacket now however you did mention you wear waterproofs over the top so that shouldn't be a problem. As for the balaclava I'm with Frankie and don't wear one (mainly because I don't want to look like a separatist militant when I take my helmet off...though it would look cool with my aviators on). I tend to wear a thin neck tube for general riding. If it's really cold I wear a thin neck tube pulled up over my nose and a thicker fleece neck tube around my neck...If it's really REALLY damn cold I wear the two neck tubes and a thin beanie hat that I wear when I go running. The only thing you need to make sure is that if the weather's bad enough to warrant the thick fleece neck tube then it's probably bad enough to be wearing a thick jumper as well...in which case you need to check that your jacket will still zip all the way up without throttling you!

Maybe this is of some use to someone... ">

I don't have a commute, but I do sod off all 'round the country most weekends (staying at home's so boring!). If it's raining, tough! As for leathers in the rain, just go for textiles

(looks like Dan's already beaten me to it...) If you do go for a tank bag just get one that has separate compartments. My one has three that you can zip together - it's over a foot high if they're all full! - or you can just use the bottom one which is about a cm thick. The middle one would be great for a chain and a sandwich at about 10cm. I bought mine off ebay but it was being sold in Aldi the year before for about £15 quid...and it's just as waterproof as any of the expensive ones (yes it's been tested!). Alternatively (and this is what I'd go for, couldn't be bothered carrying a tank bag everywhere) try and find somewhere under the seat for it. Have you tried dropping it inside the cowlings? What bike do you have so we can come up with more ideas? Out of interest what lock did you go for? I'm super jealous as an Almax chain is on my list (come on xmas!!)!

Where was it you said you keep your bike at night again ? Like Dan said, anything is better than nothing. And like Matt said put a cover on it and chain it to something immovable. I've already got a chain, but would also like to upgrade to a 2m Almax, those babies are unbreakable (including bolt croppers - just blunts the jaws!).

I let the clutch out a little easier now just incase ive gone down one to many gears by mistake. You're both right. Engine braking happens on any bike, but yes Gareth it happens more on a two cylinder than a big 4 (2 pistons the size of you compared to 4 pistons the size of a bar of soap!). To avoid either let the throttle out slowly, or get into the habit of blipping the throttle on the way down the gears. As for lumpiness and popping Chris just do what people have suggested (although with most bikes if you're changing down too soon the exhaust will pop...usually at higher speeds though). Putting an in-line fuel filter in is a good idea, but that won't cure the problem yet (but it will go some way to stopping it in future). You may just have gummed up carbs. My first port of call would be Halfords to get a bottle of Redex (make sure you get the one for your type of engine, not diesel or fuel injected!) and chuck that through a couple of tank loads. People's opinions vary on whether Redex does any good but I've always had good results in the past. If the Redex goes some way to making it better but doesn't totally rectify it you might want to consider taking the carbs out and giving them a good clean by hand. It's not as hard as it sounds, but can be time consuming so make sure you have a nice workbench to sit at, a radio and a heater!

How about from Trafford Centre down past Mac and over the Cat & Fiddle?

I'll do it AND I'll bring a tent (just in case)!

Ey?! If you're going to be using it through winter then balls to the faux pas, get them on there! Suzuki use a lot of "standard" parts for all their bikes, including the bars so you won't have any bother fitting them. If anyone takes the piss, it's just because they're scared to go out mid-week or in the rain (i.e. solar powered riders)

Good on ya! An alarm is one of the things on my list. That and an Almax III or Almax IV chain. At the moment I'm OK because it's in a brick built garage, the only pheasible access is up the driveway...which has 3 cars on it every night. But I'd like the monster chain and preferably a Meta alarm as well, mainly for when I'm away. What alarm did you go for?

I agree with what Frankie has said. If they're a little bit too long and the bar end is catching just get a sharp knife (I used a cheap-o craft knife that has a long retractable blade. Short blades don't work so well) and just trim it down slightly until it's propa.

You been swiggin' at that cough medicine again Frankie me old spunker?

use the choke, when its up to temp take it off choke, see choke thread.... viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26551 Also Dan's point makes sense too. However if it's idling OK when warmed up then just leave the choke on longer.

For the test (when I did it anyway) it's: 1. Check BOTH mirrors 2. Indicate right 3. Right lifesaver 4. Position closer to centre of the road 5. Final lifesaver BEFORE turning in (not as you're turning in like some people!) I guess the reason you don't need to give a lifesaver before indicating is because you don't intend to move just yet. You give the lifesaver after the signal because the next thing is to move across.

So you can't fit the Oxford heated grips? What's the reason? Are they too long, too short, too big? Sounds weird to me. I'm in the process of making some muffs, so I'll let you know how easy that is (total material cost was £8 ). Having muffs would be great to cut out wind chill (which heated grips don't do for the tops of your hands)...but having both (like I'm doing ) is even better!

Sounds like a worn clutch to me mate. If the friction material on the clutch plates has worn dramatically then they'll just slip and in turn there'll be no power getting through to the back wheel. You can check them yourself if you're up for a laugh. If you've got a Haynes manual for your bike just follow that. One tip the Frankie gave me a while back when I checked my clutch plates and didn't want to drain the oil (this might not work on your bike, depends what side the clutch is on...has to be the right side, not left) was to put it on the side stand. Doing that makes the oil go to the other side of the bike and only a tiny girly dribble came out. Failing that, just get it to a mechanic and ask them to check the clutch.

I stand corrected! Mind you it doesn't mention sparks on the back these days...never the less I still only put it in the fuel and have seen improvements. Phil I've watched only 20 seconds of that video until I realised they're all octane boosters not fuel system cleaners. The octane boosters work fabulously if you're in a country such as India where you get about 3 octane (bit of an exageration!) compared to ours which is up in the 90s. True, octane boosters are pretty much useless in the UK. I shall now watch the rest of the video because I like Fifth gear

Remove sparks? Pour in a double measure? What's going on? Redex is a fuel additive, not to be chucked down the cylinders ! Or it doesn't say that on the back anyway. I've seen videos on YouTube of people pouring similar stuff into the engine and plumes of white smoke come out - "oh look at all that stuff coming out and how clean it will be" - is that not because it's just burning the fuel additive!? Also, if you chuck it down the spark plug hole then it'll bypass the carbs :? Personally I've never put it down the spark plug hole(s). I have used it many a time before though and it does seem to work. I usually chuck half a bottle into the petrol tank before I fill up (so it mixes nicely) and do the same on the next fill up. However...if you're not sure about just how gummed up the carbs may be it might be worth taking them out for inspection and giving them a proper spruce up with some carb cleaner spray. If they're gummed up then Redex will shift some of it, but may leave some stubborn bits behind that will only go with dedicated carb cleaner.

Not for me I'm afraid as I'll be biking to Athens at that time! However have a wicked time in Prague. I loved it when I was there. Never understood why everyone drives around with their headlights on in the middle of the summer though

Echoing what has been said - if you can get it checked then do. If you can't I think bite the bullet and get a new one. The protective part of the helmet is just polystyrene and is designed to crumble and take any impact. As soon as it's done that it's useless and won't protect a head if struck in that part (or surrounding parts I guess as the shockwave from an impact has nowhere to dissipate to). My feeling - sorry buddy but I'd get a new one.

I went out on both days Last night I went out to test the new heated grips. I stayed bone dry and it was a wonderfully clear and starry night

Oooooooh now I understand! Shame really as I spent all day fitting my grips today and just put them straight to the battery! No matter, I guess I can always change it at a later date. Incidentally I'm going to try and put a tutorial together for anyone else considering installing heated grips. Only thing is my nice camera died after the first couple of pics so had to use my phone camera...so may not post depending on quality!

Just looking around t'internet and people are saying things like connecting the grips to indicators, etc but I don't fancy the sound of that. I'd be worried the wire couldn't cope with the amount of current...maybe I'll just chuff it off and put it straight to the battery! Thoughts?

Gotcha, cheers. Does the neg - still have to be connected to the battery with the little round clip-thing? And how did you go about locating the ignition cable for the cigarette lighter, or was it on before you got the bike?