Pete

Oi, piss off! I happen to think the leather ones look really rather bloody fantastic!

If you don't have a tank pad you could scratch through the tank with your zip, spray yourself in petrol and the petrol could ignite then you'd die horribly..... ...(bad) jokes aside they're a good idea for what's been said - it stops your paint getting scratched. That's the only reason. I've just bought a Baglux leather tank cover for my bike, looks like this (mine is red to match my bike, don't know why you'd get a different colour, but each to their own!): http://www.rigsville.org.uk/photos/Lblackbird_3.jpg

Nothing new to add here but the clips people are talking about are jubilee clips (I got a pack from B&Q I think - just get the same sized ones as on the other side of the carb - on the inlet manifold). Good luck Jin, let us know how you get on!

I'll be going this year! Never been before mind so no hints and tips from me. Think I'm just gonna book tickets and make my way down!

Hahahahaa! Best one yet! I got a good neck thing for Christmas, think it was from TK Maxx. The make is Lowe Alpine, it's bloody great. Here's the one, mine's red: http://www.jackson-sports.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=958 Get to TK Maxx and see if they've got any, much better quality that cheapy stuff, but anything's better than nothing. Following on from what Colin said, I also wear a scarf over this if the weather's bad...which it is...so I do.

Personally I'd go for V system. I know Hein Gericke in Birmingham sell the E by the way - I was in there, saw it and went "ooo that looks nice..." read up on it and thought "nah!". Like you say it's just one more piece of "bar clutter". I trust the V system anyway as I've used it on two bikes so far and it's great, never had a problem. Why would I want to dick around with buttons and a dumb display when the point of a Scottoiler is to install it and forget about it for a few thousand miles?

Saw it here buddy: http://www.superbikeschool.co.uk/school ... -100510-BH I COULD do it on my bike, but having never done a track day before I'd most probably trash it quite a lot...and I don't have track approved leathers, just some farmer Joe Hein Gericke pants. Chuff me that's pricey, and just after Christmas too! I guess you're either rich, or...a Scrooge!

£732!?! HAHAHAHA!

Bike batteries are one of the most common problems on bikes. They've got a lot to deal with, and need to be space saving as well. However a good trickle charger should keep your battery in good nick for a much longer time than without one. If your battery has run totally flat DO NOT try and start the bike again until the trickle charger is happy. Wait for the OK from the green light. The difference between how a trickle charger charges and how the alternator charges is that the trickle charges very very very slowly gives the battery a charge, no problems with over heating or shocking the internal plates. The alternator will bollock the power straight at the plates very quickly and, while this might be OK for a couple of engine starts the plates won't hold their charge as well as they would after being trickle charged. As a general rule people say once a battery has been run completely flat it will never hold a full charge again. However many trickle chargers say they can bring batteries back from the dead (because the charge technique is different - see above paragraph). So basically you'll probably be OK, just give it time to charge it up, and don't try and turn it over until it's ready.

Did they look like this handsome pair? http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9a/Hairy_Armpits.jpg

+1 on the hand warmers! I got 2 packets

My old GSX600F (bandit engine) used to let me use a standard spark plug remover tool on it. I.e. one of these: http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/70916.jpg

Was going to suggest checking the fuse. Also agree with FRANKIE'S ideas

If you do take it out don't forget to put the rest of your bike into storage (i.e. drain fuel and oil) otherwise you'll have lots more work to get it running well again in the spring! If you definitely will not start the bike up until March the best thing for the battery is to charge it fully and keep it off the bike in the house somewhere. Personally I just keep mine on a trickle charger (mine's an Optimate 3, you can get an Optimate 4 now or an Oxford Oximiser - they all do the same thing) and that keeps it in tip top condition...but I use my bike regularly so taking the battery off isn't an option for me.

Its only got around 18'000 ish, although it has been thrown down a road at about 30mph Sounds silly but have you checked to make sure all the fairing screws and similar are tightened up? Or even taken the fairing off to make sure everything underneath is tightened, could even be something like a wire trapped somewhere. Just a thought...

'Kin 'ell. Oh well, could have been worse and I'm glad he's still smiling.

I couldn't make it this time, but I hope you all had a great time! What happened to Foz?

Could also be your cam chain tensioner. If that's broken then it won't be tensioning the cam chain properly enough which will cause the chain to rattle a bit until the engine warms up when the sound seems to die away. I'd also advise checking the oil level first though as that's easier (not that changing the CCT is hard, it's actually very easy but means buying a new one for about £40 whereas an oil check is free)!

Tightened it at both ends?

Yeah I have that problem too! Whip the lead out and then stuff it back in her...

Buy some of this Chris: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... hQQnFUg-9v You can probably get it cheaper than what Halfo is asking for, but it's a good product. You just spray it all over all parts of your brakes (try not to get it on paint though!) and it'll clean them up good and proper. If there is a bit of dirt trapped this should get rid of it. What Matt said about grit or something nasty getting on the pad surface is possible. I'd take the pads out to inspect them (and spray some of the brake cleaner on to clean them up anyway).

How do you know it's not the brakes?

Well you could just buy a new bike...... http://www.intomobile.com/2009/06/09/ip ... uster.html This guy seems to have done OK with a remote control mounted to the bars and the iPhone tucked away safely... http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=527592

I'm fitting some to my uncle's bike tomorrow, it'll be the 3rd pair I've ever fitted They are great and really do make a difference - I'm still riding in summer gloves, but think I'll make the switch to winter gloves next week (and I'll work harder at getting these DIY muffs sorted, Frankie )

Use both for best effect mate. Heated grips are great, but the tops of your hands will get cold. Bar muffs will take the wind chill away, and coupled with the heated grips they should hold some of the warmth inside.